Self oil burning

[CBRF3]

What Im finding on them is the 88 ones are the 7.3 like I got from you. The early 6.9 would be the one with the bigger port and chamber, is a bit thinner and may have a difference in the head.

pre-cup 7.3-6.9

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The heads on the 6.9 have look to be the latter cups with the smaller throat, this is from when they were pulled for head gaskets.

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Kool I thought those were out of the 6.9 I built a replacement motor for a while back the head was bad a hair line crack between valves ( had a nasty overheat ) the owner of said truck neglected the previous motor badly and worked the living crap out of it he ran it out of oil on interstate at 75mph hauling a load of sand in a dump truck and rather than seize up it started knocking so bad it was scary and was scorching hot he gave me the block as it was destroyed so messed up a bore job and all bearings replaced would not fix it the block had cracks I was salvaging anything I could on it so I pulled the cups and that is why I had them they were still useable and good.

The motor I built didn't fail the one he had before failed due to his negligence and lack of maintenance and way he ran the thing he ran it like he stole it and didn't show any sign of care so you understand he couldn't find any of these in descent condition so I built him one and those cups came from his old motor I deemed them useable as these things are getting hard to find / get you have to salvage nearly anything you can to keep parts around.

Needless to say after i built him a motor and he had his bussiness on hold and had to use a rental vehicle ( price a dump truck weekly rental its insanse ) he then wised up and daily checks fluids on all his vehicles and does maintenance I built him a motor out of used parts i had just laying around and charged him nearly nothing but I had a stern rule i ever heard he was neglecting it or mistreating it i would never work on a single thing he owned nor would i help him with parts for 3 of his trucks running our motors. He had a heck of a time getting anyone to even offer to work on these motors and even fewer even knew these motors well enough to accept the work not even getting into some of the parts and theyre prices. He found out quickly neglecting these things would cost him alot of money / down time and it was better to keep them maintained as he priced new and used diesel trucks along with theyre requirements / maintenance / repair cost and found out quickly it was much cheaper to keep what he had and do the maintenance on them vs newer trucks injection system and DPF / DEF and such along with the dealership / shop repair costs our old IDI's in retrospect are cheap to keep going vs newer stuff if you can work on them yourself or got someone who knows them and how to work on them.

 

[1mouse3]

I picked up the part and was charged a arm and a leg. There is now a bore with a good hash with no questionable spots, so am satisfied with that. I did not get a chamfer tho, so droping piston in might fight me. Freeze plugs where pulled from the deck and one put below the thermostat, need to dig out a thermostat to check its depth.

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The power stroke rods are all balanced out to about the same weight and the new pin bushing are honed to fit the piston pin.

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With the the vin k single mass flywheel and balancer, the crank came true with welding a few drilled points full and grinding a single spot. This person kept complaining about the weight of the rods I gave him to work with, really the only added weight is mostly just the 7/16 vs the 3/8 bolts for vin k rods. Forged pistons will weigh more than cast, so this person will have to figer something out when comes time to take it back and not complain more about this being max balanced weight.

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[1mouse3]

the owner of said truck neglected the previous motor badly and worked the living crap out of it he ran it out of oil on interstate at 75mph hauling a load of sand in a dump truck and rather than seize up it started knocking so bad it was scary and was scorching hot he gave me the block as it was destroyed so messed up a bore job and all bearings replaced would not fix it the block had cracks I was salvaging anything I could on it so I pulled the cups and that is why I had them they were still useable and good.

