rear end locked up :(

[warhog]

About the tires, I flat spotted a set of duals on my bull rack once so I rotated one wheel 180* on the recommendation of the tire shop. The tires were nearly new, and I thought the fix seemed a little suspect but I was sick about buying two new tires so soon. I ran it like that for quite a while with no apparent further damage. I don't know how it would ride on a pickup and on a drive axle versus a trailer axle, but something to think about.

Yeah that's the way we do it on the semi's. Put one flat spot on top an one flat spot on botton. BUT my rear end has the dowel pin. So i'll have to dismount the tire then rotate it and re mount.

I got the socket today by chance. But the hub is still stuck. Any ideas? we're going to try a puller they use on the big rigs. There's no other bolts or clips we can find. So i think it's stuck pretty good...

 

[79jasper]

BFH to knock it loose?

 

[warhog]

oh we've been banging on it lol.

 

[redneckaggie]

be careful with a steel hammer on that cast drum, could end it a shattered hub if not careful

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Yeah that's the way we do it on the semi's. Put one flat spot on top an one flat spot on botton. BUT my rear end has the dowel pin. So i'll have to dismount the tire then rotate it and re mount.

I got the socket today by chance. But the hub is still stuck. Any ideas? we're going to try a puller they use on the big rigs. There's no other bolts or clips we can find. So i think it's stuck pretty good...

Cut that stupid roll pin off, it's only purpose is to ensure you always have the hand holes matched. If your wheels have pins on them, grind those down too, they are worthless and only cause aggravation. IMHO the studs should be the only thing going in between hub and wheels - no locating pins and other such nonsense.

Also, it appears the bearings have effectively welded your hub to the spindle. Or at least seized it on it. At this point I'd consider the hub a write-off and break out the cutting tools. I'd be somewhat hesitant to use a big-truck puller on a light-truck axle from fear of damaging the end of the spindle. But I've never had to do that on a rear axle, so it may be safe to use. Your call there.

On the positive side, now that you have the tool pulling a hub from a junkyard will be a breeze.

 

[warhog]

be careful with a steel hammer on that cast drum, could end it a shattered hub if not careful

yeah def wasnt using a steel hammer. if that big *** puller don't get it off, i think i'm screwed. don't really want to put heat under there

 

[bigoilburner20]

I gave him the part number already! Mile Marker #15009-01, it's right off the box that my socket came in. Take that to an Autozone and have them look it up. Don't give them a vehicle application, let them run the number alone. If they can't do that they are worthless idiots.

hey I take offense to that I worked at autozone for 2 years and I was the best at troubleshooting problems and finding those parts we never thought we had in any of our inventory I was in commercial for 6months and I sold four of those sockets and my manager thought I worked at another parts store or something so I know you were making a point and forgive me for high jacking but that does offend me.

also I am sure your bearing in done I sold those sockets to a dealership doing a fleet of these old trucks and needed those sockets for their techs. I seen ur posts and knew it had to be the bearing since a good friend of mine told me what happened the first truck had 350k on it no sign of any diff fluid change. 2. the other truck just rolled to 110k and was serviced once I was told and the other two had over 300k and those two were both 460's I mean to me it just seems if you dont keep up on them it will haunt you I suppose.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Use an angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel on it. Cut the hub in like 3 pieces by making slices from the inner bearing towards the outer. You'll have to disassemble the brake, but at least the fact that it's a dually axle gives you more work space once shoes and hardware are gone and you're down to bare backing plate. Once hub is cut, try to pound a chisel between the pieces to split them off.

It worked for me for a seized front bearing. Worth a shot on your rear axle I think.

 

[warhog]

Well they gave it hell while i was at work. That puller couldn't get it to even flinch. He pretty much gave up and said i should get a new rear end. Now, it's nothing fancy but a stock rear end with an unknown amount of miles, but i still have a hard time tossing the whole assembly over one stupid hub. So i may try cutting the facker off like suggested.

