Preparing for first start

dirtbiker

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Hey guys,

I'm new here. I just picked up a 79 F150 4x4 shortbed regular cab... With a 6.9 diesel swapped in. Engine, trans and transfer case are all in and mounted. It's a 4 speed manual. As it sits, it still needs to be wired, and needs fuel lines and so on. The previous owner says the injection pump was just rebuilt, and it got new injectors, glow plugs, along with all new gaskets throughout the engine (it was taken apart). I'm pretty sure it'll run good, but before I go finishing all the wiring and everything else, I want to actually hear it run. I'd hate to get the truck all back together only to find it runs like crap. My question to you guys is: What should I do to prepare this thing for it's first start in a long time? There's currently no oil in it, so obviously I'll add oil, put a new oil filter on it, and I will change the fuel filter as well. Are there any other things I should do in particular before I get the basic wiring in place for it's first start?

Thanks guys, I'm sure I'll have many questions as I go along, so thanks in advance! And I'll have pictures up as soon as I can, I know that's a must!

EDIT: I also forgot to add, the engine doesn't currently have exhaust manifolds... Can I start it like this? I don't think diesels rely on back pressure like gas engines do, and I'd rather not drop money on exhaust manifolds until I know it runs.
 
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dgr

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Buy a video camera. I want to hear it run without manifolds on there.

If it was mine, I would
Run the fuel lines
Put oil in it
Pull the glow plugs
Crack all the injection lines loose
Run a jumper to the FSS on the injection pump
Grab a phone book*
Put in some ear plugs
Crank until the the lines are ******* fuel
Snug up the lines
put the glow plugs in
Start it

What are you going to be able to tell with the engine running with no manifolds on there? I imagine it is going to be painfully loud and probably not going to be in it's happy place.
 

oregon96psd

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^ grab a board not a phone book, they'll suck the pages of a phone book through themselves
 

riotwarrior

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Ok this is fine...

Yes to run with no manifolds however it will be loud.

Add oil and coolant as required, yes to new filters...those wont hurt

I'd suggest remove GP's and spin engine over a bit with OIL IN IT...help get some oil pumping throughout it as required.

Then top fuel filter with ATF or diesel...

Connect a feed line to the lift pump (SUCK SIDE) and stick that into a jerry can of clean fresh diesel

Wire a switch in series to the FSS on IP turn on/off listen for clicking in IP. If here it good sign.

Make sure you have a board that fits over/COVERS the intake so you can CHOKE off the engine if it goes into run away!

LOOSEN injectors, and WITH GP's out still turn over engine till you get diesel at each injector, tighten them all down.

Install GP's and your good to attempt to fire engine up now!

JM2CW...

AL
 

blackbear

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i too am about to start a engine that has been sitting awhile. what is the purpose of removing the glow plugs? can you just disconnect the harness from each glow plug? i assume you can run the engine for a bit with no coolant and be safe?
 

oregon96psd

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Makes it easier for the starter to spin over while priming the fuel/oil. Also a good idea cause if there is any fluid in them it just blows it out the holes. I started mine after i did headgaskets with no manifolds, valve covers and no coolant, I ran it for about a minute then shut it off. I'm sure people will tell you that you'll crack/warp something but they dont really build any heat sitting and idling.
 

dgr

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Makes it easier for the starter to spin over while priming the fuel/oil. Also a good idea cause if there is any fluid in them it just blows it out the holes.
That
You buy something usually from someone who is wanting to sell it. If you can't hear it run before handing over cash, assume the worst and hope for the best. A little water in a cylinder would be a real bummer.

Forgot to add, may as well connect a charger to it while you are messing around.
 

blackbear

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not to take away from the original poster, i just put the engine in the truck this evening and was planning to hook everything up tomorrow. how would i hook up the wiring so that it will not start up in order to prime the oil and fuel? what would cause a engine to run away?
 

Dave Barbieri

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Unhook the wiring connector to the fuel supply solenoid (FSS). On the top of your injection pump, you'll see two electrical connectors on the driver's side. The FSS connector is the one at the front. When you take it loose, the IP no longer gets a signal to let fuel flow into it for injection. No fuel = no start.

