Opening extra cab widows, 98 f150 window into a 93 f250?

[marmot]

I am looking for an extra cab window to replace my drivers side fixed window on the 93 f250 which is broken, I know I know how can a fixed window be broken right Anyway I can get a good deal on a 98 extracab window that has the hinges and opens, which would be great if it fits. Anyone know if 98 windows fit a 93??? Thanks
Marmot

 

[79jasper]

You would need to do some cutting and welding, iirc.

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[laserjock]

The 98 I think is like my 2001 F150. I thought about doing the same thing. They are very different shapes and sizes. The newer window has a lot more curvature to it where the OBS window is almost flat. I'm sure it could be done but staring at it a few minutes scared me off. The phyiscal dimensions are pretty different too. It would be quite the fabrication project.

 

[IDIoit]

if its flat glass, any glass shop can cut it for pretty cheap.
i had a piece safety glass cut for the windsheild for my hotrod for 65 bucks...

 

[laserjock]

Notice I said the OBS is almost flat.

 

[marmot]

ya I thought it was too good to be true, I wish we had a real scrap yard. Looks like I'll be paying for shipping again. Thanks fellas.

 

[madpogue]

Notice I said the OBS is almost flat.

Not only that, it's not just glass. Window and frame, and studs to mount it into the cab structure, are all integrated. So even if it were plumb flat, a glass shop could not just make an opening version of it from scratch.

Note to the OP - when you install that glass, put some loctite on the studs. And if you're so inclined, yank the trim on the other side and do that window as well. Torque is 22 INCH-pounds, so make sure you have a good VERY LOW RANGE torque wrench. Studs were not originally loctite-ed, and at such low torque, they're infamous for the nuts working loose. Dunno if any have fallen out, but they work loose enough that rain water can get in between the wall layers of the cab and settle at the bottom. This is a major reason why EC trucks rust back there; it's the salt spray on the outside teaming up with the pooled water on the inside. We discovered this with a garden hose test, and when I took the interior trim off and inspected, all the nuts on both sides were finger-loose.

 

[marmot]

Not only that, it's not just glass. Window and frame, and studs to mount it into the cab structure, are all integrated. So even if it were plumb flat, a glass shop could not just make an opening version of it from scratch.

Note to the OP - when you install that glass, put some loctite on the studs. And if you're so inclined, yank the trim on the other side and do that window as well. Torque is 22 INCH-pounds, so make sure you have a good VERY LOW RANGE torque wrench. Studs were not originally loctite-ed, and at such low torque, they're infamous for the nuts working loose. Dunno if any have fallen out, but they work loose enough that rain water can get in between the wall layers of the cab and settle at the bottom. This is a major reason why EC trucks rust back there; it's the salt spray on the outside teaming up with the pooled water on the inside. We discovered this with a garden hose test, and when I took the interior trim off and inspected, all the nuts on both sides were finger-loose.

Yep mine were all finger tight, but the low humidity saved me, no rust.