preemptive strike

[IDIoit]

as my 7.3 runs really good,
i really really dont like the looks of the engine compartment.
its not somthing im going to be doing right away, so i have time to collect parts!

im running a 94 7.3 stock 093 ATS.
the only mods i have done is a 3" DP, timed, and adjusted the waistegate a bit.
i dont wanna mess with anything else.

i would love to build a monster for this beast i have been creating for the past 6 months.
reality tells me it wont be for a few years, and with 2 kids on the way, more than likely parts will be bought very slowly
(probally spend all my tax return money for the next couple of years)

what i want is a bran spankin new engine!
what is the best core for me to buy?
i believe stock turbo connecting rods are forged, but what about the cranks?
it would be nice if scat, eagle, or any other place sold some bada$$ rotating assemblys.

thoughts and suggestions please!

 

[icanfixall]

Nearly every internal part of the idi is the same part. The 6.9 crank and rods are the same as any 7.3 except the turbo rods. So a 6.9 crank will run fine in a turbo 7.3 but please have ALL the rotating parts balanced. The hype about the turbo blocks having thicker main webs is false. Every idi engine uses the same rod and main bearings. So where is the measurement taken? On the raw casting?

 

[3Kp]

Glad you brought this up IDIoit. I was wondering if you could buy a whole built engine. I thought I ran across ( I believe was Mel) that was working on drop in dynoed motors. Wonder if he ever came up with a cost of one yet?

I've also thought of trying to do one myself (kinda scary thought there in it self ) I've never done such a task before. I've read few engine build threads but always wonder if they rebuild the lower half of the motor and what kits they used.

 

[IDIoit]

I've done about 20 engines. All gassers tho. I won't do the machine work, I'll have it bored, honed, possibly align bored. And any extra casting flash removed. And powder coated inside and out. For looks and better oiling.
Crank will be turned shot peened and balanced. Rods will be checked, made round shot peened as well and balanced.

 

[C_Luft]

I had a 7.3t long block for sale a few months ago, if made the trip up here I would have gladly given it to you or a member if they made the trip to pick it up.

 

[IDIoit]

Forgot to mention, when I ballance the crank, rods, and slugs. The flywheel, and balancer will be going with it.

What about the material that the turbo 7.3, crank and rods are made of?

Cast iron, Nodular iron?
Or forged steel?

I'd bet the material is different inbetween the 6.9 and the 7.3t

I don't think the "create" engines are ready yet, if I was Mel, I would be building 5 or more as R&D finances
Permit, then setting a baseline price. He knows that they will go like hot akes. But as a business man
You can't open the market without your I's dotted and T's are crossed.

C-luft, I'm warming up the 7.3 powered Delorean, see you a few months ago!

 

[C_Luft]

Engine builder mag says all of the 6.9-7.3t crank shafts are forged steel but doesn't specifically say what the rods are made of, my guess would be forged steel also.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2006/07/rebuilding-the-international-6-97-3l-powerstroke-engine/

 

[BDCarrillo]

The hype about the turbo blocks having thicker main webs is false. Every idi engine uses the same rod and main bearings. So where is the measurement taken? On the raw casting?

Hate to argue, but the measurement is above where the bearings are, outward to the block. That's the actual "web." No different than a 351 having thicker webs and using the same bearings as a 302.

I only have a stripped NA block handy, so I can't directly measure them to compare.

 

[IDIoit]

Here's a bump. Hoping to find the exact differences in between the turbo and N/A rods.

 

[towcat]

all cranks and rods are forged with the best material avail.
the difference between the oem turbo motors is in the details such as specific turbo pistons with larger wristpins. Hence, if you put in turbo rods, you will need turbo pistons.

 

[C_Luft]

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Piston pin bore diameter difference (for connecting rod)
Turbo
1.3086 in. (21.45 cm)

N/A
1.1104 in. (18.2 cm) (a post from the diesel stop)

 

[IDIoit]

Thanks the both of you!!! That's exactly what I was looking for!
This will be a turbo engine with the turbo pistons.
The larger wrist pin looks far superior.
Appreciate the insight!

Are these wrist pins floating or pressed?

 

[towcat]

the pins are full float.
do your homework first. be sure you can get a set of oversize turbo pistons before you get started.
personally, I am not fully convinced it's a worthwhile upgrade. two reasons.
one. you now have a non-standard part in a engine family that uses most of the same parts.
two. there is anecdotal evidence that the main cause of death for the oem turbo motors is the larger wristpin and the lack of oiling.

 

[IDIoit]

The engine I'm running now is a 94 stock 7.3T,
What I want is a rebuilt engine, same engine , that I can have ready to go, completely wired, broken in on a stand, to where I can
Spend 6 hours or less and have it swapped.pneumatics do make this possible.
I have gotten my pontiacs to where I have a spare 354 on a engine break in stand, ready to swap in at a moments notice.
Believe it or not buy me and my brother have gotten it to where if we blow a engine at the track, we can be back up and running before hey shut the tree off. I've always had this mindset it's just the way I was built lol
I will be looking into oversized pistons. Soon as I get a rebuild able core.
Think my biggest challenge will be to find a place that can accurately check these blocks for cracks and more importantly signs of cavitation.

 

[towcat]

what you're looking for is a guy who has equipment to sonic check the wall thickness of your block.
a machine shop in Pleasonton who bought my sonic checker may still be around, I haven't heard from him in a while now.
i do have a oem turbo motor, but it is seized tight from overheating, the truck is getting stripped in may or june of 2015 and can yield a set of rods by that time if you haven't found a set then.