If I do go the new rear end route....Are there any other options? I know the one i had was a pretty stout rear end but what are some other options? There is a stocker in a yard near me i could go with but i'd want the whole thing run through so i never have to touch it again, but i was curious what some other choices in axles would be. I think i've kind of passed that line where i made a commitment to keep this broad.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

hey I take offense to that I worked at autozone for 2 years and I was the best at troubleshooting problems and finding those parts we never thought we had in any of our inventory I was in commercial for 6months and I sold four of those sockets and my manager thought I worked at another parts store or something so I know you were making a point and forgive me for high jacking but that does offend me.

Why the heck are you offended? You obviously knew *** you're doing, so what I said does not apply to you. Now if a sales associate (or whatever it is that corporate calls you guys) couldn't look up a part # the customer gave them, a part # for something that is confirmed by first hand experience that their store does in fact carry, then yeah, they'd be an idiot who needs to find a different job. My comment has nothing to do with you or your employer in particular, the idiots in question can be found everywhere and no store chain is immune to them - Autozone's name was brought up only cause I know for a fact they carry the socket, and I only know that cause that's where I got mine from.

If I do go the new rear end route....Are there any other options? I know the one i had was a pretty stout rear end but what are some other options? There is a stocker in a yard near me i could go with but i'd want the whole thing run through so i never have to touch it again, but i was curious what some other choices in axles would be. I think i've kind of passed that line where i made a commitment to keep this broad.

Direct fit would be another Sterling or a D70HD. But since your truck is too old to have RABS you can also use a GM 14-bolt or newer AAM, and also whatever it is that Dodge put under their duallies. Obviously with a non-factory axle some mods will be needed, for instance it may be necessary to move spring perches and in all likelihood redo brake lines and e-brake cables. If a 14-bolt was close enough to fitting with minor mods personally I'd choose that, for the sole reason that later ones came with disc brakes and I'd really like to have rear discs someday. Still the easiest would be to find another factory axle and just bolt it on without any mods.

I still would like to know why your bearings failed, axle must have been starved for oil at some point I think, or a hub seal was changed and the job was botched up somehow (for instance bearings were either too tight or too loose, with a dually it's hard to notice it since the tires will always sit straight)...

 

[idiabuse]

How does one become OFFENDED? do they teach that junk in public screwls?


Javier

 

[warhog]

Oh well no one ever asked why it grenaded itself, i can answer that lol....the shop i paid before i moved two months ago to run through all the brakes and check everything out for me, ignored a leaking wheel seal. It wasn't enough to make a puddle, or a mess. With all these dirt roads, it caked over it and I (maybe they didnt either) never noticed. Ran that side dry. I'm sure the river i drive through twice a day didn't help much either.

There's a few options for stock sterlings around me. Ones at a pull a part. Maybe that's a good place to learn so if I f it up I could just walk away and pretend like I only needed a bolt...of course i'd want to rebuild it before installing it...locker maybe? new trac lok unit?hmmm

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Junkyards are a great shadetree mechanic's school - for instance I just learned that if one wants 2000 Windstar electric fans they should equip themselves with a cordless sawzall as part of the toolkit for obtaining said fans

Make sure the axle you're getting is a dually axle coming from a pickup truck, not a cab-chassis one. Factory lockers do not exist, as good as you gonna get is a posi. Look for these codes on the door sticker: 49 (dually, pickup, 3.55 open), 45 (dually, pickup, 4.10 open), D5 (dually, pickup, 4.10 posi), or possibly D9 (dually, pickup, 3.55 posi) tho those are rare and just a few years production run ('86-'88 or something like that. Avoid #69, 65, and F5, as those are cab-chassis axles and will not work for your frame. Tell me what gears you have now and what gears you want and I can tell you what parts to mix and match to get what you want (I made my own 3.55 posi dually axle out of my factory 4.10 open housing and a 3.55 posi guts from an F250). These are all Sterling codes btw, haven't messed with Danas yet.

 

[79jasper]

If he goes 10.25, should he get the 2nd Gen with the longer splines?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

If he goes 10.25, should he get the 2nd Gen with the longer splines?

Absolutely, if he can find one. When I was looking for my 3.55 gears I was actually looking for a 2nd gen posi with 3.55, but all I found were used and abused 2nd gen open 3.55s and one nice well cared for 1st gen posi 3.55 - guess which one I grabbed Someday run across a nice well cared for 2nd gen open 3.55 and grab its gears and have my cake and eat it too, but I'm not in a rush there.