Pulled a 1987 out of a hole

trancas

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Remember that if you try and run off a Gas Can Connected Directly to the Lift Pump ( not injection pump ) that Fuel Tank Selector Valve will allow System to Suck Air through any Disconnected Return Lines.
I discovered this when I had selector valve set to empty front tank and put hose in gs can. Once I switched to full rear tank, System would finally purge and truck started fine. Actually, when I was done, rear tank had more in it from the return line! I was wondering why at idle it was taking so much Fuel from the gas can.....
 

captain720

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At the risk of thread jacking my own thread……..

We are looking at a 97PSD 7.3 for my wife, I test drove it it runs mint all the fluids are clean it has some front suspension looseness and bald tires. It has 285K on it and the exterior is almost flawless although the interior is missing a door panel and the dash is cracked. Bottom line is does this sound like a decent rig for 5K?
 

SkylabTech86IDI

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Either pump will work, straight arm or bent arm.
Point the Arm towards the bottom of the Pan, then level it off, push Pump onto the block, Then screw in the first Bolt by hand then the second one. Then snug them down.

You want the Arm under the Cam.

The Pump I bought, made in Korea, the holes in the Gasket were too small for the Bolts. I used a HF Hole punch to make them the right size.

I used some Permatex brown goop and glued the gasket to the Pump. Lined it up and shoved it into place.

I came in from the top side to replace it, I read you can do it from under the truck.
Disconnect your Batteries first
Remove the Alternator and set aside
Lift out the vac pump with hose and set aside
Remove the big bracket the Fuel Filter bolt to and set aside

You will have to disconnect the hard Fuel line to between the pump and filter and remove.
Cut the rubber curly Q hose in 2.

Remove the 2 bolts that hold the pump in, and lift out the old pump.
Shove a rag into the hole and clean off the area of grease/dirt etc...

I eliminated the hard line,and used rubber hose to the Filter. Screw in a barb fitting into the pump and filter head.
Use 3/8" hose.

Attach new pump
then bolt on all the parts removed to get to the pump.
Remove the Filter off the big bracket to make it easier to bolt it back on, just 2 bolts.

Replace the curly Q hose and the rubber hose to the filter or the factory hard line if you want to keep it. But remember the hard line has those Olive seals that will probably need replacing.
I filled the rubber hose with ATF before attaching to the Filter to eliminate any air getting into the system.

As I remember you need to tighten the Alt belt first before the Vac belt.
Connect batteries and hope for the best.

I replaced my Lift Pump because it was leaking out the bottom of it.
When I drove the truck the first time, it really had more acceleration. I guess the old Pump was not supplying enough pressure.


Goat.
Great write up. Im going to steal your idea to remove the hard fuel inlet line going to the fuel pump and replace it with a clear plastic line.
 

Nero

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At the risk of thread jacking my own thread……..

We are looking at a 97PSD 7.3 for my wife, I test drove it it runs mint all the fluids are clean it has some front suspension looseness and bald tires. It has 285K on it and the exterior is almost flawless although the interior is missing a door panel and the dash is cracked. Bottom line is does this sound like a decent rig for 5K?
Trans last rebuild date is my only concern, but if all fluids look good... Either it's good or he just changed them for a sale. 285k without receipts is.... 285k... With no service history.
 

captain720

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I guess it’s time for me to start a thread in the powersmoke section. We got the price down to where it was a pretty good deal.
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captain720

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I changed my glow plugs and I had two that measured 0 and the rest were 0.3 ish ohmes and I replaced with my CDD wiring harness. All the new ones measured 0.3 ohmes and starting doesn’t seem to have changed much. All the old ones were Berus.
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captain720

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Something seems to be wrong with the glow plug controller and it is after glowing my plugs a bunch. I thought maybe something was up with the WTS light but I pulled over to check and the controller behind the air cleaner was quite unreasonably warm so I am hopping that my brand new motocraft ZD29s didn’t get cooked or expanded as I pulled over and disconnected the plug harness reasonable quickly and now I am at work with no glow plug system at all.

To make it work again don’t I just need to trigger that solonoid with a push button instead of the factory whatever it is? Currently I am down and off the road
 

captain720

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According to wiring guides found on the forum I need to remove the white wire from the controller and ground it via a switch to control the plugs. But whether or not that wire is connected has no effect on the status of the solonoid. Also the solonoid has a 1 bolt voltage drop in it is it supposed to be that large?
 

captain720

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If you switch the white wire to ground it works fine and gives you a push button system but it only makes sense when the plugs are connected if you test things with a multi meter with the plugs disconnected everything goes all whacky and that was the source of my problems. I was troubleshooting without the plugs connected and once I connected them the system made more sense but I didn’t want to be troubleshooting and heating them a bunch which is why I had them disconnected.
 

captain720

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I have done some more research and as I already have brand new ZD29 plugs I think CDDs manual conversion kit is the ticket.


I have done some more trouble shooting and the factory controller is ticking and clacking and freaking out all the time from the minute key is on to when key is off. I can make the plugs glow with my push button just fine but the controller is freaking out and sometimes randomly somehow glows the plugs all by itself the only unfortunate thing is I just bought CDDs new glow plug wires and now I will no longer need those as they are included in the controller conversion kit.
 

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