I found with my 6.9 the oil gauge would dance around before it ran out of oil, its hard to keep oil in something with a 50mpg oil consumption making a long run. Yes I understand a need to keep tabs on fluids and should had done the valve guides when the heads where off. Old rusty wheel cylenders also weep fluid for drums and need to keep tabs on that as well, way out of adjustment they leak as well. Yea im seeing rare parts here where should not squander anything since is hard to find replacements. I see your desire to be a rodent packing away food for the winter. Looking back on stuff, I should had not put all my eggs in one basket. I should found another way to pay the bill over scraping that other 7.3 block I had. I got that core block for the heads that were cracked and in turn at a loss on it. Should had done the guides anyway and had a engine to pass time till the other is built. There is a 7.3 in the junk yard right now and think need to go grab that short block, so can throw something together with spare parts I have for now. Premium gas has gone up another dollar since last run I made, that was about~$160 in fuel. So its getting well past the point of viable to be driving the f100 getting 10mpg, the 6.9 was giving 16-17mpg.

 

[CBRF3]

I picked up the part and was charged a arm and a leg. There is now a bore with a good hash with no questionable spots, so am satisfied with that. I did not get a chamfer tho, so droping piston in might fight me. Freeze plugs where pulled from the deck and one put below the thermostat, need to dig out a thermostat to check its depth.

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The power stroke rods are all balanced out to about the same weight and the new pin bushing are honed to fit the piston pin.

You must be registered for see images attach

With the the vin k single mass flywheel and balancer, the crank came true with welding a few drilled points full and grinding a single spot. This person kept complaining about the weight of the rods I gave him to work with, really the only added weight is mostly just the 7/16 vs the 3/8 bolts for vin k rods. Forged pistons will weigh more than cast, so this person will have to figer something out when comes time to take it back and not complain more about this being max balanced weight.

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remember to drill out the bypass port on the thermostat housing and the block itself I believe was a 3/8 or so drill bit I used just be slow and easy if you don't do this you run into a few issues I found.

 

[CBRF3]

I found with my 6.9 the oil gauge would dance around before it ran out of oil, its hard to keep oil in something with a 50mpg oil consumption making a long run. Yes I understand a need to keep tabs on fluids and should had done the valve guides when the heads where off. Old rusty wheel cylenders also weep fluid for drums and need to keep tabs on that as well, way out of adjustment they leak as well. Yea im seeing rare parts here where should not squander anything since is hard to find replacements. I see your desire to be a rodent packing away food for the winter. Looking back on stuff, I should had not put all my eggs in one basket. I should found another way to pay the bill over scraping that other 7.3 block I had. I got that core block for the heads that were cracked and in turn at a loss on it. Should had done the guides anyway and had a engine to pass time till the other is built. There is a 7.3 in the junk yard right now and think need to go grab that short block, so can throw something together with spare parts I have for now. Premium gas has gone up another dollar since last run I made, that was about~$160 in fuel. So its getting well past the point of viable to be driving the f100 getting 10mpg, the 6.9 was giving 16-17mpg.

The crazy thing is the motor I was refering to he ran out of oil because not checking it for weeks at a time and well he hadn't done a oil change in forever he admitted around 2 yrs and he ran it nearly daily 5 days a week during all that time so he severely neglected it and it didn't leak oil but in 1 spot and it was minimal even after everything the motor was still nearly dry as a bone but when I opened it up man it was disgusting the sludge and such.

The motor I looked at a few weeks prior to everything going sideways ran solid 0 issues and purred like a kitten I was honestly impressed then things went and well I was very upset and then come to find out he had done same with the other 2 he had in his landscaping business keep in mind this was all in florida so his business ran all year long not seasonal.

 

[1mouse3]

The crazy thing is the motor I was refering to he ran out of oil because not checking it for weeks at a time and well he hadn't done a oil change in forever he admitted around 2 yrs and he ran it nearly daily 5 days a week during all that time

That oil must had been thin as water and back as tar. I would think there would be some serious build up in the engine that can block ports and have noisy lifters that barlly work. I have seen the out come of engines treated like that and they dont end well.

