Radiator Replacement?

gatorman21218

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if you are going to junk the old radiator, go ahead and give it a super flush. Not for the old radiators sake but its good to flush out the crud from the block and whatnot before it clogs the new one
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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b/c it is just to "help" warm up the tranny fluid when it is cold. most find this not necessarily therefore they delete it. i re-used my old fitting in my new rad and kept everything stock.
 

cardana24

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b/c it is just to "help" warm up the tranny fluid when it is cold. most find this not necessarily therefore they delete it. i re-used my old fitting in my new rad and kept everything stock.

I am not looking at the truck right now, so this might be a stupid question. Where does the "warming" happen? The reason I ask is because if it is where the stock transmission cooler lines go (at the bottom) of the radiator, then I have no use for that since I am running an aftermarket cooler mounted on the front of the a/c condenser.
 

cardana24

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So if I am running an aftermarket cooler would there be a point of running this line to "warm" the tranny fluid?

anyone know this? I would like to get this sorted out today? If I do not run it, what's the best way to plug/change the "T" union where all of the hoses meet by the right side exhaust manifold.
 

icanfixall

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The line your talking about sounds like the heater return to the water pump and then it has the tee in it to run warm coolant down to the rad bottom tank. To plug off that tee just replace the entire hose from the heater core to the water pump fitting. Then remove the bottom rad tank hose fitting and install a brass plug. Do the heater hose before the bottom plug. Make sure the rad cap is on tight. Then you can remove the fitting with very little coolant escaping due to the cap creating a vacuum in the cooling system. Or skip all this and drain all the coolant out and replace the fitting. You will see that bottom tank fitting is drilled out very tiny amount so barely any coolant reaches the trans cooler loop in the lower tank. Really kinda a wasted idea...
 

cardana24

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The line your talking about sounds like the heater return to the water pump and then it has the tee in it to run warm coolant down to the rad bottom tank. To plug off that tee just replace the entire hose from the heater core to the water pump fitting. Then remove the bottom rad tank hose fitting and install a brass plug. Do the heater hose before the bottom plug. Make sure the rad cap is on tight. Then you can remove the fitting with very little coolant escaping due to the cap creating a vacuum in the cooling system. Or skip all this and drain all the coolant out and replace the fitting. You will see that bottom tank fitting is drilled out very tiny amount so barely any coolant reaches the trans cooler loop in the lower tank. Really kinda a wasted idea...

Okay cool! Thanks for the reply. Do you happen to know what size and length heater hose I would need to run a new line from the heater core to the water pump (I ask because I would like to pick it up on my way home this evening, rather than having to run back out once I am at home)? Thanks.
 

icanfixall

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The hose size is 5/8 and its about 4 or 5 ft long so get some extra just in case. Both the supply and return lines for the heater are the same size hose diameter. The supply from the head to the core is a little shorter.. I don't have the lower rad fitting size so buy a varity pack at the parts store. It might be 1/2 inch national pipe thread ans size...
 

gatorman21218

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on my radiator the trans cooler had barbed fittings on it. there is no need to mess with them if you arent going to use them. obviously coolant doesnt come out the trans part and therefore there is no need to plug them since it will be empty
 

cardana24

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on my radiator the trans cooler had barbed fittings on it. there is no need to mess with them if you arent going to use them. obviously coolant doesnt come out the trans part and therefore there is no need to plug them since it will be empty

That's true too...I was not even thinking of that. Thanks for setting me straight.
 

hesutton

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I have the Rodney Red aluminum and its really well built. Its also costly around $650.00 delivered..

My Rodney Red is being made for my crew cab as I type this. He builts them custom each time. I'm going to call him today and check on the progress. He is using my old rad as a size template. The cost for mine is $750, but it should keep the 6.9 cool while pulling the fifth wheel all over the eastern U.S.

Heath
 

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