Pulling the Motor

[apextrans]

This is sorta an extention of the other thread But I need different advice. I've been reading the Chilton's manual & it says to remove this & that prior to pulling the motor out. How much do I really need to take off to get the motor out? I plan on removing everything I can in front of the motor & bring it out in more of a forward than upward lift. Will that work & allow me to leave most of the accessories intact until it's time to swap over on the stand? Tonkadoctor, PLEASE chime in. IIRC you just did this, didn't you?

 

[Bean]

Pull the front header panel, cross brace, rad., IC, bumper and you will have a nice open front end to pull it right out. pull your fuel lines loose, heater hoses, p/s hoses, take AC pump off and with a fender cover on the pass side fender fold over the condenser over the fender and take the pump with it over there so you dont have to break the lines loose. Pull the tranny loose and there is also a ground on the back of the driver side head. Pull the starter and just let it hang. turbo will have to come off but the up pipes and stuff can stay.

Takes us about 3-4hrs to yank one, one guy workin on it, should be able to do it in about 8hrs I would say if you stay at it.

 

[pafixitman]

Scott,
Can't help w/ "how to" but if you need a hoist, mine is 2 ton and available, delivered to your door.

 

[apextrans]

If your in the neighbor hood, BRING IT WITH YOU!!! Thanks. How about an engine stand?

 

[apextrans]

Pull the front header panel, cross brace, rad., IC, bumper and you will have a nice open front end to pull it right out. pull your fuel lines loose, heater hoses, p/s hoses, take AC pump off and with a fender cover on the pass side fender fold over the condenser over the fender and take the pump with it over there so you dont have to break the lines loose. Pull the tranny loose and there is also a ground on the back of the driver side head. Pull the starter and just let it hang. turbo will have to come off but the up pipes and stuff can stay.

Takes us about 3-4hrs to yank one, one guy workin on it, should be able to do it in about 8hrs I would say if you stay at it.

Hey,

I talked to Dusty today for a while about this. He's a really good guy you got there. Thanks for chiming in on this & in the other thread. Might be a few days before I get to pull it with work & all but it's coming out. I'll call down there tomorrow & talk to you or Dusty 'bout what I want to do, but do you guys offer a stout short or long block?

 

[pafixitman]

No stand, sorry. I can get it to you this week. Wednesday or Thursday?? I can drive the truck either day (Steph needs a car those days, otherwise I'm driving her Explorer...CEL on the Concorde )

 

[apextrans]

That works. Give me a call & let me know what day works. I may be in the Pete but donna should be around if I'm not here.

I'll check with a couple of my dealers on the other thing you asked about in the PM. Typing all over the place & forgot to mention that.

 

[Agnem]

Not sure if it is less trouble or not, but I've watched Bob over at my Ford dealer do many of these, and he just takes the body mounts loose, and raises the whole cab and front clip up with his lift. I know you don't have a lift, but if the pro's think it takes less time to do it that way, maybe it's worth trying to rig something up.

 

[94f450sd]

are you keeping the truck?are you gonna get a new or used engine?

if you are keeping it,getting used engine and want to hot rod it get a 95-97 engine.they are the same as yours but you will need to swap over your manifolds,up pipes,turbo,mounts,oil cooler,HPOP reservoir,valve cover gaskets.and possibly the front cover and oil pan,not sure about those those.take the fuel pump and filter off and plug the fuel pump hole with a freeze plug.

with a used 95-97 motor you are about 95% gauranteed to get one with forged rods instead of the PMRs.

 

[JLDickmon]

Scott, easiest thing to do is pull the front sheet metal as a clip.. leave the coolers, etc in it... disconnect all the wires and hoses and you have (as I recall - it's been a while)... like eight bolts per side = sixteen bolts and you have all the access you want...

 

[apextrans]

Well I made a good bit of headway today. I didn't see your post 'til just now bear. This will work well enough I guess. Looks like it will come straight out. I was going to try to leave as much on it as I can, then dismantle on the stand. What absolutely has to come off to get it out the front. Here's some pictures of today's festivities.

Oh, I found a way to make the damn thing fit in the garage!! (last picture )

 

[94f450sd]

take everything off the front of the motor.i believe the turbo has to come off as you need as much clearance in the back as you can get so you can lift it high enough for the oil pan to clear the frame.

 

[apextrans]

take everything off the front of the motor.i believe the turbo has to come off as you need as much clearance in the back as you can get so you can lift it high enough for the oil pan to clear the frame.

Damn, I was thinking it would come thru the opening I have there with all the front accessories intact. Just had the turbo off a few weeks back so that should come off pretty easy. Can I leave the pedastal on unitl I get it out?

 

[94f450sd]

you dont NEED to remove all the accessories but it makes it lighter in the front and easier to work with.you can leave the pedistal on but isnt it easier to just take it out with the turbo?

 

[apextrans]

I don't remember exactly, but I think I had to get the turbo off to get at the pedestal bolts. Maybe not though. I had 3 different things going on when I did the wicked wheel. HPOP, EBPV delete, & the wicked wheel. Maybe it will all come out together.