A diesel engine runs away when it gets more fuel than it's designed to handle. This uncontrollable supply of fuel causes the engine to speed up faster and faster until it destroys itself. Diesel tech's will tell you that runaway actually describes what the technicians are doing when this occurs. :D Keep in mind that to a diesel engine, fuel can be diesel fuel or engine oil. A diesel engine will happily run on either.
 

dgr

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Black bear,
If you have the lines connected to the injectors but loosened a half turn, the fuel will fill the lines but not open the injectors. You have to have a signal to the fss to prime the lines

If you know the history of the IP, a run away is not likely. OP stated the IP was just rebuilt from the prior owner. We don't know its history thus the caution. Ever since I put a new old U haul rebuilt ip in and the engine went to 2000 rpm on first start, i have been a little paranoid. Underwear aren't cheap :)
 

blackbear

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thank you both! ive been running around all morning chasing small things, so now im going to start connecting wires and finish torquing bolts. hopefully by this evening i can try and turn it over. maybe ill open a new thread for this when i reach that point?
 

dirtbiker

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Alright guys, thanks. As far as the thing with the manifolds: I just want to hear the thing run so I know it does, before I go putting money into things such as manifolds. Thanks!
 

icanfixall

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You can run these engines for probably 2 or 3 minutes without heating them up so have at it. Is this engine on the ground or on a stand... The reason for removing the glow plugs is to allow the engine to crank longer and faster. Its kinda like a compression release valve in each cylinder. Be careful because these engines will push out plenty of 400 + lbs of compression thru that tuny hole. Lay a rag over the heads to shield your eyes and face from "stuff" being thrown up at you. The injection pump have one large electrical connection and a small one. The connecter closest to the gear cover on the front of the engine is the fuel shut off solenoid. That needs power to open and no power shuts off the fuel flow to kill the engine. If the top of the enjection pump has been removed and not reinstalled properly the engine will run away. No amount of shutting off the fuel nor the power to the pump will kill the engine. You have to shut off the air going to the engine with a piece od wood that fits over the intake manifold inlet. If you have a turbo be really carefull around that intake. The spinning turbo fan will be turning about 130,000 rpm. At 120,000 rpm the shaft is spinning 2000 rpm per second... They will eat off the ends of you fingers fast. They can pull your hand into them too if you try to cover the intake with your hand... Don't laugh... It has been done before... See it on utuerbe if you have a stomache for that stuff... Think of a meat grinder and your hand... Shocking to say the least.... All you need to fire the engine is oil in the pan and power to the injection fuel shutoff valve A can of diesel held up high for gravity feed will help too. It will be loud without manifolds. Do you have manifolds for it. If not any pickup truck manifold be it 6.9 o 7.3 idi will fit. Only the drivers side is differant from the vans to the trucks too.
 

dirtbiker

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You can run these engines for probably 2 or 3 minutes without heating them up so have at it. Is this engine on the ground or on a stand... The reason for removing the glow plugs is to allow the engine to crank longer and faster. Its kinda like a compression release valve in each cylinder. Be careful because these engines will push out plenty of 400 + lbs of compression thru that tuny hole. Lay a rag over the heads to shield your eyes and face from "stuff" being thrown up at you. The injection pump have one large electrical connection and a small one. The connecter closest to the gear cover on the front of the engine is the fuel shut off solenoid. That needs power to open and no power shuts off the fuel flow to kill the engine. If the top of the enjection pump has been removed and not reinstalled properly the engine will run away. No amount of shutting off the fuel nor the power to the pump will kill the engine. You have to shut off the air going to the engine with a piece od wood that fits over the intake manifold inlet. If you have a turbo be really carefull around that intake. The spinning turbo fan will be turning about 130,000 rpm. At 120,000 rpm the shaft is spinning 2000 rpm per second... They will eat off the ends of you fingers fast. They can pull your hand into them too if you try to cover the intake with your hand... Don't laugh... It has been done before... See it on utuerbe if you have a stomache for that stuff... Think of a meat grinder and your hand... Shocking to say the least.... All you need to fire the engine is oil in the pan and power to the injection fuel shutoff valve A can of diesel held up high for gravity feed will help too. It will be loud without manifolds. Do you have manifolds for it. If not any pickup truck manifold be it 6.9 o 7.3 idi will fit. Only the drivers side is differant from the vans to the trucks too.

The engine is mounted in the truck... And it's N/A, no turbo. I just want to start it to see it runs before I go and hook everything else up. But thanks for the useful info man!
 
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