Pushrod out of alignment?

[IDIBRONCO]

Remove the valley pan. It will get in the way when you're trying to put the heads back. You can pull the heads with the manifolds on, but they will be lighter. The studs in the outlet side of the manifolds can damage the head gaskets during installation so leave them off. I used to always use a pry bar to lift the heads slightly before trying to pull them off. Lift them just enough to get them to move by hand. I lifted the front of the head while holding the head with the other hand. That's just in case you lift a little bit too far and the head comes off of the dowel. This can let the front part of the head slide down and could gouge the sealing surface of the head. Maybe not, but better to be safe than sorry. If you only break the front of the head free, you may have to work the head up and down some to get the back of the head to release. I also liked to have a helper close by when installing the heads. I'd stand on the steering linkages and have the helper hand me the head. I was always afraid that the head would fall while I was trying to climb inside the engine compartment. These were just a few helpful hints that I learned along the way.

 

[Suleiman Saadeh]

Thanks I appreciate the advice. I actually managed to take it out the passenger side yesterday morning before work. It was a ***** because two pushrods were in the heads along with two bolts that because of the heater box I couldn't remove prior. I'll be taking that out before I put it back in. I'll be removing the driver side when I find time in the next few days.

The piston that got the damage from the starting fluid, had 1 broken pushrod 1 bent one and I believe the lifters are damaged not to mention the piston itself has dents in the surface from where the pushrod end that went towards the piston broke off.

I assume this is could possibly be where the tiny piece of metal I found on my drain plug a while back came from. Idk if or how could make It down there as I'm not as mechanic.

 

[Suleiman Saadeh]

Do I need to take the cover where the IP bolts to to get the valley plan out? I was trying to figure out how to get it out but wasnt sure and everyone says if you take that cover off itll get out of time.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Do I need to take the cover where the IP bolts to to get the valley plan out? I was trying to figure out how to get it out but wasnt sure and everyone says if you take that cover off itll get out of time.

No. Just leave that alone. you need to remove the four bolts and the hold down piece on the front and the oddball nut at the back of the valley pan. You will need to pry it up to break the sealant loose. Then you can lift it up and back far enough for the front to clear the studs in the pump cover. I would use rubber bands to hold the remaining push rods and bolts up while removing and reinstalling a head. I'd also recommend replacing all of the lifters instead of just those two. It will cost more, but you'll have a new set and won't have to worry about them for a long time. We used to let thee new lifters sit submerged in oil for at least three days before installing them. The theory was that it would give the oil time to work it's way inside the lifters and then the lifters would be pretty well pumped up. I don't know how much truth there is to that, but I still do the same thing today. I figure that at least it won't hurt them.

 

[Suleiman Saadeh]

Thank you again for all the advice. I'm by no means a mechanic and this is my first time getting into an engine like this. I'll definitely do that with the oil.

I was already thinking of getting a whole set of pushrods and didnt think about the lifters. I only ordered 2 pushrods but I'm gonna inspect the others tomorrow. I'll more than likely take your advice about replacing all the lifters so they'll be new.

Do you mean the square bolt at the rear driver side of the valley pan? I didnt see any other nuts but I'm not in front of the truck so I may have missed it. Also I bent the part of the valley pan that I believe is a gasket that fits up against the heads. It is definitely creased and and I'm sure cracked. Should I replace the valley pan gasket since I've already bent it?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Do you mean the square bolt at the rear driver side of the valley pan? I didnt see any other nuts but I'm not in front of the truck so I may have missed it. Also I bent the part of the valley pan that I believe is a gasket that fits up against the heads. It is definitely creased and and I'm sure cracked. Should I replace the valley pan gasket since I've already bent it?

Yep. That's it. I was wrong. It is a bolt. If the valley pan is in that bad of shape, then I'd replace it too.

 

[Suleiman Saadeh]

This is what the pushrod did to my piston. Do you think that's really cause for concern? I dont think it is major but just wanted an opinion.

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[IDIBRONCO]

Glow plug tips will do similar things to a piston when a tip breaks off. I'd turn the engine over by hand until this piston is above the deck of the block and then take a file to gently remove anything that sticks up higher than the top of the piston. That's the most that I'd do to it. Since the aluminum of the piston is softer than the cast iron of the head, any high parts should already be smashed enough for it to not be much of an issue. If you take a file to the piston, put some rags, paper towels, etc. down to catch the shavings so that they won't end up in the oil.

 

[Suleiman Saadeh]

Come to think of it the tip of the glow plug for that cylinder was broke off so that could very well have added insult to injury.

I had noticed it wa broke but had forgotten by the time I got the valve covers off and saw the pushrod and broken bolt and then piston. That piston obviously took the brunt of the load on that foolish starting fluid incident.

 

[snicklas]

I’d say that damage has to be from the glow plug. I don’t see how a pushrod would ever get into the cylinder on a running engine. The pushrod is completely isolated from the cylinder. Now, I could see getting a round mark from a valve hitting the piston if a bent pushrod or bad lifter caused the valve to hang open. I don’t see any valve contact marks in that picture. What looks like reliefs for valve clearance,is actually the Riccaro chamber that’s part of the design of the piston.

I’ve seen piston damage from a dropped valve, glow plug tip, a grenaded turbo, or something coming in through the intake, like a small fastener that would make it through the valve.

Now, if the engine grenaded, all bets are off where parts end up. But I’d say with some certainty, those dents are from a glow plug tip......

 

[Suleiman Saadeh]

I’d say that damage has to be from the glow plug. I don’t see how a pushrod would ever get into the cylinder on a running engine. The pushrod is completely isolated from the cylinder. Now, I could see getting a round mark from a valve hitting the piston if a bent pushrod or bad lifter caused the valve to hang open. I don’t see any valve contact marks in that picture. What looks like reliefs for valve clearance,is actually the Riccaro chamber that’s part of the design of the piston.

I’ve seen piston damage from a dropped valve, glow plug tip, a grenaded turbo, or something coming in through the intake, like a small fastener that would make it through the valve.

Now, if the engine grenaded, all bets are off where parts end up. But I’d say with some certainty, those dents are from a glow plug tip......

I agree with you on the glowplug. The tip of the glowplug above that cylinder was broke off but no other ones were.

What do you mean by grenaded?

 

[snicklas]

Grenaded - fail violently and scatter parts everywhere.

I know of an IDI that dropped a valve. You could hear parts hit the pavement, bouncing and hitting the bottom of the truck......

 

[DrCharles]

Probably kept running too

 

[CaptBuffalo]

Grenaded - fail violently and scatter parts everywhere.

I know of an IDI that dropped a valve. You could hear parts hit the pavement, bouncing and hitting the bottom of the truck......

My my Kawasaki ninja dropped a valve at 16,000 rpm all it did was make a "pop" and then ran on 2 cylinders lol.

 

[Hydro-idi]

My my Kawasaki ninja dropped a valve at 16,000 rpm all it did was make a "pop" and then ran on 2 cylinders lol.