Self oil burning

[1mouse3]

I doubt any machinist would have cut more then 4 if it would have cleaned up at 4. If he's any good, he'll make it work some way. Look into head saver shims if you have to.

The deck had a deep burn in the fire ring and I only wanted the max allowable cut for my part to work, this machinist was told several times this. The 6.9 went 15k mile with slight burn in the fire ring, so my assumption is did not have to be perfect but not as deep as was. I looked into those shims before and see there is a high chance for those to weep coolant, so dont really want to use those. They are finiky even on fe's from what I can find in that they need torqued down in 10 ft/lb incroments and a re-torqued check is needed short time after running. @CBRF3 says he has some marine pistons with a raised pin and for .020 over, so going to wait on those to be found. If this machinist is to make it right he best rebalance the rotating assembly free of charged.

 

[CBRF3]

The deck had a deep burn in the fire ring and I only wanted the max allowable cut for my part to work, this machinist was told several times this. The 6.9 went 15k mile with slight burn in the fire ring, so my assumption is did not have to be perfect but not as deep as was. I looked into those shims before and see there is a high chance for those to weep coolant, so dont really want to use those. They are finiky even on fe's from what I can find in that they need torqued down in 10 ft/lb incroments and a re-torqued check is needed short time after running. @CBRF3 says he has some marine pistons with a raised pin and for .020 over, so going to wait on those to be found. If this machinist is to make it right he best rebalance the rotating assembly free of charged.

I don't know how long it will be before can even make it to farm and try to find them and those pistons I have the forged marine ones I am not selling but I may have some of the federal mogul raised pin ones 0.020 over theyre about 0.010-0.015 raised pin for those ones theyre the factory style decompressed pistons as for the forged ones I am sorry but am not selling them as theyre very very rare and very very special as are the forged rods that go with them .

 

[1mouse3]

Well have took a ball honed to the block but 4 holes have deep roughness

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Dont know what happened on these two that have a fair bit of a ridge top and bottom, this is getting sent as is.

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It took some trial and error but found how to best use this. The process is push it down flush on a flat surface, force is not to be used and should slip on.

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Then should be able to just push it in the hole, dont tappy tappy.

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If that sleeve is not slipped on straight and tappy tappy is used, it will jam rings and will send you up $hit creek. I had jamed the oil ring on two doing it the wrong way, broke one trying to save it and got mad where chucked them in a box for latter where the second broke.

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So grabed two well used oil rings out the parts bin and those pistons went in the only two holes that took a hone.

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[CBRF3]

The cylinders look a bit rough but all in all seen worse and they still ran well and had good compression so I doubt you will have much issue looks to be alot of setting aka cylinder rust from setting and not being turned over. I like to really fog my motors if am going to let them set I use cylinder fogger for outboard two strokers if am going to let them set I take glow plugs out and then crank them via hand and fog the crap out of them then put glow plugs back in and let set then occasionally hand crank them over every year or so.

 

[1mouse3]

One by one I have gone through and cleaned the dirty grease out all the rod caps. then assembley goo along with torqued down. The squirters should have been reinstalled before this step, so a fishing expedition was taken.

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I also changed the main bearings for some not used but misstreated ones, they look to be an improvement minus the scratches that got smoothed out after this shot.

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[1mouse3]

Idle hands are the devil's playground.

I clame the devil made me do it.

I did take it easy on her this time.

I have found time here and there to get the 2nd to match the 1st head.

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Then took rolls to the ports to make them shinny and cleaned them so there ready to install.

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[Booyah45828]

If those bearings in the 2nd picture are what you're using, they're junk. I've used scotch brite to clean up burrs or discoloration on bearings, but never sand paper. The grit will embed into the bearing and wear out the crank. That's a tri-metal bearing and you're through the first layer of babbit and into the copper. Seeing the copper, I'd recommend getting new ones.

 

[1mouse3]

if those bearings in the 2nd picture are what you're using, they're junk.

The first is what Im using and second is what came out this engine im assembling. It was 800 grit paper I used on the first to clean sharp nicks. I only hope for a year at most of use out this engine, that would be 15k mile.

 

[Booyah45828]

The first is what Im using and second is what came out this engine im assembling

Okay, perfect then. I thought it was a before and after shot of the same bearings, with the after being what you "cleaned".

 

[Nero]

Yeah didn't you know? You gotta clean the bearings so they all show the copper look!

 

[1mouse3]

Advice was given and taken to check valve clearence...

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Gasket used is trash since stamped wrong and had to jam it on, other gets sacrificed on the next short block.

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So only one head is checked and going to gamble on the other, torqued to 90ft/lb.

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This is the outcome of this test and looks to be a pass since none fully crushed...

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Most was one on the end that only lost less than a third its size.

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[CBRF3]

Looking good

 

[Black dawg]

How can you check valve clearance without knowing the lifter isnt collapsing? I have used an adjustable pushrod to fully collapse the lifter before checking, otherwise??

 

[Black dawg]

I have never checked clearance in one of these though.......maybe the springs are light enough it doesnt collapse the lifter?

 

[1mouse3]

How can you check valve clearance without knowing the lifter isnt collapsing? I have used an adjustable pushrod to fully collapse the lifter before checking, otherwise??

I did not pull the lifters out so still had oil in them but did not think about that. I did recheck one that was half way to tdc after reinstall of the heads, it did collaps the lifter some this time but could move the valve for the full stroke of the lifter. Guess would be best to have a degree wheel and make that check at half way to tdc of every cylinder.


Edit: yea the test might not had been done right and should had pull apart spare lifters to fill them with washer so there soilid.