replacing carrier bearing please help

[HankHill]

I'm replacing the carrier bearing in my rig and bothe shaft u joints, I understand how to do u joints but have never replaced a carrier, truck is a 93 7.3l non turbo dually 4x4 e4od with 1356 borg, help is much appreciated, also there seems to be two different sizes of the bearing when I search for parts how do I know what I need?

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

I am a big fan of buying both and returning the one you don't use, but I believe the difference is the inside diameter of the bearing. I have always ver carefully cut the old one off with a die grinder, but I think you can also press them on and off.

 

[HankHill]

thank you for the response, I have no die but I figured I would use my 4 1/2 with cutoff wheel and cut it down where its almost cut through then use a chisel to split it? atleast this is what I heard someone had done and worked, but do you need a shop press to get the new bearing on?

 

[HankHill]

1.3780" and 1.57" are the different bearing ID's

 

[GenLightening]

thank you for the response, I have no die but I figured I would use my 4 1/2 with cutoff wheel and cut it down where its almost cut through then use a chisel to split it? atleast this is what I heard someone had done and worked, but do you need a shop press to get the new bearing on?

Cutoff wheel and clean up any rust/crap, then carefully tapping the new one into place.

 

[BioFarmer93]

I cleaned the shaft where it has to slide off first and then lubed it. Then I used an old dull screw driver & one tap at a time every 30 degrees or so around & around the perimeter to get it off. To put the new one on I found a piece of pipe that just fit over the shaft and squared up one end of it, re lubed the shaft and just tapped it on, easy as could be.

 

[HammerDown]

I cleaned the shaft where it has to slide off first and then lubed it. Then I used an old dull screw driver & one tap at a time every 30 degrees or so around & around the perimeter to get it off. To put the new one on I found a piece of pipe that just fit over the shaft and squared up one end of it, re lubed the shaft and just tapped it on, easy as could be.

Yup...I use a piece of metal fence post to tap mine on

And a cut-off wheel to remove the old one.

 

[Brimmstone]

Takes me about 10 minutes start to finish using a dull chisel in my air hammer to drive the old one off and install the new one.

 

[Black dawg]

x2 on the air hammer.

 

[international]

I replaced two of them. One on each truck in my sig. Both were the smaller diameter. I used a dull chisel, SMALL amount of heat and TONS of PB Blaster to remove and a piece of pipe to install.

 

[Brimmstone]

Once you do a few they become easy. I've only had one fight me and it was because some tool had tack welded the race to the shaft.

 

[HankHill]

hey guys, I ended up leaving the carrier bearing, because I kept messing with it and only saw about 3mm of play in it, when I move the drive shaft vertical and horizontal I thought it might be normal to have a little play in it but then again I heard there should be absolutely no play in it? can you guys clarify? I've been battling a 50mph -60mph vibration for the past few weeks, calipers/drums e brake are not hanging, rotors are ok, driveshaft joints are good, I had tuck aligned and all 6 wheels balanced at Ford dealer, I don't know what else to do? I'm thinking maybe motor or transmission mount now

 

[Agnem]

I think I would have done the carrier bearing anyway. Cutting the old one off is definitely the way to go. Whizzer wheel most of it through and then break it. You can use the inner sleeve from the old one to drive the new one on.