Pics of my 7.3 IDI Buildup...

[riotwarrior]

Arfin sweet build man. That is one nice looking setup. Tell me is that a sleeved block? If so what those run? How are the held in place? lip top and bottom?

Looks alot like a PS turbo but not sure.

Why no porting?

Nice headers too.

Love the camo on the wife/GF

again awesome build and great pics too BTW....Oh ya...why so much grease in bearing grooves? makes more sense to grease bearing and leave grooves open for immediate oil pressure...JM2CW

 

[IHDiesel445]

Who said I didn't do port work? Hehe not much just some "clean up" work.

The block is sleeved down to a 4.00" bore. Retained by a shoulder machined at the bottom of the cylinder.

The turbo is a stock turbo... for a 12.7L Detroit Series 60 with the 425hp rating (but it's supposedly an aftermarket "performance" model). I did a lot of math and pored through a lot of compressor maps and found that particular one matched what I was trying to do perfectly. We'll see what happens real-world...

The girl in camo is a Navy buddy of mine who used to be on my ship. She's out now, married, and attending an automotive technical school. We're still good friends and as a school project she's helping me out with my buildup. I get an extra pair of hands and she gets to take credit for the experience.

 

[racer30]

I think you should read up on forced induction camshaft dynamics. the stock cam has to much duration and overlap. the type4 cam would work good but with the build you have here a # 1006 grind from oregon cam grinding would pull to 5000 rpm and give you -14.5* of valve overlap to keep that turbo spoolled and .410 intake and .425 exhaust lift to flow more than the .380 stock cam valve lift best 200.00 bucks you will spend on this build.

 

[429idi]

I've seen a few posts on here about iat's an thought I would show you this.

Tout = {Tin + Tin x [-1+(Pout/Pin)0.263]} / efficiency

Tout= temperature out
Tin= tempurature in
Pout= pressure out
Pin= pressure in

all scales are absolute
pressure= gauge pressure + 14.7
temp= degrees Fahrenheit + 460 (converts to Rankine)

Even with 100% compressor efficiency on a 70 degree day if you are running 15lbs of boost your iat's are going to be 170 degrees F. 25lbs boost will get you 228. with 70% efficiency those numbers go to 221 and 296 Unless you use something to cool it, which you are. As far as I know, speed has nothing to do with the heating of the air.

By the way, that looks like an awesome build, a lot like what I want to do. How much boost do you plan on running? Any hp estimates?

 

[towtruckdave]

How much to make a set of those ex. manifolds? I just want the manifolds and up pipes.

 

[88beast]

i emailed stans headers to see if hed make me a rayjay style manifold waiting for a reply

 

[Jbevs]

Very cool build! What model cub cadet you riding in there?

 

[bike-maker]

I look at those Detroit Series 60's at work. That's a huge ass turbo. The ones I see have a valve that varies the amount of airflow through the turbo. It's would be really nice to try to use one, but could probably take a computer to control it.

 

[IHDiesel445]

How much to make a set of those ex. manifolds? I just want the manifolds and up pipes.

About $250 or so in materials... Plus a LOT of time cutting, fitting, and welding. Plus another 200 or so for ceramic coating.

Or were you talking about having me make you a set? Might could make that happen...

 

[IHDiesel445]

Very cool build! What model cub cadet you riding in there?

That's a 1968 104. A guy traded me even for a beat up, blown up 1650. He said the engine wouldn't run right, and he was just going to take it to the scrap heap. Turned out all the was wrong was the governor wasn't adjusted correctly. The engine had been shortblocked and the governor linkage was put together wrong. After correcting this, and a new set of tires, it's a hell of a nice tractor!

 

[hesutton]

Good to have another Sutton here on OB. I'd love to hear more about the C-ring set up from Hypermax. I'm planning on using their C-rings and headgasket for my DT466. With their set up, you supposedly can reused the same gasket and C-rings over and over again.

Did you use Melling or Darton sleeves? Who did your piston and rod work? Is the turbo going to poke out from under the hood ? If you get it finished by the Rally, please bring it so we call all drool over it, bug you to death with questions, and see what crazy numbers it puts out on the dyno.

If would be great if you listed all the stuff done and the suppliers. As far as I know, you are the only IDI guy to accutally build a real performance IDI that all the dreamers talk about building. More will follow if they know were to get the goodies.

One more question......What are you doing for an IP and injectors?

