Seeping Head Gasket... What to do?

[84TD]

I installed some gauges today, made a quad gauge pod using the tech sticky instructions, pics to come on that. The lead on my temp was a little short so I installed it where the GP controller used to be before push button. I noticed some coolant and on the drivers side rear head gasket is seeping coolant out. I am going to keep an eye on it and prepare by getting everything ready for a head job. Should I be super worried? Anybody have a seep like this at the back of the head? How long did it last before it exploded?

So what all do I need?

Whats the best HG to use?
Whats the PN for the 6.9 studs?
Anything else to do while I am in there?? I am going to PM typ4 for a cam quote. If I am that deep in it may be worthwhile.

 

[icanfixall]

Nothing to really worry about just yet but something to watch closely too. As for best head gasket.... I can recommend the felpro or the victer rienz. Many will argue whats the best and I'm likeing the felpros I use. Just make very sure you clean off all the head and block surfaces down to metal. Sometimes a single edge razor works well. Never use a scotchbrite disc on an air powered grinder because they will remove metal as they clean. Yes, they do clean very well but taking off metal ruins the block and head. Russ may help with the head studs too and installing his cam during this kind of work makes good sence. Your that deep into it may as well do it then. Its best to remove the engine from the truck and place it on a stand. Then you can work on it much easier. Doing the oil cooler o-rings then is a good idea too..

 

[88 Ford]

I just looked on ARP's site and couldn't find the part number for the studs. They didn't have it listed anymore that I saw which was weird. Maybe someone else can see it.

 

[Optikalillushun]

Sle has a set of 6.9 studs for sale in the marketplace. There is also a very good thread a on this page or the next on doing headgaskets. I think ididriver made it.

 

[DragRag]

You could try screwing down the head bolts a little tighter. Cheap to free to try that before you do the gasket set. You have a common problem though.

 

[Diesel JD]

The ARP studs are on sale on ebay with the part #. I don't know if Russ sells these or only the 7.3 version. If you have any trouble I am friends with a dealer and we could probably figure it out.

 

[Ididriver]

If you really dont NEED to replace it yet as in it's not hurting anything I woulndt until it is a problem. I know I'm hating every second of replacing my right now.
I went to work on it the other day just looked at it shaked my head and went to a friends house. I had gotten fed up with it and didn't even wanna look at the truck.
It really is ALOT of work just getting to the point to pull the heads off.
Long story short....it's not easy nor fun like the turbo instal...

 

[Kevin 007]

84TD. The 6.9 was factory recommended to be brought back for a head re-torque at 30,000miles after leaving the lot. Most rigs never had this done and we are seeing the effects down the road with a good number of head gasket issues. Im sure some of them are caused or are partly caused by the lack of a re-torque. Its never too late to re-torque, I did a 7.3 at 350,000miles once. And my 84 will get it this spring when the weather warms up. The bolts always take another 1/2 turn or so. You must "crack" each bolt loose before applying torque as the bolts are kinda stuck in their spot and will give you a false reading if you try and torque it right off the bat.

Do them in sequence of course.

 

[Diesel JD]

84TD. The 6.9 was factory recommended to be brought back for a head re-torque at 30,000miles after leaving the lot. Most rigs never had this done and we are seeing the effects down the road with a good number of head gasket issues. Im sure some of them are caused or are partly caused by the lack of a re-torque. Its never too late to re-torque, I did a 7.3 at 350,000miles once. And my 84 will get it this spring when the weather warms up. The bolts always take another 1/2 turn or so. You must "crack" each bolt loose before applying torque as the bolts are kinda stuck in their spot and will give you a false reading if you try and torq it right off the bat.

Do them in sequence of course.

I have never heard this information. I'm not saying you're wrong as it sounds good in theory. Do you have sources for this? Most here recommend against it. A headgasket job is not minor. If you have all the parts, know what you're doing, and can work on that and nothing else it will take you two or three full working days, if you have other responsibilities such as a job or school it will take much longer, and will also take longer i you hit a snag. Alternately the job would not be bad at all on an engine stand but you should figure 6 hrs to pull and 6 to reinstall if you know what you're doing and longer if you're a novice or you hit a snag.

