Project: IDI International Travelall

laserjock

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Anyone know if I can use this fuel filter top from a 7.3 idi as a transmission filter head?
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Installed the clean as whistle and freshly painted oil pan tonight.. gave up on using a torque wrench after bolt 5.. hopefully the wrist torque-o-meter calibration was on point. Installed timing cover the other night and realized I torqued em all to 28ft lbs instead of 18ft lbs.. fingers crossed no issues arise.
I’m not sure the answer but it’s just a filter head. I don’t know what the pressure of the system is at the filter but I suspect with the right filter it’s a possibly. Finding a filter the right flow, right filtration, right thread size might be challenging. There are universal Wix heads that probably have more choices in filters.
 

u2slow

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BD Power's external trans filter kit uses a LFP5570 filter. Crosses to a wix 51268.

Maybe you can use those filter specs to source an appropriate base.
 

idiTravelAll

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I wanted to use it because its got the "International" stamp of approval, was worth a shot and I've been hanging on to it 3 years now maybe I'll use it as a PS filter
 

u2slow

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Why not keep it as a primary water separator fuel filter? The one on the Cummins is best as a secondary...
 

laserjock

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I wanted to use it because its got the "International" stamp of approval, was worth a shot and I've been hanging on to it 3 years now maybe I'll use it as a PS filter
Be careful using ps filters. Those systems are more finicky to backing fluid up to the point running the trans cooler on the radiator as a cooler really doesn’t work well (speaking from the idi/f-series perspective). I put one of the wix filters with the magnets on it in my hydroboost return line. Is it doing anything? I don’t know, but I feel slightly better about having it than not.
 

idiTravelAll

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Be careful using ps filters. Those systems are more finicky to backing fluid up to the point running the trans cooler on the radiator as a cooler really doesn’t work well (speaking from the idi/f-series perspective). I put one of the wix filters with the magnets on it in my hydroboost return line. Is it doing anything? I don’t know, but I feel slightly better about having it than not.
Right on thanks for the insight I'll just scrap the idea and probably toss a magnafine on the ps.
 

idiTravelAll

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Been slacking on updates...

Still got work to do, main thing is steering shaft needs to be lengthened. Started spraying the raptor liner through a 2.5mm hvlp, takes forever, 1 liter takes over an hour to spray and its only 1 hr potlife.. not sure if I'm going to send 10hrs making 1/2 batches or just use the schutz gun and not have the smooth texture
 
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idiTravelAll

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Picked up a 1.4mm purple HF gun, sprayed with ease but ran out of material, she's covered but not uniform, im planning to respray during the Spring.
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idiTravelAll

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The beast lives! Wouldn't let me upload video, pulled CAC to mock up the radiator, hopefully get both back in tomorrow, and need to reclock the turbo.. after scooting the engine back with 24v mounts the charge pipe wants to hit my shock mount.

Anyone know what's up with my slipyoke setup? It had a ton of what appears to be black RTV all over the splines, didn't redo the RTV after I had the driveshaft shortened and diff fluid was dripping out of the small hole on the xfer case rear output seal.
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Peeled all of that off
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Here's the small hole in the seal
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Is the xfer case just too full? Let it drip for now? Or redo the RTV on the splines and fill the hole with RTV?
 

bilbo

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I don’t believe there should be any rtv on the splines, just spline grease. I think there are special products for that but I have always ended up using moly axle grease as it’s what I had around.

I think that little hole is a weep hole so you know if the seal is bad. The actual shaft seal is in the bore, behind that rubber boot thing. I don’t know why the seal has the extra rubber boot thing, maybe to try and keep big dirt chunks away from the actual lip seal? I have seen output shaft seals both with and without them.
 

idiTravelAll

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I don’t believe there should be any rtv on the splines, just spline grease. I think there are special products for that but I have always ended up using moly axle grease as it’s what I had around.

I think that little hole is a weep hole so you know if the seal is bad. The actual shaft seal is in the bore, behind that rubber boot thing. I don’t know why the seal has the extra rubber boot thing, maybe to try and keep big dirt chunks away from the actual lip seal? I have seen output shaft seals both with and without them.
Right on, I'll blast it full of moly, if I notice it still leaking I'll replace the seal. Thanks man! About to get out there right now.
 

u2slow

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The RTV is probably an indication it came from a truck with a 2-piece rear driveshaft. In that arrangement (in theory) the tcase output slip-yoke doesn't need to slide because of the slipjoint at the support bearing.

It may be a hasty attempt to seal a leaky tcase... possibly a last resort after several seal changes when what the tcase needs is new bearings.
 

idiTravelAll

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The RTV is probably an indication it came from a truck with a 2-piece rear driveshaft. In that arrangement (in theory) the tcase output slip-yoke doesn't need to slide because of the slipjoint at the support bearing.

It may be a hasty attempt to seal a leaky tcase... possibly a last resort after several seal changes when what the tcase needs is new bearings.
It definitely had a 2 piece with carrier bearing before we shortened the frame. I loaded it up with moly and will monitor hopefully no leaks for a bit, after replacing timing cover and oil pan gaskets im getting close to 50 psi oil pressure, its previous life in the dodge never went over 40 psi
 

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