Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

[IDIoit]

i use 4.5" cutoff wheels for stainless.
rips right through mild stel like nothin, but one fray on the mesh, and youll be hearin air raid sirns.
if i were you, id make the most obnoxtious exhaust for your neighbor!

Familys coming over? sounds like a pony keg and giving uncle bill a grinder..lol

 

[Greg5OH]

^haha


this is why i dont need no frikken 7 dollar a pop or 20 a pop mandrel bends! fabbed step style. This will work great. Going to make the entire system out of pvc first, and then return the elbows when im done with it yep.

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[Greg5OH]

I lied, cab floor aint done today. Will be doe when its done lol.

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All the damn c channels take too damn long' like 20 mins each. Driver side is donethit just needs a few more sheets laid down. Then passenger aide tomoro, then tie the B pillars in. Then flip the cab over and get er stitch welded and u dercoated. The cab flipping prolly wont happen till monday

 

[Greg5OH]

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ran out of channel to finish passenger side. Raining today so wont get to the cab today, but ill try working on the headers at least.

Any ideas how to plug the hole where the CDR took fresh air from the back of the 5" intake manifold inlet? WOndering if a peice of steel JB welded to the aluminum intake would be ok?

this whole floor thing is stupid lol. Should just cut the problem sections out of my old one and welded patches in. would been done 2 weeks ago. ah well, GIT R DONE.
seam sealer and that thick undercoaitng sutff I hope will mask any booger welds I have

 

[sjwelds]

Any ideas how to plug the hole where the CDR took fresh air from the back of the 5" intake manifold inlet? WOndering if a peice of steel JB welded to the aluminum intake would be ok?

Two things I hate in my shop.

1: JB Weld

2: The oxidation/electrolysis reaction that takes place when steel and aluminum are in close proximity to each other for a period of time.


My recommendation, for what it's worth: check out the Banks block off plate and build something similar to that out of stainless or aluminum. If you can fab a cab floor this should be zero challenge! Use RTV or Right Stuff for sealing.

 

[Greg5OH]

i see, the banks block off uses the factory botl locations to keep it there. Im afraid RTV will blow out under 20 psi of boost tho..

 

[Greg5OH]

some more looking at my intake manifold, Ive decided to buy R&D's intake. Much quicker, simpler and probably...cheaper in the long run than dicking with my own home made setup.

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id have to order 5" pipe (38$), then a 5"to 3.5" reducer ($15), cut and weld those together to make a hat for it, seal all points with RTV and hope it doesnt give under 20 psi, make a CDR block off plate etc.
This is just a much better design and frees up a touch more room.
cant wait to paint it yellow

 

[laserjock]

Did you consider just running like an ATS snail or something similar? They aren't that hard to come by and sit right on the intake like the air cleaner. Do you think it's a space issue? A lot of intercooled guys seem to do that for space to get the charge pipes routed through there.

 

[Greg5OH]

Using a 6.0 intercoler. No direct feed here

 

[laserjock]

No I understand that. I am going to run a Garrett gt3788 on a modified Banks kit a lot like Heath did with intercooler up front. I'll have to go back and look but I think he did away with the banks charge pipes and used an ats intake snail to the manifold.

Looks like this.

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Not saying it's better than the R&D manifold, just tossing it out as an option.

 

[Greg5OH]

ohh ya i see what your saying now. yeah theyre not too expensive either, but then i have to get a pipe that fits into there perfectly, seal it somehow, seal the hat to the intake. Might come out a bit cheaper but I really like the concept of R&D's, powerstroke style. and deifnitly frees up some room there too so I can put my turbo up closer and further away from the firewall, which will allow me to use a smaller bend radius.
Im pretty stubborn as well and when I think something is a good idea its hard for me to justify other options lol.
Man...engine will look ****. Black piping, black silicone boots, everythign else all yellow, black headstuds peeking out 0.0.

Down, down the road Ill get a bigger pump and a more appropriately sized turbo. For now, the HX34 and maxxed stock pump will have to do.

 

[Greg5OH]

ditching the stock vacuum pump an drunning the electric super duty pump to control the HVAC since im using 05 hydroboost.

 

[laserjock]

ditching the stock vacuum pump an drunning the electric super duty pump to control the HVAC since im using 05 hydroboost.

Pictures please!!! I really want to do this too. With the hydroboost, all you have is the cruise control and heaters. If they stop working, its not a disater. Besides, SD vacuum pumps are probably easier to buy over the counter. I'm also considering an exhaust brake that is vacuum actuated. I'm pretty sure BD makes one but I need to research that some more. I know most of thier stuff is compressed air. It would be nice to only have to do one system with a bigger ballast can somewhere.

 

[Greg5OH]

exhaust brake would be awesome.
Ill post er up soon. the pump itself is tiny and looks like a toy lol.
I read htey run all the time so ill just have this turn on with ignition on.

 

[Greg5OH]

nice, also learned the SD vacuum pump has a vacuum switch internally so it will regulate itself