Porting idi heads

Frstdiesel

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A pyrometer and boost gauge are mounted on the dash.
This truck was not running when I got it so not sure what it did in the past.
I want longevity with decent power for my intended use.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Russ (Typ4) can do some machining on these early Banks turbos to make more boost and start making it at a lower RPM. If the pyrometer is located in the factory location on these turbos, it doesn't read correctly. The factory location is right before the turbo, but to get accurate temp readings, you need to mount it within 8 inches from where the exhaust comes out of the head.
 

Frstdiesel

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Thanks for that info on pyro location. That makes sense.
What upgrades does Russ perform on these older turbos?
 

Macrobb

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Erm... I see no problems with the EGT probe right before the turbo - yes, it will be lower, but remember, it's just a reference.
In that spot, 1200F is a good short-term limit, but I try to keep it under 1000F for longer term(>5 minutes).
 

gerlbaum

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You can fit a 60-1 backing plate, compressor wheel, and compressor housing on that turbo without any machining and keeps the turbo in exactly the same location. Turbine side will have to remain the same.
 

gerlbaum

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It maybe adds a few psi, but psi doesn't mean as much as volume of air. A sink may produce the same psi as the Colorado River, but guess which one flows more.
 

Garbage_Mechan

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No doubt turbocharging makes the most dramatic change on these engines and pushing air through the ports instead of pulling it makes up for a lot of port work. However, I'm one who can never leave things alone that can be improved even if just a little.
I have ported a 7.3 with a Banks early turbo on it. It was the best running 7.3 I've seen. Made a difference in the low rpm.
I ported a 6.9 with out a turbo. best running 6.9 I ever built.

Both of them I did myself and focused on the area under the seat, the radius and just general clean up. Did not make anything "bigger"

Worth doing if you do it yourself.
 

Frstdiesel

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Sweet.
I've decided to take a look at the exhaust side and under the seats. Sounds like it won't take much.
The Ford 400 heads I did, even though they are the Cleveland style ports, they still needed a pretty good bit of grinding especially in the exhaust port, the huge "EGR" bump.
I'll see what the turbo will do as is before I do anything to it.
First thing I have to do is get the broken bolts out of the exhaust turbine housing. All but one of the 5/16" stainless bolts twisted off when I took it apart.
Thanks
 

77f250diesel

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Russ fits a larger compressor wheel and machines the compressor housing.
I went from 8-10 lbs. max boost to easily ******* my 15 lb. gauge.
 

IDIBRONCO

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When porting, I don't do a lot under the valve seats. Mostly just clean up and smoothing. I do try to "round over" the edge of the "bump" where the valve guide sits, especially for the exhaust valves. In my opinion, it should make it flow a little bit better. Sure it would be a small difference, but when you're doing something this serious, even the small differences add up to make larger ones. Yes, a turbo does make a bigger difference than porting, but doesn't the porting just add to the turbo? I think that it does. Again, little gains. If doing this gains you "only" 5 hp, it's still 5 hp that you didn't have before.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I sure hope so. I'm hoping to have the engine set back in by Sunday night. I'm going to be running it N/A for a little bit longer. I have a camping/ATV riding event coming up in two weeks and would like to use it then. Hopefully, it won't be too much longer after that when I'll actually have the turbo installed too.
 

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