Project Big Red

[laserjock]

No I used the TSC Majik truck/tractor/implement stuff. That's what I did the rest of the frame in. I brushed it on the frame because it was dead of winter. Sanded lightly then hit it with another coat with the gun before I shot the black on. I used the flat black with hardener which makes the matte black not matte black... by a lot. Gloss rattle can matches pretty good. I went that route so it would be easy to touch up as I go. I figure with the frame sandblasted, it ought to be good long enough that I won't care when it falls off. I cheated and rattle canned the primer on the housing because I was in a hurry and didn't have time to clean up the gun last night. I'll probably try to get the paint on it tomorrow.

The spring blocks were Amazon. Pro Comp. Best price I found. Say they are for a newer truck.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F0M828/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The research I did says they should work. I found a review for the same PN that the guy said he used them on his 92 and they fit perfect. They look right in the picture. Didn't get them out of the box last night. Looks like I will have a spare set of U-bolts. They or may not be the right length. I'll let you know how they work soon.

 

[laserjock]

*** Note! The taper blocks turned out to be a bad idea and caused a driveline vibration that was later fixed with a custom set of flat blocks.

Alrighty, got the lift blocks and fitted them. I think they will be great.

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PN is in my other thread on these but I believe they are for a 99-03 F350 but seem to work great. They are tapered but I think that will be fine. It should straighten the driveline a bit.

Got the axle in paint tonight.

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And a couple other bits.

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Carrier bearing support and front track bar.

Picked up a set of rear drums. Took a chance on a set of rear drums. Had a Wagner part number listed. $32 and free shipping. As heavy as they are they were basically free. Alas, made in china on the side of the box. But they look right.

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Guess we will give them a try. Just need shoes and I'll have complete rear brakes less the lines and hoses.

This thing is going in tomorrow and the front diff is next up. If all goes well, I could possibly have a roller by Monday if the front checks out well.

Forgive the frequent posts. I've found using this as a motivational tool helps keep me going because I want to have progress to report.

Thanks for looking.

 

[laserjock]

Small update. Got the front diff up on the table. After much cursing and grunting, the dually adapters are off.

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I also drained the fluid to have a look at the gears. No pics yet but everything looks really clean. No obvious damage or wear. I have found some slop in the pinion that I'm trying to diagnose. It needs a new seal regardless so as soon as I can get an 1 5/16" socket, I'll try to tighten up the nut and see if the slop goes away. If it does and the preload and pattern look okay, I think we will get a new seal, nut and button it back up for cleaning and painting. Going to have to do something with the pass side hub as the plastic knob is not behaving. The D50 has a nice set of warren hubs that I may clean up and swap out but I haven't decided yet if it's smarter to do that or buy a new set or just repair what's there.

Anyway, that's where things are. Then I have to decide how far I'm tearing the thing down. I may go ahead and pull the axles and replace the u joints and seals since I'm taking it apart to check/change/pack wheel bearings anyway. I should never have to screw with it again if I do it now. And working on it sitting on the table is a lot nicer than on the ground.

 

[laserjock]

One of the plastic knobs on my 60 feels not so great so I pulled the hubs off the old 50. Before:

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And after:

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I think they are okay. The inner snap ring flew out at me as I pulled the cap and gear on the one side. It all looks good and in tact. A little clean up and some fresh grease and I think it will be fine. Will need some new bolts and outer o-rings. though. About have the bolts were missing or broke off. I ordered the 1 5/16" socket for the pinion nut. Hopefully that will be good news.

 

[junk]

Locking hubs cleaned up great. Those are the higher end Warn hubs I believe with the metal selector. I'd definitely run them.

 

[laserjock]

Yeah they are all metal 9/10 turn hubs. I think they are in good working order. Like I said freaked me out that the snap ring popped out at me. Other than that a good cleaning and greasing and they should be good.

 

[laserjock]

I don't have a lot to report but I thought I would link these other threads into the build thread for continuity. I'll edit as I go.

Working on my D60
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showpost.php?p=806917

Rear spring blocks

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showpost.php?p=805764

Drum brake findings

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showpost.php?p=806160

 

[laserjock]

Okay. Well. I didn't want to do a full rebuild of the D60, but looks like that's what's happening. Spent a whole bunch of money today. Just FYI
Dana OEM kingpin kit was $70 per side at bronco graveyard.

