May I ask what gauge the wire should be for making a push button for the gp from the fender to where the controller/relay is an do you remove the whole og go set up after you make the new push button set up
I have done 2 different setups with a push button.
The first one, was actually pretty simple. It was on my previous truck, and the factory system was still 100% intact, but occasionally the controller wouldn't run the plugs. On that one, I ran a 12 gauge wire from the factory controller relay, on the small post where the white wire goes, through a push button in the dash, and to ground. I left the factory white wire from the controller in place, so the controller could still run the plugs, but I could also manually override the controller with the push button. So this truck could run 100% factory with the controller running the plugs, or manual with the button. Most of the time, I just let the controller do it's job, but if it didn't, I would push the button, run the plugs manually and the truck would start like normal.
On this truck, the engine harness is a nightmare. I've not looked under the turbo, but I do not see a factory controller anywhere in the engine compartment. On the drivers side valve cover, there is a relocate bracket for the glow plug controller (this truck has an early Hypermax turbo, the one that has a cast extension and uses the factory air cleaner, moved forward of it's normal location), and on this bracket is a "round metal can" style relay.
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This is connected to what is left of the factory harness, and a wire was run into the cab to a push button to trigger the relay. The plugs haven't worked since we got the truck in early November, however, the engine is healthy enough it will fire with just the block heater and 6 or 7 seconds of cranking, or a whiff of ether.
So my plans are, use a heavy duty relay, like the White Rogers 586 602 200 Amp, 12 volt relay:
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mounted on the relocation bracket. More than likely I will use one of the pre-made 4 gauge starter solenoid to starter lead (I've had good luck with these in other uses). This lead will run from the starter solenoid on the passenger fender, to the high current side of the relay.
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Then from the other high current lug of the relay, I will more than likely use 8 or 10 gauge wire to each plug with a new bullet connector at the plug end. I haven't decided how I'm going to gather the relay end together to connect to the relay. I have a couple ideas, but still not 100 set on a method yet. I will run a trigger wire to a momentary push button in the cab. I will unhook the original two yellow supply wires from the starter solenoid, and depending on what I find, will either abandon in place, or remove all the factory glow plug wiring. The wiring for the gauge senders seem to work, so I don't want to damage that wiring.
The IP is already on it's own dedicated switch from a previous owner. Not sure if the factory control wiring for the IP works, but the wire to the fuel heater has been "repaired". I haven't checked to see if the fuse is blown, but I'm not going to replace the fuse until i have a chance to do a through check of the wiring. The pot metal actuator broke during the cold snap we had at the first of the year, fortunately it broke in the "run" position. So we can still run the truck, and I have a push button for the starter. So even after I replace the pot metal piece, I will continue to use the push button for the starter, to help keep the stress off the actuator. The current setup for the IP is not the best (it's a chunk of orange drop cord the PO used), so I am going to replace the wires to the IP and toggle switch, and run new control wires for the starter and glow plug relay. The rest of the wiring will remain factory. If I find the wiring for the IP is not damaged, and it is just a blown fuse, I will inspect all the wiring, and if it is just from the heater, I will cut out and clean up wiring to the heater, and put the IP control back on the key/factory wiring. If it is in as bad of shape as I think it might be, the current bypass will stay, just be re-run with a better setup. I am also going to address the throttle cable at the same time. My son is picking up another vehicle tomorrow, so I can work in the truck and keep it out of service for longer than a day...........
