Kevo1288
Full Access Member
Same with that fleetcharged coolant and its only 9.99 a gallon at runnings.
ADVANCED charges 17.99
ADVANCED charges 17.99
Rotella ELC, universal green, or...?
- Thread starter Cubey
- Start date
Ok, question: if the generic green for gassers is what you call dexcool/dexclone, why does Prestone make a seperate Dex-cool branded coolant in a grey bottle. Just marketing?
You can get 20% off at Advance with their always offered coupon for in store pickup. No "runnings" here. The 50/50 is badly overpriced as usual. The full strength is $21 before 20% off. 50/50 is fine if you want to just carry 1 gallon as a top off I guess.
Kevo1288
Full Access Member
I use advance for everything but fluids because all other non auto parts stores carry stuff way cheaper. Here its 17.99 full strength. However like I said runnings is 9.99.
It's not. The dexcool is ORANGE or possibly red. The generic green is not dexcool. Dexcool is an extended life coolant and green is the old style conventional.
The fleetcharge "SCA precharged" still should be monitored for SCA level. They do deplete over time.
There is actually a 25% off code for Advance auto that works for in store pickup. Heck yeah.
All the auto parts sites keep screaming that heavy duty/diesel/G-05 don't "fit" my truck and they suggest Prestone conventional greeen instead.
All the auto parts sites keep screaming that heavy duty/diesel/G-05 don't "fit" my truck and they suggest Prestone conventional greeen instead.
DrCharles
Full Access Member
How fast does the additive deplete... how often does it typically require checking?
And where do you get the test strips? I think they are specific to each particular additive package...
And where do you get the test strips? I think they are specific to each particular additive package...
How fast does the additive deplete... how often does it typically require checking?
And where do you get the test strips? I think they are specific to each particular additive package...
I've read at checking at oil changes is good enough.
Yes, each SCA maker sells their own test strips. Google the brand name and sca test strips (ie: fleetguard sca test strips)
I heard somewhere that yearly is ok for a check but that might be wrong. I really don't remember, and I know I'm overdue for a test....
I think there are only two primary additive combinations and I think I remember a universal test strip but I'll have to look it up again.
I think there are only two primary additive combinations and I think I remember a universal test strip but I'll have to look it up again.
On the subject of flushing solutions, I found this:
http://www.dieselmanor.com/fleetguard/CC2638.htm
1 gallon treats up to 10 gallons. Cheaper than Thermocure by half. I wonder if I can find it anywhere.
Does Pilot/Flying J carry such fluids?
http://www.dieselmanor.com/fleetguard/CC2638.htm
1 gallon treats up to 10 gallons. Cheaper than Thermocure by half. I wonder if I can find it anywhere.
Does Pilot/Flying J carry such fluids?
I don't know if they do but our local International truck dealer carries fleetguard products. Fleetguard is a division of Cummins. If you search for fleetguard, at the bottom of their website they have a link to find retailers.
Huh, the International dealer doesn't come up for fleetguard but does for "engine". The Mack and Kenworth dealers do though. Guess I'll call the closer of the two and see if they carry it.
Well just because OUR international dealer carries it doesn't mean they all do. I'm curious how you make out so let me know what you find. If they carry it near you and what they charge. I've actually been impressed by a few prices at the international dealer here. Other things.... impressed in a less positive way lol.
Oh and another thing I'd like to do while it's drained is install a coolant filter. From what I understand, it's kind of up for debate if it needs to be a bypass filter or not, but it's probably better if it is.
All this might culminate in needing a new radiator, if the crud is what's holding it together, but at least the water pump and engine will be cleaner. The fact that I think it got copper type radiator stop leak put in it tells me that I might need to budget for a new radiator after cleaning, flushing and filtering the system. I have seen copper particles floating in the radiator that looks like the copper stuff at Walmart, so yeah.
I might just go ahead and replace the radiator hoses too while it's drained. Better now than have a busted hose and lose $75 in coolant on the ground.
Last week, I saw a lady pulling into a parking lot with a cloud coming from her engine bay. Thankfully it was just steam from a blown hose, but she had to wait for a tow truck none the less. Years ago, a guy had that happen a ways ahead of me. I jumped out with my fire extinguisher thinking it was smoke. So yeah, that's no fun.
All this might culminate in needing a new radiator, if the crud is what's holding it together, but at least the water pump and engine will be cleaner. The fact that I think it got copper type radiator stop leak put in it tells me that I might need to budget for a new radiator after cleaning, flushing and filtering the system. I have seen copper particles floating in the radiator that looks like the copper stuff at Walmart, so yeah.
I might just go ahead and replace the radiator hoses too while it's drained. Better now than have a busted hose and lose $75 in coolant on the ground.
Last week, I saw a lady pulling into a parking lot with a cloud coming from her engine bay. Thankfully it was just steam from a blown hose, but she had to wait for a tow truck none the less. Years ago, a guy had that happen a ways ahead of me. I jumped out with my fire extinguisher thinking it was smoke. So yeah, that's no fun.
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