Rear Gears Help

[mightykp]

Problems with pinion. The yoke slid back and is hitting the gears casing...?
Pull axles and replace the inner bearing, or too far damaged?
Replace/rebuild anything?
Here's the origin story https://www.oilburners.net/threads/axle-or-bearing-issue.92657/#post-1125528

 

[Rdnck84_03]

I have replaced the pinion bearings in one that looked like that before. Probably wasn't the recommended repair, but it is still working. I'm not sure how many miles have been put on it but I do know

 

[Nero]

When my old man and I bought his crew cab, it was sold as is with a loose pinion nut.
I put a new crush sleeve and pinion seal in it, and it did just fine. Had the same wear in it that your ring carrier has. Didn't affect its reliability.

 

[mightykp]

Thanks for replies.
The pinion nut was tight, very. Still don't know why yoke/pinion slipped back.
I'll pull axles and try to see the inner bearing. Your experiences makes me think I may not need to send it out or replace much. (I hope!)
If all okay, new seals and crush sleeve.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

The only thing that can allow the pinion to go backwards is either the nut loose or the outer bearing being worn.

James

 

[mightykp]

Sterling 10.25
Ford 3FTEA
Removed the yoke and spindle. Was VERY hard to separate the two. Now when trying to slide the yoke onto the spindle it only goes about a 1/4 inch.j Cleaned it, greased it, still gets stuck.
I'm trying to use a crush sleeve eliminator, so it requires removal and removing a shim once tightened.
Also, are these chips on the spindle gear a total loss or can i reuse it?
Replace one... or both the spindle and yoke?
Definitely out of comfort zone, so any help is appreciated

 

[u2slow]

The end of the gears are chipped. The gear can be run if there no high spots.

Do the gear faces have grit on them you can clean off? Or are the pitted? If pitted, those gears are basically finished. However, you can probably slam it back together with a new pinion tail bearing and squeeze the remaining life out of it.

 

[Nero]

I personally would replace. You change ring and pinions as a pair, they're machined together, plus you already have them out.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Don't use it. I wouldn't use it with the ends of the teeth chipped, but that's me. You may be able to get away with it for a long time. What makes me say to not use it is the horrible pitting in the teeth.

 

[mightykp]

Thanks for input. I think I'll replace the spindle and yoke.
Would you also do the side bearings and race as well? this for example...

More Information for TIMKEN DRK314

I'm worried about getting everything aligned right, so leaving the side bearings alone seems useful. But, hey it's open already...

 

[Nero]

All that pitting occurred due to debris floating around in the fluid. I would definitely replace all the diff bearings. Cheap insurance. And again, it's already apart.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

All that pitting occurred due to debris floating around in the fluid. I would definitely replace all the diff bearings. Cheap insurance. And again, it's already apart.

X2 on that! Do it once, do it right.

 

[u2slow]

If you're changing the ring and pinion, use all new bearings. And yes, that requires careful shimming and pattern checking. Carefully clean the housing of metal debris too.

If you're going to keep your damaged ring and pinion, it's not worth throwing too much for parts at it (pinion bearing & seal). Then at least you can have the truck mobile, while you get your ducks in a row for a proper rebuild, or perhaps an axle swap.

 

[mightykp]

More advice... Please!
the sterling 10.25 is scheduled for a new yoke, pinion and bearing replacement.
But now the wheel hub is giving me problems.
The inner bearing blew and the spindle is seemingly wider. I had trouble getting the remnant of the bearing off -- air chisel and pry bar after slicing it. The new bearing also wouldn't go on, so I sanded and sanded and now it goes on... but kinda loose.
Is there a repair sleeve for the wheel spindle? I can find one for the oil seal, but the inner bearing, I'm not so sure. If not a part number does anyone know the correct diameter?
BTW the hub is also shot. I pressed the new race into it and it spins, ouch. So i'm replacing hub as well.
Anything I missed or should consider?

 

[u2slow]

Ouch.

At this point I'd be looking for another $100-200 used axle, in better condition.