Heath

 

[IHDiesel445]

Heath,

The C-ring setup from Hypermax is impressive. They are designed with the open end of the "C" facing inward. This allow combustion pressure to "inflate" the ring against the head and into the groove cut in the block. Basically, the more pressure applied, the harder the ring seals (to a point of course). For perspective, that famous 1200hp IDI from back in the early '90s running 150psi of boost used this exact same kit... Don't think I'm gonna be able to hurt it with one turbo. Also, this same type of C-ring is what is used in rocket boosters such as the space shuttle...

I would have to ask the machine shop to be sure, but I think Darton sleeves were used. The same place did my rod work and piston milling. Felt's Machine Shop in Suffolk, VA. A great bunch of folks that know what they're doing. They have done tractor pull engines before, and are an old school, no frills automotive machine shop. Just there to make a living, and charge very reasonable rates.

The ceramic coating of both my pistons and exhaust parts is done by Thermal Tec Coatings of Hopewell, VA. Also a pleasant bunch to do buisiness with, and I lot cheaper than one might expect for something so hi-tech!

Yes, the turbo will stick through the hood. A lot. I'm going to need to install a cowl hood to cover it.

For the time being, I'm using stock IP and G-code injectors. Both acquired from Pensacola Diesel. I know some guys here might have had unpleasant experiences with their parts, but for the money, the parts are decent and I've had good luck with the pump I bought from them. These will be used for the "break in" period of about 5,000 miles or so. After that, I'm looking to have my old injectors redone to flow more fuel, and I'm researching using a DB4 (4 plunger) rotor in the DB2 pump. I'm looking for a pump shop that might be able to do this... So no crazy horsepower nimbers until I replace the stock pump.

And I would LOVE to bring this thing to the IDI rally! Not sure if I'll be able to get there yet given that I'm not sure where I'll be or where I'll be working in July, but if I can get up there to PA, believe me I will!

 

[88 Ford]

Heath,

The C-ring setup from Hypermax is impressive. They are designed with the open end of the "C" facing inward. This allow combustion pressure to "inflate" the ring against the head and into the groove cut in the block. Basically, the more pressure applied, the harder the ring seals (to a point of course). For perspective, that famous 1200hp IDI from back in the early '90s running 150psi of boost used this exact same kit... Don't think I'm gonna be able to hurt it with one turbo. Also, this same type of C-ring is what is used in rocket boosters such as the space shuttle...

I would have to ask the machine shop to be sure, but I think Darton sleeves were used. The same place did my rod work and piston milling. Felt's Machine Shop in Suffolk, VA. A great bunch of folks that know what they're doing. They have done tractor pull engines before, and are an old school, no frills automotive machine shop. Just there to make a living, and charge very reasonable rates.

The ceramic coating of both my pistons and exhaust parts is done by Thermal Tec Coatings of Hopewell, VA. Also a pleasant bunch to do buisiness with, and I lot cheaper than one might expect for something so hi-tech!

Yes, the turbo will stick through the hood. A lot. I'm going to need to install a cowl hood to cover it.

For the time being, I'm using stock IP and G-code injectors. Both acquired from Pensacola Diesel. I know some guys here might have had unpleasant experiences with their parts, but for the money, the parts are decent and I've had good luck with the pump I bought from them. These will be used for the "break in" period of about 5,000 miles or so. After that, I'm looking to have my old injectors redone to flow more fuel, and I'm researching using a DB4 (4 plunger) rotor in the DB2 pump. I'm looking for a pump shop that might be able to do this... So no crazy horsepower nimbers until I replace the stock pump.

And I would LOVE to bring this thing to the IDI rally! Not sure if I'll be able to get there yet given that I'm not sure where I'll be or where I'll be working in July, but if I can get up there to PA, believe me I will!

Damn dude that is ne hella crazy build!! I'm excited to hear your final results. What boost level are you wanting to hit. You definitely will have a damn powerful idi. Lol. Also you might be able to talk to Mel and get his builder to build you a Super Moose pump and some Super Moose Misters. I have the Moose pump and it puts out some fuel. Idk just a thought. It might work for you though. Also what's your rate in the Navy? Just curious.

 

[IHDiesel445]

88 Ford,

CTR2(SW) Sutton here

With the right pump, my turbo is sized for 40-50 psi at 4500 RPM. No way that will happen on a stock pump, but still should be in the 25-35 psi range.

If the Super Moose will move the fuel I need, that might be worth a look. Trying for about 4x what a stock pump moves... That why I was wanting to go from 2 plungers to four.

 

[88beast]

bolt up 2 cp4 pumps theres a 15k kit for it but i think a machine shop could make the kit cheaper cp4 is the one on the 4bt iirc if not i mean 4bt pumps