 

[84TD]

84TD. The 6.9 was factory recommended to be brought back for a head re-torque at 30,000miles after leaving the lot. Most rigs never had this done and we are seeing the effects down the road with a good number of head gasket issues. Im sure some of them are caused or are partly caused by the lack of a re-torque. Its never too late to re-torque, I did a 7.3 at 350,000miles once. And my 84 will get it this spring when the weather warms up. The bolts always take another 1/2 turn or so. You must "crack" each bolt loose before applying torque as the bolts are kinda stuck in their spot and will give you a false reading if you try and torque it right off the bat.

Do them in sequence of course.

I find this interesting as well. I do recall someone posting that hypermax recommends re-torqing the heads to a higher lb too after a turbo which I never did, I think maybe it was 115LB? I may do it this week since its just the cost of valve cover gaskets.

Give me your recommendations and I will do the re-torque this weekend, whats the ups and downs? I would like to at least make it to this summer so I am not freezing and doing HG!

Another thought is what is this zero pressure coolant I keep hearing about? Is that a good option?

 

[gonecrazyi]

Head gaskets arnt that bad. I can have a motor torn down in an hour and a half with hand tools. Quicker with air. That's taking my time. If it were a northern truck it may take a bit longer. Clean up and prep are what takes up the majority of the time. And fyi get a friend to help get the heads off.

Ask a few members I've met on the site. I just sit right next to the motor and pluck away lol. No stools for me.

 

[OLDBULL8]

I'll bet Mel Agne has forgotten about this article.

http://www.blueovaltrucks.com/tech/6_9-Turbo_install.htm

 

[Kevin 007]

I have never heard this information. I'm not saying you're wrong as it sounds good in theory. Do you have sources for this? Most here recommend against it. A headgasket job is not minor. If you have all the parts, know what you're doing, and can work on that and nothing else it will take you two or three full working days, if you have other responsibilities such as a job or school it will take much longer, and will also take longer i you hit a snag. Alternately the job would not be bad at all on an engine stand but you should figure 6 hrs to pull and 6 to reinstall if you know what you're doing and longer if you're a novice or you hit a snag.

This is ligit information but as much as I would like to give a source to which I have found this, I am unable to remember where exactly I got it from, sorry. But our head bolts will always take another 1/2 turn or so if not more upon re-torquing. Thats quite a bit!!! I have also see a few old 350 and 220 cummins motors and a couple E6 Macks which have head bolts that have stretched so much that you can see a film of oil/compression gasses at the head gasket expand and contract everytime that cylinder pressurizes. And the head bolts are almost loose as one goes to re-torque em. Scary and strange that they didn't completly blow a head gasket.

 

[Diesel JD]

I find this interesting as well. I do recall someone posting that hypermax recommends re-torqing the heads to a higher lb too after a turbo which I never did, I think maybe it was 115LB? I may do it this week since its just the cost of valve cover gaskets.

Give me your recommendations and I will do the re-torque this weekend, whats the ups and downs? I would like to at least make it to this summer so I am not freezing and doing HG!

Another thought is what is this zero pressure coolant I keep hearing about? Is that a good option?

I'm pretty sure 6.9 bolts will BREAK before 115 ft-lbs. If anything retorque to restore correct torque settings and maybe go +10 ft-lbs from there.

 

[Kevin 007]

Yeah don't torque to 115! The larger 7.3 bolts may be able to take it but I still wouldn't, not even with them. The last 7.3 that I did, the factory spec was 90 IIRC and upon re-torque; I took them to 100ft/lbs. I don't know the 6.9 head bolt spec off hand but to be safe I would not go more than about 5lbs over spec with them. They are quite small.

Another know culprit to head gasket failure on the rear cylinders is the CDR dumping a bunch of oil into those two cylinders as gravity directs almost all of the vapor into those cylinders instead of spreading it out. The extra heat produced by burning that extra oil (fuel) in those two cylinders is ******* gaskets. So maybe give your CDR a check + a head retorque and fingers crossed you might be fine. As I said, my 84 6.9 will be getting a re-torque this spring along with a road draft tube to eliminate the CDR. I just got the truck and im doing my best to keep it cool and hope I don't blow a gasket before I get a chance to do my work. again, fingers crossed.