 

[CBRF3]

That oil must had been thin as water and back as tar. I would think there would be some serious build up in the engine that can block ports and have noisy lifters that barlly work. I have seen the out come of engines treated like that and they dont end well.

that was the crazy thing he ran delo400 which is my favorite oil for our motors the oil was thick from soot and not thinned out and it had some sludge but not to bad as for mileage I would say around 20+k miles on that oil it was disgusting but better than I expected given the issue our motors are known to use / burn oil so he was topping it off he did use the power stroke FL1995 oil filter which I believe all of this is why it was not insanely bad but it was bad in my eyes.

 

[1mouse3]

that was the crazy thing he ran delo400 which is my favorite oil for our motors the oil was thick from soot and not thinned out and it had some sludge but not to bad as for mileage I would say around 20+k miles on that oil it was disgusting but better than I expected given the issue our motors are known to use / burn oil so he was topping it off he did use the power stroke FL1995 oil filter which I believe all of this is why it was not insanely bad but it was bad in my eyes.

Interesting, looks like diesel dont suffer from buildup as bad a gas engines from poor oil change intervals as gas one do. The diesel engines I have been tending to would have thin oil if pushed past time of oil change. There was a ditch witch with a kubota that burned a lot of oil and was replaced, it just got a filter change ever so often.

 

[CBRF3]

Interesting, looks like diesel dont suffer from buildup as bad a gas engines from poor oil change intervals as gas one do. The diesel engines I have been tending to would have thin oil if pushed past time of oil change. There was a ditch witch with a kubota that burned a lot of oil and was replaced, it just got a filter change ever so often.

its bad to do the neglect of oil changes on diesel yes it thins out then it thickens due to soot loading as the detergents break down the soot becomes a issue and then it starts plugging things up if you have a large oil filter with a good filtration aka powerstroke FL1995 it takes longer before the bypass in the filter is triggered aka the filter has more holding capacity this is why that didn't kill it but running it out of oil did.

 

[1mouse3]

its bad to do the neglect of oil changes on diesel yes it thins out then it thickens due to soot loading as the detergents break down the soot becomes a issue and then it starts plugging things up if you have a large oil filter with a good filtration aka powerstroke FL1995 it takes longer before the bypass in the filter is triggered aka the filter has more holding capacity this is why that didn't kill it but running it out of oil did.

I see when there is ample filtration, issues of neglect dont show up quickly. I would think spending to much time in the thin oil state would wear down the bearing slowly and shorten the life of a engine over time. In turn with gas engines there is small filters and get to that bypass state faster, so why is more common to see sluge cake engines from neglect.

 

[CBRF3]

I see when there is ample filtration, issues of neglect dont show up quickly. I would think spending to much time in the thin oil state would wear down the bearing slowly and shorten the life of a engine over time. In turn with gas engines there is small filters and get to that bypass state faster, so why is more common to see sluge cake engines from neglect.

well our engines honestly with theyre capacity it takes longer to wear down the oil the issue is our engines are dirty and soot load the oil and plug the filters then you get the bypass issue hince why I use the motorcraft fl1995 and that huge oil bypass filter on the drivers fender of my truck I showed you in person. I use a wix 51749 bypass oil filter fed off the drivers side ear of the engine near clutch slave cylinder I put a restrictor in that fitting ( modified motorcycle keihn idle jet around a 40 size ) so the oil barely flows so lose minimum oil pressure then after the bypass I have a large transmission oil cooler it runs thru in front of radiator before returning into the motor via valve cover where i welded a 90degree 3/8 fitting for where it returns.

I have found a good oil in our motors don't thin much and well our motors are known to run well on straight 30wt oil as was factory spec for our motors good 15w-40 oil doesn't shear for quite a while like 10k+ miles and even then shears down to around 30wt on the top end when warm unless your having overheat issues then its a totally different thing and well when it shears to 30wt then it thickens back up due to soot loading the lifters / piston rings then start getting sticky and this is where most issues come from not actual wear due to lack of lubrication our engines are high volume low pressure oil systems so they compensate as the oil viscosity drops the volume goes up because it is easier to pump around the motor.

