Promise... the build

[Jason1377]

I have followed this thread and looks great hate to see total cost of all that. Have a question where did you find that ODB1 scanner most local parts stores only sell ODB2 scanner/readers,there is a harbor freight near me but people have no clue what I am talking about.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The old truck with a C-6 was at 3400 RPM, by 50 MPH!!!

So it was basically governed out at 50 MPH? How low of gears did you have in there? They did all that brake work and it feels like something's dragging. Did you call and complain about it? At the least, they shouldn't make you pay for that since the work wasn't done right. What they really should do is to get it back to the shop and fix the brakes right. The truck should go on either a trailer or a rollback to prevent farther damage.

 

[Selahdoor]

I have followed this thread and looks great hate to see total cost of all that. Have a question where did you find that ODB1 scanner most local parts stores only sell ODB2 scanner/readers,there is a harbor freight near me but people have no clue what I am talking about.

Here is the reader:
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-...words=obd1+scanner+ford&qid=1572313721&sr=8-4

It is recommended that you also get the extension cable:
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3149-...ords=obd1+scanner+ford&qid=1572313721&sr=8-16

So it was basically governed out at 50 MPH? How low of gears did you have in there? They did all that brake work and it feels like something's dragging. Did you call and complain about it? At the least, they shouldn't make you pay for that since the work wasn't done right. What they really should do is to get it back to the shop and fix the brakes right. The truck should go on either a trailer or a rollback to prevent farther damage.

I don't think it is as bad as that.

It does drive just fine. And 1600 rpm at 65mph, doesn't indicate any huge drag.

I'll drive it a bit and see if things loosen up.

I will probably jack it up at each corner and see if there is any drag when I spin the wheels. Also going to check the bearings.

 

[ClifFord]

I've had that problem before in my 94 IDI. I couldn't figure it out so I ran with it, till it was too late. It ended up being the axle bearings. The end result was the bearing blew up and then pieces of bearing and cage went into to axle tube and ran so hot that the axle ciezed in the tube. I had to replace the whole rear end. I hope it's just a over adjusted star adjuster in your drum or a spring that popped loose. Hope it all works out.

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[Selahdoor]

I've had that problem before in my 94 IDI. I couldn't figure it out so I ran with it, till it was too late. It ended up being the axle bearings. The end result was the bearing blew up and then pieces of bearing and cage went into to axle tube and ran so hot that the axle ciezed in the tube. I had to replace the whole rear end. I hope it's just a over adjusted star adjuster in your drum or a spring that popped loose. Hope it all works out.

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You posted while I was editing above.

 

[Selahdoor]

First thing I will do tomorrow is get in it, put it in neutral, and see if it rolls smoothly down the hill.

 

[Chief]

First thing I will do tomorrow is get in it, put it in neutral, and see if it rolls smoothly down the hill.

I think that’s a good place to start. If that doesn’t help find the problem, jacking it up and spinning the wheels should do it. I’m thinking it’s the bearings.

 

[RetiringColt]

Sounds like the shop goofed up on your breaks. If you don't find anything wrong right away. It could be your brake booster. Between the booster and the master cylinder there is a rod with a small adjustable end. If that end is adjusted slightly too far it will make the brakes drag when vacuum is applied. I believe you want about 1/32nd inch gap between the rod end and the Master cylinder piston. But the shop you used should make it right with you. I'd give em a call first. I've also had those ceramic caliper pistons stick and drag too out of the box (reman calipers). But usually only one not both. Pulls hard to one side while driving. Your gonna have a like new truck soon! Maybe some paint in the future...?

 

[YJMike92]

First thing I will do tomorrow is get in it, put it in neutral, and see if it rolls smoothly down the hill.

It should roll easily on just a slight incline if the brakes are the way they should be. Even on a flat surface going slow in neutral you should not feel the truck braking at all.

 

[Selahdoor]

Sounds like the shop goofed up on your breaks. If you don't find anything wrong right away. It could be your brake booster. Between the booster and the master cylinder there is a rod with a small adjustable end. If that end is adjusted slightly too far it will make the brakes drag when vacuum is applied. I believe you want about 1/32nd inch gap between the rod end and the Master cylinder piston. But the shop you used should make it right with you. I'd give em a call first. I've also had those ceramic caliper pistons stick and drag too out of the box (reman calipers). But usually only one not both. Pulls hard to one side while driving. Your gonna have a like new truck soon! Maybe some paint in the future...?

Thank you. Good info!

Going to test this out as much as I can, before making that call.

