Black dawg
Registered User
Were the adjustable resistors (usually found underhood) used with these electric trailer brake controllers, or was there an earlier style of electric trailer brake controller?
Removing trailer brake/bleeding brakes
- Thread starter RSchanz
- Start date
RSchanz
Full Access Member
I think there might have been some confusion with my original question because there is a blue wire that also goes the brake controller. I was curious if anyone knew what the blue wire in the photo with the spade connector on it was because I'm assuming that one is a factory wire thats just always been unplugged since I've owned it.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
The fuse box is attached there with some small screws. Where is yours?
RSchanz
Full Access Member
Well... I replaced the master cylinder, brake booster and both front brake pads+calipers, bled the brakes and then went to start it and got nothing. The "Engine Temp" and "Water in Fuel" lights where on when I turned the key to the start position and nothing happened, no click sounds, nothing. The only electrical things I messed with were whatever connectors are at the brakes. Batteries are 12.22volts. Could it be a coincidence?
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onetonjohn
Full Access Member
While replacing everything sounds like you broke something.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
I updated what I actually did. Would have made sense but you would have had to read the whole thread too
onetonjohn
Full Access Member
I actually did. I was thinking, I too have an old hydrolic brake controller in the brown truck in my avatar. I wasn't tying to be a smart ass. Just saying, it worked before, now it doesn't. Maybe the brake controller was wired into ignition circuit somehow such that when you disconnected it, something doesn't have power or ground. Alternatively, perhaps you inadvertently knocked something lose or created a short. I don't know enough to tell you where to probe, but it probably time to bust out the volt meter or test light and try to sort out what's wrong, with an eye toward something in the area that you've been messing with. BTW: Nice truck. Looks like mine.
If you read your battery voltage correctly you need to charge your batterys as they are sitting at about 50% charged. Not saying you may have other issues but that would be a good place to start. Fully charged you should see 12.6-12.7 range.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
I wasn't offended you brought up a good point that I didn't mention exactly what I did.
I didn't actually disconnect the brake controller yet so all of that wiring is still in tact.
Agreed to this so I'll put a trickle charger on it, although I would think it would still at least get the starter to click, right?
If this truck was originally manual, then you have a clutch switch. You have to push the clutch in for it to crank? This switch is down under the dash, maybe you knocked it loose or a wire to it loose.
If you want a sanity check, MAKE SURE YOU ARE IN NEUTRAL, go out and short the small terminal on the starter relay on the fender to the battery +. It should crank over. If you turn the key to run and let the glow plugs do their thing, and leave the key in run and go out and put the jumper in place, it may actually start and run.
If all that works I really would suspect the red/blue wiring to the clutch switch. Or the switch itself.
If you want a sanity check, MAKE SURE YOU ARE IN NEUTRAL, go out and short the small terminal on the starter relay on the fender to the battery +. It should crank over. If you turn the key to run and let the glow plugs do their thing, and leave the key in run and go out and put the jumper in place, it may actually start and run.
If all that works I really would suspect the red/blue wiring to the clutch switch. Or the switch itself.
P.S. This would be a coincidence. But if you have a tilt column, there is a piece in there that commonly breaks, called the ignition switch actuator. If it breaks, the key will turn enough to activate everything, but not far enough to kick the ignition switch into start. Common problem, but you did not have this problem before, so I would not suspect it at first.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
I can't answer that with certainty because out of habit I always push the clutch in to start. Any idea what that switch looks like? I had to hammer pretty ******* the brake booster to get it to come off the truck so I easily could have rattled something loose. I wouldnt have considered this to be any more turbulent than a pothole but who knows.
As for the "small terminal" on the start relay, could that just be either of the smaller terminals and what do you recommend shorting it with? A wire? If so, what gauge? The stock glow plug relay has been bypassed so its manual now.
The small terminal that has a red wire with a blue stripe. Does that sound familiar? Yes, that is the same red/with blue stripe that will be at the clutch switch. Jump it with a small wire, 16 gauge or whatever will do.
Here is a picture of the clutch switch for 1986.
Here is a picture of the clutch switch for 1986.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
All you have to do is put power to the small terminal on the solenoid.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
The trickle charger was charging hilariously slow... so I gave up and tried again. Prepared for it to not start but thinking why not I pushed the clutch in and the starter turned. Because I hadn't warmed the glow plugs, I let off, warmed glow plugs then it didn't work, tried again and it worked! So, I think it must be related to this clutch wire. When you referenced that red wire with blue on the starter solenoid. That runs all the way down to the clutch right? So in other words to test it I should get the test light lit when the clutch is pressed in?
On the main note, the brakes work! I'm not stopping on a dime but I never was. I trust them and think I'm in a good place, thanks for the help.
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