R&Ring a factory turbo

['94IDITurbo7.3]

any body got any tips to make it successful. mainly so i don't break anything.


thanks

 

[icanfixall]

The easy answer is send it to Ruff... Usually they come apart easy but somethimes they stick too. Then once you have it completely apart measureing all the important parts is whats next. Now buying the correct well made parts is the tuff issue. As Russ has found out rebuilding turbos that were rebuilt with cheap import crap parts. Sometimes you have a real ****** on your hands. Then finally these turbos need to be balanced way closer than any other rotating equiptment. They will spin upwards of 120,000 rpm. Thats 2000 rpm per second. Make a 100th of a gram mistake and you have lunchmeat for a turbo. I can do plenty of machine work but rebuild a turbo.. Nope... Not even interested in that. For me its much to easy for a mistake that takes out the turbo. When the inlet compresser wheel destroys itself on the housing all that metal goes into the cylinders. Not a good thing at all. If the hot wheel contacts the housing so what. It goes out the tail pipe or out the stacks. I'm sure if you ask Russ for pointers he may offer some.

 

[Ididriver]

Eric now would be a great time to upgradethat downpipe while tour in there

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

The easy answer is send it to Ruff... Usually they come apart easy but somethimes they stick too. Then once you have it completely apart measureing all the important parts is whats next. Now buying the correct well made parts is the tuff issue. As Russ has found out rebuilding turbos that were rebuilt with cheap import crap parts. Sometimes you have a real ****** on your hands. Then finally these turbos need to be balanced way closer than any other rotating equiptment. They will spin upwards of 120,000 rpm. Thats 2000 rpm per second. Make a 100th of a gram mistake and you have lunchmeat for a turbo. I can do plenty of machine work but rebuild a turbo.. Nope... Not even interested in that. For me its much to easy for a mistake that takes out the turbo. When the inlet compresser wheel destroys itself on the housing all that metal goes into the cylinders. Not a good thing at all. If the hot wheel contacts the housing so what. It goes out the tail pipe or out the stacks. I'm sure if you ask Russ for pointers he may offer some.

sorry about the lack of clarity. i am going to be taking the turbo off the engine and shipping it to Russ for most likely a new hot wheel and the cold side upgrade.

Eric now would be a great time to upgradethat downpipe while tour in there

Chris, you are a persistent little ****** aren't ya.

I WANT to do this....http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?50103-my-7-3-build-part-1/page3but then i would have to buy a welder, then i would have to buy an exhaust system NOW. it's not that i can't afford that, it is just that it is a good chunk of change that is just ****, gone.

 

[typ4]

He is sending it to me, remove airbox, take center bolt out of scroll, loosen all 6 comp hsg bolts swing up to get hat off, remove wastegate , I dont need it. Undo the 4 up pipe bolts, do some soaking with penetrant to make nut removal easier. Then take the 2 pedestal bolts out off the manifold, then wiggle things loose, keep the pedestal, I dont need it, and then remove the exh elbow, definately soak those bolts for a while, 12 point 5/16 socket and an impact wrench is the best method for removal. Oh if its factory remove the v-band clamp from downpipe.

 

[towcat]

if the uppipe halves are balky coming apart, unbolt the cab and lift it. it takes a little time but it's worth the work.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

that was easy. turbo was out of the truck in 2hrs. i pulled the turbo out with the up-pipe attached. no issue there. i took the two nuts off of the studs that hold the turbo to the pedestal since i did not want to disturb the valley pan grommet.

i did break one of my return line caps though. so i will need to buy one of those again. i am also going to get a new CDR, since this one has 208,*** on it.

i also rounded off one of the heads on the exhaust elbow. what is the thread and length of them. i will get 5 new bolts since the others are not in the best shape either. they all came out pretty easy though. the up pip to turbo nuts came off good as well. i was REALLY suprised.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

New development.

yesterday my dad was asking me if it would be a good time to upgrade that down pipe. trying to not sound too excited i said "as a matter of fat, yes it would be a GREAT time". then he asked about the rest of the exhaust. my response to that was i guess it would be a good time.

then i showed him how i could upgrade the exhaust out let by welding a 3 inch v-band flange on there. he also like that.

so while my turbo is out in Oregon. it looks as though i will be getting a MIG welder, a couple of v-bands, and this exhaust.......http://www.diamondeyeperformance.com/product_info.php?cPath=17&products_id=185
i am going to the system from discountexhaustsystems.com. will be about $300.00 shipped to my door.


so right now i am a happy guy and a tad bit excited.

 

[Ididriver]

Sweet!
Don't you love howthose things work out?
Similar thing just hapend to me. Looks like I'm getting an electric fuel pump

Were you getting the 60-1 wheel? I saw u said wheel was getting replaced.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

yep, i'm getting the 60-1 cold wheel. russ said that most likely the tips on the hot wheel are melted off. if that is the case i would be getting a whole new center section.

tomorrow i will order my exhaust.

 

[War Wagon]

New development.

yesterday my dad was asking me if it would be a good time to upgrade that down pipe. trying to not sound too excited i said "as a matter of fat, yes it would be a GREAT time". then he asked about the rest of the exhaust. my response to that was i guess it would be a good time.

then i showed him how i could upgrade the exhaust out let by welding a 3 inch v-band flange on there. he also like that.

so while my turbo is out in Oregon. it looks as though i will be getting a MIG welder, a couple of v-bands, and this exhaust.......http://www.diamondeyeperformance.com/product_info.php?cPath=17&products_id=185
i am going to the system from discountexhaustsystems.com. will be about $300.00 shipped to my door.


so right now i am a happy guy and a tad bit excited.

I know the diamond eye is cheaper, but in my experience the kit for the 94-97's does not fit nicely. MBRP makes the nicest kit for the 94-97's that I have seen. That is what I bought to do new exhaust on my pickup. Just trying to help from what I have experienced.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

i can't justify paying another $200 dollars though for MBPR.

 

[War Wagon]

I did it as cheap as I could, but still with the idea that it would be clean and done right. I only bought the mid-pipe and tailpipe from MBRP. I liked the MBRP system vs the others the best because it actually expands from 3" to 4" as soon as there is room, before the exhaust bends back towards the rear. I was also able to get the parts at cost. It will go together something like this. The down pipe will be from my ATS exhaust housing upgrade. It will connect to the MBRP mid-pipe. Then a straight piece of 4" will connect the mid-pipe to the MBRP tailpipe. This way I won't be into it for the full cost of the MBRP kit.

I can defiantly understand going with the Diamond Eye though. The product quality is good it just isn't as refined as some of the others, if that makes any sense. I put a kit on a '97 and I ended up modifying the tail pipe with a different bend to make more clearance behind the rear tire. It turned out good when it was done, but took quite a little extra time. Good luck with your project. I'm sure you will be happy with it when it's all installed.