O'reilly has the vacuum pump and AC hoses/gauges as "free" rental tools.
Recommendations for AC coolant.
- Thread starter Selahdoor
- Start date
O'reilly has the vacuum pump and AC hoses/gauges as "free" rental tools.
I don't see why not, if you REALLY wanted to be stingy, the adapter fittings just unscrew and if I recall correctly the way they fit you wouldn't break the seal either.
And then there's crap like this.....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013DQBCQ...imm_DFE2R65TWH1ACCY99VE1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ballharderrryday
Registered User
My A/C was struggling last month. I added one of the refrigerant cans, changed out the blower motor and the blower motor resistor - now it blows ice cold!
Tod Rockstead
Registered User
I've found that the cheapest way to go with A/C is to perform any physical repairs to you system TO SAVE BIG ON LABOR FEE'S. Whether its the A/C pump or just a line or condenser. Next reassemble whatever you needed to remove to gain access to the A/C and take it to A A/C service center. Here is the reason why: If any contaminants are in the system, adding a can of refrigerant is just wasting that money & will yield less than superior results. A service person will evacuate any remnants of old refrigerant and oils & contaminants out of your sealed system and also they pull a vacuum on your A/C system to see if its sealed or if it has leaks. If your system does have leaks the service person can pressurize your A/C with a fluorescent dye that's easy to spot and aids in locating any other repairs. If your system holds the vacuum without bleeding it off they will use the vacuum that they tested the system with to pull the Freon back into your system and there by charging the A/C. As long as all repairs are completed the whole process takes about a little over an hour and cost varies but expect to pay a little more than $100. This yields superior results every time.
1986 FORD F250 XLT 4X4 AUTO 6.9 L W/TH BANKS SIDEWINDER TURBO & BANKS EXHAUST
1986 FORD F250 XLT 4X4 AUTO 6.9 L W/TH BANKS SIDEWINDER TURBO & BANKS EXHAUST
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I have those little glass things in the corner of eacb window and some plastic vents by my feet. No fluid needed. Comfort changes with speed.
I have roof ac that still works on the RV but it means using about 1/2 gallon of gasoline per hour for the genset.
Mostly I chase cooler temps so I don't need ac much though. I have a 12v fan bolted up by the rear view mirror for times I need a breeze in my face, since the van chassis engine (dog house cover) tends to increase the inside temp by 10-15*F even with the windows down. If it's 80 degrees on a day I'm driving far on the highway, it gets it up into the mid 90s inside despite the ventilation.
Well I'm out west right now (was in AZ/NV now in UT) so it's not very humid. Fans work well to help stay cooler at least if it gets hot inside. It takes a while to get the heat out without running the AC, unless it's very windy and I get enough of a draft coming through. But that applies to any amount of heat build up. If it gets 80-85 outside when simply parked in the sun, it can get 90-95 in here even with a big roof vent fan turned on and windows open.
I did get a used screen door and put it on last week, making it fit despite it being too short, (I used some leftover shower wall plastic at the top to fill in the gap) so at least I have that now for better ventilation when parked. The original was removed and the built in hinges destroyed (cut off) by a past owner. I had to get newer replacement hinges and hack the door frame to make them fit. The things a lot of people do to RVs to "fix" them cheaply are worse than they do to vehicles in general.
But, that's why I fixed the big 4,000 watt genset... in case I want/need AC. I've used it a few times. but also it's big enough to run the block heater if I need to, if the glow plugs suddenly quit working for one reason or another. I use it now and then for the microwave too if I want to heat up food without using the propane stove top or oven.
Good point.
It has no problem with defrost, or heat...
And I DO feel some cold air. So it is working at least a bit. It just doesn't get frosty.
I'll check.
It has no problem with defrost, or heat...
And I DO feel some cold air. So it is working at least a bit. It just doesn't get frosty.
I'll check.
gnathv
Full Access Member
Look at your suction line and accumulator while in ac. Is it condensating and is your compressor running or short cycling?
Thank you. I'll check those things as well.
Although, as I have said several times already, it IS putting out cold air. Meaning colder than ambient that is getting pushed by a fan... So I'm pretty sure it is doing something...
I might get to this, by this weekend. Trying to do too many things at once, right now.
Although, as I have said several times already, it IS putting out cold air. Meaning colder than ambient that is getting pushed by a fan... So I'm pretty sure it is doing something...
I might get to this, by this weekend. Trying to do too many things at once, right now.
gnathv
Full Access Member
When you look at suction and accumulator you’ll know if charge is low.
TNBrett
Full Access Member
The low side lines will get cold, and the high side will get hot. Observing the compressor clutch with A/C running will tell you a lot. If it engages for a second or two then off for 5-10 seconds for example, it’s short cycling.
There is a pressure switch on the low side that controls the compressor clutch. It will not allow it to engage if the pressure is too low, or too high. When the charge gets low, often times there is enough pressure to allow the clutch to engage, but as soon as the compressor starts pumping the pressure on the high side builds, and the low side drops below the threshold, disengaging the clutch. The pressure then balances between the high and low side again and the clutch will cycle on again. This short cycling will repeat, and you can get a little bit of cooling from it.
95% of the time this is what happens to make an A/C stop cooling like it should. As long as it was cooling before, and the clutch engages for at least a little bit, you can recharge it. What that tells us is that there is at leas some refrigerant left in the system. As long as that is the case, no moisture could have made its way in.
When the system is working correctly there should be about 40-50 psi on the low side when the compressor is on. That number will vary with the ambient temperature. When you shut it off, the pressure will balance between the high and low sides and be much higher.
That $13 charging hose I linked from Amazon has a low side gauge in it that will allow you to get close enough to the correct charge to get decent cooling.
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