Radiator beat down

chris142

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How bad did those radiators end up leaking, were they minor where can keep going or major where up .... creek without a paddle.
Major enough to spray water out and have to add it all day long.
 

Big Bart

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My radiator sprang a leak towing my 8k lb boat. I called a couple of radiator shops (Quotes were all about $100 of each other.), went to one recommended by a couple folks. They ordered the core for the following day and had the radiator recored and back to me that night. As mentioned above it was pricy, $800 but there was nothing to retrofit, no aluminum to ballon or corrode, and no plastic to worry about. So I felt good about the $800 knowing I have years of heavy duty use ahead of me.

As mentioned above they could have soldered up the two leaky rows on my radiator and I would have been on the road again, but I felt other rows could leak shortly after. Maybe you get soldered up to get back on the road ASAP, and when ready recore or replace shortly after???

Remember to use the right radiator coolant for the know cavitation issues on the cylinder walls. I used one of the Peaks Fleet Charge with SCA with distilled water. (Ordered at Orielly's, they had it in the next day.) Maybe others can weigh in on what they like.
 

Pinchofclay

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First timer here.
(1994 F-250 7.3 idit.)
I purchased a Champion full aluminum 3 row from them on line.
I also bought the dual Spal fan setup with the aluminum housing to mount fans to radiator. I have had them over 2 years and so far very pleased.
The items were also packaged very well.
I live in Mn and my experience with plastic end radiators has only been some minimal leakage when -10 or colder and that is on older high mileage vehicles. Obviously those of you in the hotter regions have had other experiences.
 

Frstdiesel

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I have a 1984 f250 with a radiator that got in the fan and chewed up the core.
I too contemplated on which way to go, replace or recore.
I finally bit the bullet and had mine recored.
The local shop that did the work, builds and repairs rads as big as a wall, and have been in business here for many years.
Cost was just south of $800.
But I feel confident that this rad will outlive me and not have to worry about changing it out every 4-6 years.
 

1mouse3

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Remember to use the right radiator coolant for the know cavitation issues on the cylinder walls. I used one of the Peaks Fleet Charge with SCA with distilled water. (Ordered at Orielly's, they had it in the next day.) Maybe others can weigh in on what they like.


Im using zerex ZXED1 coolant.

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For those that want to know, I have many small leaks in the radiator. It got a little beat up sitting over the years.

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yARIC008

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I have the champion 4 row, after 4 years to sprung a leak. However, the customer service was exceptional. One call and 2 minutes in they had a new one shipping to me. I just replaced it yesterday actually.
 

1mouse3

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I have the champion 4 row, after 4 years to sprung a leak. However, the customer service was exceptional. One call and 2 minutes in they had a new one shipping to me. I just replaced it yesterday actually.

Good to know a champion will have a decent warranty that wont leave me with out a radiator.
 

Clb

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Bumping this.
is the champion still the company to go with?
my local rad shop is on crack...
Anyone got input?
Thanx cb
 

1mouse3

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is the champion still the company to go with?
Anyone got input?

A question I dont have a answer to since still uing the leaky copper one, the engine is on the front burnner while this is on the back burnner.
 

1mouse3

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Well that dose not leave much option past a cheap sketchy one off ebay, guess holding out was not good in the long run.
 

Shadetreemechanic

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Rockauto and about $600 for a Copper/Brass.
****** for a lifetime of fun.
If you go this route, open the box as soon as you get it. I ordered one of these "Copper/Brass" ones from a local parts store a couple years ago. When I got it I stuck it on the shelf because the project it was needed for was not that far along. When I finally opened it I found that "Copper/Brass" was really "Plastic/Aluminum" but it was too late to return it.
I have been running it for a couple years now without issue, but it doesn't cool like the original.
 

1mouse3

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Well a frozen wasteland is almost here and need the old girl to not freeze over, heat would also be good to have. It crossed my mind to grab a plastic one from the auto store but they no longer exist, so what ever alluminum one can be found is the chosen one. Most all the one on ebay under $350 have incorrect tube sizes, there is a 2 row norther and a arizona one for ~$500 with stamped ends. Was going to get the arizona one but a few days after I place the order was notified there was a issues with it, so got a refund and back on the hunt. The next up was the norther one but a few 3 row champians turned up for ~$350, who I got it from has no more now.

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This contraption makes it possible for me to change the radiator by my self.:sly

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The old one has developed a giant scab on it that was rock hard, did not try too hard to pick at it.

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This is the old coolant that came out this time, its %70+ water and %10+ rust cake. I have coolant filters but been lazzy and not put it on, dont think the first few would last long with this. In end 4 new gallons of coolant was added and sort maybe another gallon that will get added in the morning, only expected to add 2 but this is not going back in.

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