Quick turbo question

93blklightning

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I haven't done much "precision" machining, but I've done A LOT of fabricating, welding, and mechanicing over the years.
Everything from working in a garage as a parts changer, to operating and setting up CNC in a factory setting, and the B line maintenance man at a surface mine, working on everything from CAT 988 loaders D7, D8 dozers, 769, 771, and 777 haul trucks, Kenworth, Mack, Bobcat and not to mention the belt lines, crushers, chutes, and tunnels. So I'm always up for learning new things, this is a first for me, I'm not trying to contradict anyone, I'm just having fun

And by the way, i did use a set of calipers to guage the old bearings, they weren't digital, but they are pretty accurate.

They're a set of Lyman calipers i normally use for my reloading
 
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IDIoit

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And by the way, i did use a set of calipers to guage the old bearings, they weren't digital, but they are pretty accurate.

They're a set of Lyman calipers i normally use for my reloading

FYI, vernier calipers are not accurate.
i dont trust them for anything that has a tighter tolerances of +/- 0.002
they are great for +/- .005, and real easy to use.
but in no way should be used for precision measuring.

i use them every day... along with my digi micrometer
 

93blklightning

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I just got the impression that you thought all i was doing was eye balling the thickness.
I do know they're not as accurate as digital calipers, and are prone to user error.

But i have found them to be within the +/-.005 area for accuracy.
I've been reloading for several years, and still learn more every day.

But again, They work very well for measuring case length, case OAL., neck diameter, and so on. I know this because i have a friend who has a set of digital calipers i use to check my calibration
 

IDIoit

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dial or digital calipers are basically the same,
digital calipers are awesome for the people that cant grasp the concept of adding the whole numbers and the dial numbers together lol

the problem is that they are a slide type of measuring device.
vs. a micrometer which is a screw type, which is very accurate within 0.0001.
most of my diameter tolerances are +/- 0.00015. cant keep parts in that spec with a vernier.
and roundness is key!!!
i have actually machined rods that measured the specified .0005" tolerance, but when put on a consentricity gauge it was out a good 5 mils!
this is what happens when you centerless grind with incorrect blade heighth!!:D

take a virtual tour of my shop!
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?72016-A-little-tour-of-my-little-machine-shop
 

BDCarrillo

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Not to be a party pooper, but just having oil in the turbo isn't sufficient... maybe if it was ball bearing, but your journal turbo relies on a film of pressurized oil to center the shaft.

20-30 PSI of oil oughta be good... fill up a small PVC pipe with oil and give it 30 PSI of air, right into the oil inlet. Keep the drain over a bucket, and the CHRA level +/- 15 degrees. May take a little tinkering to seal the pipe to the oil inlet, but nothing too crazy. A tire valve on the top will let you hook up your air supply.
 

BDCarrillo

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I'd hate to see you damage it from spinning it up without that film centering the shaft properly!
 

93blklightning

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Yeah your right about that, i was thinking that just riding in an oil bath would be sufficient due to the lack of heat from the exhaust
 

BDCarrillo

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Call me paranoid but after seeing how clearances open up on journal bearing turbos without pressure, I wouldn't spin one by hand.
 

93blklightning

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Got another quick question......

After i. Install the engine and turbo, i have to drive it to the exhaust shop, approximately 15 miles away.

Would it hurt to go ahead and hook up the oil lines, then drive it to the shop with oil running thru turbo, but the turbo not spinning ?

Or should i wait until the up pipes are hooked up, then hook up the oil line ?
 

BDCarrillo

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It'll be fine pushing oil through it without any airflow.. It'll pretty much be a good leak test. Just cap off the inlets/outlets on both sides to keep road gunk out.

After the up pipes are fabricated clean those things out!!! Most exhaust shops aren't worried about cutting or welding debris inside the pipe since it's just gonna get blown out of the tailpipe. In your case, any gunk inside the pipe will get drawn into the turbo.

So hose that thing out with brake or carb cleaner and stuff some rags through it. You'll be amazed at the fine metal gunk that sticks to the shipping lube on those exhaust pipes. Add heat from vehicle operation and that lube lets go, sandblasting your exducer with metal.
 

93blklightning

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Good deal, I'll have the inlets capped off, because I'll have the intercooler and air filter hooked up.

But I'll definitely cap off the exhaust side, to keep all that crap out of her.
 
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