Possible new truck, won't start?

jrad235

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Found an '87 F20 on CL, has 7.3l w/ revised GP's. Harness is trashed. Put jumper wire on FSS, jumper cables on battery, and fired a shot of ether at it and no go. What gives? Doesn't even pop.

It sounds like it is spinning ok(Well, a hell of a lot slower than my current one), but even if it was low, wouldn't it cough on ether?

The truck is cheap, but it's only 2wd, and kinda beat. Needs a hood and god knows what else. sitting for several years.

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/4135136176.html

What do you guys think?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Are you sure it's a 7.3? *7 was the "crossover" year. They came out with 6.9's that were dressed to look like 7.3's. The injector pump gear housing, the glow plugs, controller, and maybe even the fuel filter and housing were the same as the 7.3. You can clean off the serial number on the driver's side behind the ip gear housing. It will start with 6.9 or 7.3. That tells you what size the engine is. If you don't want to do that, try to put a 7/16" or 1/2" 12 point wrench on a head bolt. 6.9's had 7/16" heads while 7.3's had 1/2" heads. Either way, it's a good buy for that price even if you just strip parts off of it for your future use.
 

jrad235

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IDK, I'm just not seeing any money parts on it. I was unaware they dressed the 6.9 as a 7.3. It must be a 6.9 then because the visor has starting instructions for a 6.9L on it. At least one of the injector line nuts is cracked, GP harness didn't look very intact, probably needs a starter. Seat not great, C6 trans(Guessing) What could I POSSIBLY sell off this pile? Hell, the block isn't even good what with that stupid heater crack that develops on those. Can't even pull start it to see if it will run.
 

vegas39

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IDK, I'm just not seeing any money parts on it. I was unaware they dressed the 6.9 as a 7.3. It must be a 6.9 then because the visor has starting instructions for a 6.9L on it. At least one of the injector line nuts is cracked, GP harness didn't look very intact, probably needs a starter. Seat not great, C6 trans(Guessing) What could I POSSIBLY sell off this pile? Hell, the block isn't even good what with that stupid heater crack that develops on those. Can't even pull start it to see if it will run.

The block heater/block cracking issue was solved before 86, so as far as that goes, the block would be fine.
 

icanfixall

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Clean off the top of the block on the drivers side of the injection pump gear housing. There you will find the block serial numbers stamped into the block. The will tell you 6.9 or 7.3 because thats how the numbers start off in the serial numbers. simple isn't it. Sometimes you may have to cut away some of the factory rtv that seals up the gear cover. No big deal either.
 

texcl

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on the bright side it looks pretty rust free, if I could find a rust free parts truck in the 93 range for $500 I'd jump all over it.
 

jrad235

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Title won't be an issue. Sounds like it ran strong before it sat, I'm thinking the starter is ****, causing slow crank, thus no heat to fire. The ***** of it is, even with block heater and gp's, if the starter is toast you CAN NOT make it pop off. Damn automatics. I think I'm gonna pick it up tomorrow. Turns out it's an 88 and it does have the 7.3. Too bad it is v-belt/c6.

Anything I should know?
 

sethalot

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Check the cables/terminals. Mine had the same issue, slow crank with no popping on any cylinders even with ether. I replaced the batteries and starter but that didn't change a thing. I ended up cutting the cables, crimping new terminals and like magic it fired right up.
 

jrad235

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Good idea. I think I would want to put cables in first, the insulation on them is shot! Thanks for the idea. Maybe I'll get lucky!
 

Wyreth

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the 87 6.9 is pretty much indistinguishable from the 7.3. They still had the 6.9 water sep, fuel filter, and fuel heater... but if it was an engine swap, those my have been kept.

Also, my 87 will not start on ether strangely enough. In fact it sound down right f'in scary when you give it a jet of it. Like snapped rod scary. Good glowplugs, or block heater is the only way to get it moving. With good cranking speed that is.

The 87 6.9 is in my opinion the best of the IDI blocks. All the benefits of the 7.3, with the 6.9's thicker cylinder walls. Hell I'd pay $500 for a good 87 6.9 ANY day.
 

jrad235

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Argh. I hate waiting. I want this thing home and torn apart so I can find out if I made a mistake or not.
 

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