Spindle bearing seal kit also $25

Universal joints grease able were ~$45 from amazon.

In the mean time, I tore the housing down to the king pins. Picked up a axle tube cleaning brush.... They come in several colors.

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In the mean time, I beat the universal joints out. They were bad.

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That job sucked. I hate universal joints. I did find a use for an old body mount. I stuck it on the spindle splines so they wouldn't get beat against the floor as I was using the BFH method to remove the old U joints.

I now have a huge pile of parts to clean and paint including the housing, springs, spindles, knuckles, brake caliper mounts and dust shields. Guess that will be next weekend and it can start going back together.

 

[junk]

I got the same axle brush! Only mine sits beside the toilet. Axle is looking good. Were your king pins bad, or are you changing them because your doing everything else? I didn't change mine, but always wondered if they should be.

 

[laserjock]

I put pictures up in another thread. I guess I should add it here.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?69533-Would-you-change-these

If you look at them, one of them has a pretty good bit of pitting and rust near the bottom, the other has some mild pitting on it. If I were doing a super low buck build, I'd probably buff them up with some scotch brite and throw new bushings at them and be done. What you can't see in the pics is that the rubber seals on the lowers were not all that great, and one of the lowers was missing the grease fitting all together. I still need to investigate that and figure out if it is missing or broken off. The lowers are getting cleaned up and reused with new bearing and seals because of what I found there.

So to answer your question, it's about 50/50 need vs. while I'm in there. The good news is as they say, you should only ever have to do this once. If or when I go find a crew cab, you can bet all the good stuff will move over to it.

 

[prepowerstroke]

So how much money you think you have in it so far? And how much you think your going to have in it when it's done?


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[laserjock]

The whole truck or just the front diff? The diff will end up being about $500 hub to hub with the parts I scavenged and not counting the parts truck cost which donated the front, rear diffs, core support, misc other stuff. At a cost of $1500.

The whole truck I'm looking at an estimate of completion just south of $20k. Now before you freak out, that includes buying a parts truck and not selling or scrapping anything. It is also assuming a ridiculously high budget for what would essentially be a upgraded reman promar engine which I probably won't do. I've done several things I didn't intend to do you know... Like a frame off resto.

I think a realistic number by the time I'm done will be $15-16k. But it will be about as new a 91 ford truck as you can find with several nice upgrades.

Missed the original question. I'm about 10k in now with all the caveats above.

 

[prepowerstroke]

Maybe I missed something while reading this but u said you already have about 10k in it? What all did you buy? Lol


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[laserjock]

I guess there is no harm in showing this. You asked.

Truck 4200
Parts truck 1500
Sandblast 250
Paint frame 100
Fuel tanks. 150
Hydroboost. 360
Seats. 340
Console. 65
Steering column. 160
Steering wheel. 65
Alt harness. 12
Radiator. 220
Spring hangers. 90
Seat cover rear. 45
Rear seat belts. 25
Tow the parts truck. 150

Frame parts x member. 100
Spring pads. 27
Spring tie bolts. 8
Grill. 28

Turbo only. 910
Bushing kit. 200
Spring hardware u bolts. 115
Frame hardware bolts. 100
Hitch class V. 165

Turbo kit parts. 300
Brake drums. 67
More frame bolts. 69

Pinion bearing. 18
King pin kits. 145
Spindle bearing seal kits. 55
Universal joints. 88
Pinion seal and nut. 15


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Sub total. $ 10044

I don't know if that's going to come out looking like a mess or not but all the info is there. Phone cut and paste.

Like I said, there is nothing here accounting for recovery of funds from selling off parts and I've got a handful of things to sell that I know will be easy sells for decent money once I'm ready to do that. The parts truck has already paid for itself even with the D60 needing rebuilt. So there you have it. It's the little stuff that gets you and I am doing a lot of stuff all at once. It wouldn't have had to been done all at once.

 

[prepowerstroke]

Ohh ha all the little stuff adds up lol and yeah might as well do all this stuff now while you have it apart so You don't have to tear back into it later


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