rear end locked up :(

[icanfixall]

If the bearing burned into the differancial whats going to be left after you have it apart. Its like spinning a main bearing. Not only does it ruin the crank but it ruins the block too. Learning you ran low of oil because of a leak kinda tells me the rest of the gears and bearings are suspect too. May as well just replace the complete differancial. Cheaper and quicker. Mostly 8 u bolt nuts. 4 universal joint bolt or nuts. A brake line and a parking brake cable. If you end up replacing the differancial please don't reuse the spring u bolts. Many here will tell you they are a one time use only. If you want to save them leave them alone on the axle and take the springs too. Then you save loosening 4 bolts.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Well since the wheel hubs are essentially at the highest point of the oil level, and they don't run long when they're starved for oil, he probably didn't drive far enough to damage the gears - unless his pinion seal is leaking like a sieve I bet there is still plenty of oil in the pumpkin. And if the ring gear is still submerged in oil there's a good chance the carrier bearings survived as well, due to oil splash lubrication by the diff and gears. Still I agree, pulling the whole axle out and stick another one in its place is probably the easiest fix for that mess - I wouldn't think welding up the spindle and machining it down to specs and rethreading it will come cheap. Also yes, replace the U-bolts if you're swapping axles. I wouldn't touch the springs unless the donor ones are better suited for your needs and have bushings in much better shape than yours - dealing with a dually axle alone is bad enough, add some big springs on top of it and it's just a maddening annoyance IMHO.

 

[79jasper]

For damage investigative purposes, how hard would it be to bust the hub off with a sledge?
I mean like hitting it directly to break it into pieces.

Too bad I'm not closer. I have a good dualy axle in my 79 chevy I'm parting. 3.73's I believe.

 

[riotwarrior]

CUTTING YER HUB OFF

Use an angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel on it. Cut the hub in like 3 pieces by making slices from the inner bearing towards the outer. You'll have to disassemble the brake, but at least the fact that it's a dually axle gives you more work space once shoes and hardware are gone and you're down to bare backing plate. Once hub is cut, try to pound a chisel between the pieces to split them off.

It worked for me for a seized front bearing. Worth a shot on your rear axle I think.

I think I can speak from experience here with this however it was a front diff. No matter principle remains the same!

The KEY is to be absolutely sure you are cutting behind that outter bearing in your case!

So without further ado, read/look at this thread for ideas, pics galore for you, and eat yer heart out on that torch work

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...4x-hub-stuck-on-OMG&highlight=cut+hub+dana+60

JM2CW

Al

 

[LCAM-01XA]

The KEY is to be absolutely sure you are cutting behind that outter bearing in your case!

That worked for you cause your hub was still turning, with his seized bearings I doubt that cutting the hub around like you did will help him much, the outer bearing will probably still be suck to the spindle and thus he'll still have to cut thru its race and split the hub in pieces.

And yeah, torch work was excellent on your project. However, since we're on the eat-your-heart-out bandwagon, and in light of your other thread about tire chains - I have On-Spots

 

[riotwarrior]

That worked for you cause your hub was still turning, with his seized bearings I doubt that cutting the hub around like you did will help him much, the outer bearing will probably still be suck to the spindle and thus he'll still have to cut thru its race and split the hub in pieces.

And yeah, torch work was excellent on your project. However, since we're on the eat-your-heart-out bandwagon, and in light of your other thread about tire chains - I have On-Spots

What are ON-Spots? I have no freaking idea!

 

[warhog]

Well i've been browsing and leaning towards the majority of the votes (new rear end). I can slap that in at my house, though not in the most ideal area. But i'll make it work. I got the 4spd trans, no idea what the rear end gears are. Any reason to choose 3.55 over 4.10 or any other option? I'm looking at rebuilding most (within cost reason) of the "new" rear end when I get it. I figure I can screw around with the brakes and probably figure out the bearings and such now, but the pumpkin i won't touch. I'll likely bring that to someone who knows more. So that leaves me with options. Given this thing lasted 300k, there's no reason to go extreme with upgrades, oem quality will be fine. Though i'd like to toy with the idea of an air locker or an upgraded limited slip. Being 2wd, i'll take all the traction i can get.

 

[79jasper]

If you do any highway driving at all, I'd get the 3.55's.

 

[riotwarrior]

Well i've been browsing and leaning towards the majority of the votes (new rear end). I can slap that in at my house, though not in the most ideal area. But i'll make it work. I got the 4spd trans, no idea what the rear end gears are. Any reason to choose 3.55 over 4.10 or any other option? I'm looking at rebuilding most (within cost reason) of the "new" rear end when I get it. I figure I can screw around with the brakes and probably figure out the bearings and such now, but the pumpkin i won't touch. I'll likely bring that to someone who knows more. So that leaves me with options. Given this thing lasted 300k, there's no reason to go extreme with upgrades, oem quality will be fine. Though i'd like to toy with the idea of an air locker or an upgraded limited slip. Being 2wd, i'll take all the traction i can get.

If you can afford an AIR locker you won't look back!

Now if you just get a housing and axles and such you can throw a new ring gear and pinion and yoke in and get all the newer longer stuff that lasts longer and won't walk off splines...

It all comes down to budget and apparently you have MARRIED this truck so may as well treat her right

 

[warhog]

If you can afford an AIR locker you won't look back!

Now if you just get a housing and axles and such you can throw a new ring gear and pinion and yoke in and get all the newer longer stuff that lasts longer and won't walk off splines...

It all comes down to budget and apparently you have MARRIED this truck so may as well treat her right

I hate it. like every other relationship that i've gotten roped into. But i feel like this is a girl i knockedup, so there's no looking back now. I have a beater car now, no more rentals so I can afford to let it sit and take my time really. I think the air locker is the way to go if i was going to go with any locker at all. I wouldn't want nor trust any other locker when towing heavy loads. I'd rather be able to turn it on and off when i want and need. We shall see. I'll have to do some browsing.

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

Have you found the truck junkyard in Manchester? If CFC or Fanns don't have what you want they are worth a try.