Pre Pump Fuel Filter

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Sweet. I can probably hook up some sort of nice shut off valve to that filter head too.

 

[sle2115]

I run a 2 micron Perma Cool pre-pump, have for four or five years. Filter assembly is $35 at summit, spin on elements are $14.95 and have a water drain.

 

[icanfixall]

Where are you getting all this stuff that cloggs up the screen in the pump??? If you can find a big truck wrecking yard look for a filter that got a clear glass or plastic bowl on it. Thats basically a knockout pot. What it does is slows down the fluid flow thru it. Then the large trash pieces drop out and the clean fluid continues thru the filter. There is no restriction to flow because you don't have a filtering element for the fuel to travel thru. Its just a large container where the heavys drop out of suspension due to the decreased speed of the fluid. It flows fluid out the other side just as fast as it flows into this... Just slows down in the larger area... Science is funny sometimes..

 

[SparkandFire]

I know exactly what your talking about, Gary... My Racor unit has a amber plastic bowl on the bottom, and I noticed after my last fill up I had a fair amount of sand in the bottom of the bowl.

I took the bowl off and dumped it, and will not be buying diesel from AM/PM anymore!!!

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

The best solution I have came up with ahead of all the other pumps and filtering devices in my system is a plain old thirty-dollar GOLDENROD unit.

These have a clear see-thru plastic bowl that is much deeper than the element itself, thus allowing any sediment to settle into the bottom.

Once a year, I drain and rinse the bowl; this can be done without disturbing the filter element.

I have the electric pump in a stand-by by-pass line and use the mechanical piston-lift-pump as my main pump; immediately ahead of each pump is a plain old cheapie see-thru plastic in-line filter (99-cents if you shop around); I carry a sack full of spares.

It is not desirable to have a super fine filter ahead of the lift-pump(s); what you want is something to catch the big chunks that would otherwise clog the inlet screen.

You want the really fine filter(s) located after the lift-pump(s) and ahead of the injection-pump.

My system, from tank(s) to injector-pump, is first the GOLDENROD, then a LUCAS glass-bowl water-seperating sediment bowl, a DE-BUG magnetic organism-killing unit, the simple plastic inline filter(s), the lift-pump(s), and then the main FLEETGUARD water-seperating fuel-filter with integral drain (the drain-**** is made onto the filter canister).


If I were relying solely on an electric pump, I would install TWO of them, plumbed such that I could operate off of either pump by simply rotating a valve and flipping a switch.

I would switch back and forth between pumps at each fill-up, thus always knowing that either pump could be called upon in an emergency.

A MECHANICAL fuel-pressure gauge plumbed in the outlet side of the last filter before the injection-pump is the most useful gauge you can have; TWO are even better, one being immediately on the outlet from the lift-pump and the other located as already explained.

The savings in needlessly replacing fuel-filters will pay for the gauges in very short order.

 

[pybyr]

Would one of these work instead of the pair of gauges?

http://www.filterminder.com/fuelmonitors.asp

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Would one of these work instead of the pair of gauges?

http://www.filterminder.com/fuelmonitors.asp

Those are better than nothing, but are not near so good as gauges visible from the driver seat.

Also, they only give you an idea that the filter is restricted (from vacuum/suction on the intake side, if I understand correctly); there is no way to discern if it merely drew down from a really hungry injection-pump.

With dash-mounted gauges, you can instantly see what the fuel-pressure is at any instant.

If I were relying solely on an electric pump, I would install TWO of them, plumbed such that I could operate off of either pump by simply rotating a valve and flipping a switch.

I will add to my above statement that, on my truck, the two seperate lift-pumps (one mechanical, the other electric) are isolated from each other by check-valves both fore and aft of the pumps and the electric can be brought into play by simply flipping the switch.

 

[pybyr]

What about one single gauge of the type referred to as a "differential pressure gauge" (measures the difference in pressure between two lines, rather than a single line vs. atmospheric pressure). I know where to get and industrial surplus one that measures zero to 2 inches of water column pressure difference-- but I don't know what level of pressure drop across the filter would be OK, so can't tell whether such a gauge would work. Input appreciated.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

What about one single gauge of the type referred to as a "differential pressure gauge" (measures the difference in pressure between two lines, rather than a single line vs. atmospheric pressure). I know where to get and industrial surplus one that measures zero to 2 inches of water column pressure difference-- but I don't know what level of pressure drop across the filter would be OK, so can't tell whether such a gauge would work. Input appreciated.

Plain old mechanical pressure gauges, measuring in PSI, are much easier to understand.

The gauge need not specifically say "fuel pressure"; all of mine say "water pressure"; all pressure gauges are the same; one that specifically says it is for fuel will cost five times as much as the identical gauge labeled oil or water.

It is ideal to have the range of the gauge such that the optimum reading is in the center of the scale.

A 200-PSI oil-pressure gauge would not be a good candidate for a 7-PSI fuel system.

For most low pressure diesel fuel systems, a gauge with a 16-PSI maximum reading would be ideal for a 7- to 9-PSI lift-pump.

I use 30- to 35-PSI gauges because my piston-lift-pumps hold a steady 14- to 18-PSI, thus the needle points to the center of the dial when all is well.

 

[Pino2234]

My system, from tank(s) to injector-pump, is first the GOLDENROD, then a LUCAS glass-bowl water-seperating sediment bowl, a DE-BUG magnetic organism-killing unit, the simple plastic inline filter(s), the lift-pump(s), and then the main FLEETGUARD water-seperating fuel-filter with integral drain (the drain-**** is made onto the filter canister).

Why would you need the simple plastic inline filter if you already have the goldenrod filter ahead of everything?

 

[Pino2234]

Here are the pics of my setup. I have a goldenrod screen before the carter fuel pump.

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