Replacing valve cover gasket tips?

[84F250diesel]

Replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 1984 6.9 IDI and got the cover and engine side all super clean and ready for the install including the bolt holes all blown clean too.

I’ve got new Fel-Pro black rubber gaskets for it (only ones avail from Fel-Pro for this engine) and want to know if I should install them 100% dry or do I put something on them for the install like a Permatex sealant or any RTV? The old black rubber ones that came off were very old and brittle but had nothing on them, leaked a lot, but they were very old.

Pics provided of what new gasket they are and my cover all cleaned and ready to install. The bolt holes on the engine side along the bottom are pretty close to the edge so wasn’t sure if RTV was needed around the bolt holes or not at least? Picture of it provided I circled the bolt hole in talking about in red.

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[WAID]

I just did it this week. It sounds like some people use RTV on the cover side, I gather mostly to hold the gasket on for install, but I didn't and found the tabs on the gasket worked fine to hold it on while I installed it. We'll see if I end up with leaks.

 

[Cracker]

I have always used copper coat, it is kinda like light duty spray adhesive on the rocker cover side. Keeps everything in place

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I install them dry, but I tighten them much tighter than the torque spec. The last time that I did this in my truck, the very front tab on the passenger's side gasket kept hitting the alternator pivot bolt and knocking the gasket loose from the valve cover. I ended up loosening the pivot bolt enough that the tab cleared.

 

[Ky85]

Just did mine

Tiny dab of rtv on cover->gasket side to hold in place.

No leaks after a few weeks

 

[Steven Sochalski]

I just redid mine. I used the victor reinz rubberized cork and installed dry. The tabs held it in place. I tightened to the recommended torque spec. I drove a 6 hour round trip a few days after and no leaks at all.

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