Yes, I do plan to paint it in the future. And yes, it'll almost be like a new truck.

It should roll easily on just a slight incline if the brakes are the way they should be. Even on a flat surface going slow in neutral you should not feel the truck braking at all.

I'm going to test this first, in the driveway, and the road leading here.

But I figure it's going to be difficult to know, because of the gravel and bumps and such. So I'll seek out some pavement somewhere at a slight incline, and test it there as well.

 

[Selahdoor]

Ok... So, overdrive, and the lock up torque converter are two different things, no?

Get up to 60mph... Tap the brakes... No difference whatever in RPMs.

But, get to 60... RPMs are ~1500-1600... It has definitely shifted into 4th. Now, push the overdrive button on the stalk... Immediate change in the transmission, and immediate jump to at least 2200 RPMs.

So, I am thinking the trans is shifting into 4th, just fine, (overdrive), but the TC is not locking up.

Unless the two are "synonymous". As in, if it shifts to 4th the TC locks up. Together that constitutes overdrive. Hit the button to turn off overdrive, and it unlocks the TC AND shifts the trans back to 3rd...


~~~

Also today: Brake light and ABS light both come on when the key is turned. The ABS light goes out. But the brake light stays on forever.

Also, first time applying the brake, at startup, brake pedal goes way down, and is spongy.

For the remainder of the test driving, the brake pedal travels further than I think it should, but the brakes stop the truck admirably.

~~~

On a steep incline, it rolls like normal.

On a slight incline, even on pavement... You have to put it in drive for a second to barely get it to rolling... And then it will roll very slowly. Like the brakes are barely applied. It SHOULD roll slowly at first, then gain momentum. It doesn't.

Plus, you have to have your foot on the gas pedal all the time, or you lose forward momentum.

At times on the highway, when you should be able to let up on the gas and coast... It immediately slows down, like you have your foot on the brakes.

Takes more gas pedal to get up to speed, than I think it should.

All in all, it just really acts like the brakes are always slightly applied.


I am going to ask them to check the pushrod in the master cylinder/vacuum booster.

And check the brakes again. As well as the bearings.

~~~

In a little bit, I'll go out there and use the OBD reader, to see if there are any codes stored. The OD light didn't flash when I put it into 4wd this time. Only difference this time is that I put it in 4lo instead of 4hi.

 

[ClifFord]

Super easy check just for all around assurance. Can you pull the E-brake pedal up while also pulling the brake release? My brake light only comes on when the E-brake is on.

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[Selahdoor]

Super easy check just for all around assurance. Can you pull the E-brake pedal up while also pulling the brake release? My brake light only comes on when the E-brake is on.

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I had thought of that and forgot. I'll go do that now...


Edit:

Ok, went out and checked.

Turned the truck on. Brake light stayed on.

Pulled the release, and pulled up on the parking brake lever... Light stayed on.

So, I pulled the release, pushed down a bit on the pedal, then ****** it back up... Light went out.


Now, I pushed on the brakes. Nothing. Pushed them again, light came back on. Pushed them several more times, and pulled up on that pedal... light still on.


Left the main pedal alone. With the light still on... Pulled the release, pushed down the park brake pedal, ****** it back up... Light went out.

Went through all that one more time, to be certain what is happening.

Yup, I think the main problem with the light is because of the parking brake lever/pedal.



Now I am wondering... Even though they said they didn't reconnect the parking brake... is it connected, and causing the entire problem?

Now I have to go and find that thread that described how to adjust that plastic piece...

 

[chillman88]

Now I am wondering... Even though they said they didn't reconnect the parking brake... is it connected, and causing the entire problem?

If it's NOT connected, the pedal assembly might not have any tension on it to hold the pedal up against the switch. Where is it actually disconnected is the question.

 

[Selahdoor]

If it's NOT connected, the pedal assembly might not have any tension on it to hold the pedal up against the switch. Where is it actually disconnected is the question.

Good question, too. I don't know where.

But it's not connected. To be sure I went back out again. Pushed it as hard as I could... Truck rolls downhill. It's not connected.

Pull the release lever, it pops back up. And it stays all the way up. Doesn't sag it's way back down. You have to actually push it to get it to move.

Still haven't found that thread about the plastic tensioner.

Supposed to be a tensioner that tightens the cables over time, to make up for stretched cables.

But you have to release it, when you replace the rear brakes, or else the cables won't reach. (Pretty much what they complained about. No, these guys don't work exclusively on our old fords, every day, so they can't be expected to know everything.)