I find delo 400 one of best value oils out there and walmart super tech deisel oil is also very good for the price again our motors are not super finicky but the NOACK volatility number is critical due to having piston squirters and more than avg blowby our motors no matter what have a high blowby compared to modern engines and alot of the newer diesel oils are designed for newer engines not ours rotella changed theyre oil and now its hard to keep it in our motors rotella used to be a awesome oil for our engines now not so much due to the high consumption rate due to the NOACK volatility of it delo400 still has a high resistance to evaporation and such compared to rotella rotella literally is sucked thru the blowby system of our motors and drank like we drink coffee .

I want to point out my oil change interval is 10k-15k miles with the fl1995 main filter and my oil bypass filter using delo 400 and in that range I have to add around 1.5-2 gallons of oil due to leaks and such and keep in mind I run on used motor oil for fuel and I have sent crank oil samples out and I am just coming out of the good zone around 15k miles on my additive packages and such on delo400 and my filtration setup. I have tested this on one of my other trucks running straight diesel only and it made it to over 15k near 20k before additive package and such started going out of whack my oil viscosity was still within our engine factory spec on all tested setups I run this same setup of filtration on all my trucks.

Sludge caking is usually due to oils additive package broke down due to foreign solvents aka fuel or excessive heat our engines if done correctly and ran correctly run 180f-200f all day long mine with my cooling modifications and such runs low rpm around town 145f out on highway 180-195f and again 180f-195f when towing no matter how hard am pushing it have never seen over 200f and second I let off throttle within 60 seconds it drops below 180f and will set around 165f-170f for a long time before slowly dropping due to air going thru rad. This is becausae my coolant is bypassed mainly to radiator not back to water pump and my fan clutch is designed to keep it around 170f once it drops under this the fan clutch essentlially free spins yeah winter time got to cover radiator 1/2 way or more to get descent heat but in summer she runs nice and cool regardless of weight / load on it I have found this to be the big motor saver and oil saver keepping our motors kool and well oiled is what keeps them alive for long periods of time as you seen my truck has been worked nearly its entire life 1.25 million+ miles and is still running strong. The point is its only on its 3rd motor 1st one died early due to youth and young driver mentality 2nd nearly 980k miles on it and was wore out current one around 40k miles on it.

 

[1mouse3]

I acquired a 7.3 with standard bore so can use the na piston fitted with rings I have for now. My cart is occupied with another block, so had to get a 1 ton stand.

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[WrenchWhore]

you have a $500 "rebuilt" short block, what else did you expect?! I'd be going through the whole thing with that kind of attention to detail.

I agree. At this point you should get the book out and measure and make sure it wasn't just slapped together with hopes and dreams. I slapped a junkyard motor in my 91 Jeep and if I had just did a diggle ball hone and cheap set of rings (both of which I had) it wouldn't have been 50 psi low of compression across the board and getting almost half the mileage it got. That's a problem for future Aaron I guess...

 

[1mouse3]

I agree. At this point you should get the book out and measure and make sure it wasn't just slapped together with hopes and dreams. I slapped a junkyard motor in my 91 Jeep and if I had just did a diggle ball hone and cheap set of rings (both of which I had) it wouldn't have been 50 psi low of compression across the board and getting almost half the mileage it got. That's a problem for future Aaron I guess...

Those parts got thrown in a box and put up, I got .020 over turbo pistons and psd rods so the block could be done right. The issue now is that block may be .020 over but too much was cut off the deck, said no more than .004 and it was cut .012. So now have to wait on pistons with a rised pin in order for it too be assembled. So had to get another block to use parts I have to throw something together, I dont care if this engine has a sort life since is just ot pass time. Only going to hone it and throw new crank bearing in it without checking much else.

 

[Booyah45828]

I doubt any machinist would have cut more then 4 if it would have cleaned up at 4. If he's any good, he'll make it work some way. Look into head saver shims if you have to.