Only one tie rod can be adjusted

[ifrythings]

Makes sense. Better airbags have lifetime warranty though. Plus being able to adjust it much easier to suit the RV weight is handy. Sometimes its heavier behind the axle if the grey tank has water in it.

The helper springs run about $100 more for a set plus mounting kit. Probably is the bettter option.

There are 3500lb (3510) and 2500lb (9510) versions, not much different in price. Not sure which would be better. Too much help wouldn't be good either.

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Plus the 3" leaf mounting hardware kit:

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The spring shops around my area won’t sell those add on springs like that, they say they put too much stress on the main leaf causing them to break. My sister bought a f150 that had something like that on it and the springs were all broken, hence how I found out. Personally I wouldn’t run it, there’s a couple spring outfits that have great prices, I haven’t used them as shipping to Canada would be brutal.

https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/leaf...MIyuLarYno5gIV0Rx9Ch1UhAUGEAAYASAAEgJMSfD_BwE

https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/

 

[Cubey]

The spring shops around my area won’t sell those add on springs like that, they say they put too much stress on the main leaf causing them to break. My sister bought a f150 that had something like that on it and the springs were all broken, hence how I found out. Personally I wouldn’t run it, there’s a couple spring outfits that have great prices, I haven’t used them as shipping to Canada would be brutal.

https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/leaf...MIyuLarYno5gIV0Rx9Ch1UhAUGEAAYASAAEgJMSfD_BwE

https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/

Yeah, SD Truck Springs is one I have checked. They are about the cheapest online

The basic 10 leaf (3,235 lb/each) "43-623" ones are $400/pair
https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7433

Or the heavy duty 10 leaf (4000 lb/each) "43-623HD" are $530/pair.
https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7435

Plus $150 (commercial address) or $200 (residential) shipping. I could probably get a truck accessories/RV shop owner friend to receive them at his shop for me to save me $50.

The basic 10 leaf might be plenty? Considering Ford put 4 leaf ones on here.

What's weird is the 4 leaf replacement is rated 3300lbs, slightly more than the basic 10 leaf's 3235lbs. Not sure how. Different arches having to do with it? They are the same 3" width, so it's not.

https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=20878

I'm guessing that more leafs means it's stiffer than less leafs, since it's more rigid?

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[franklin2]

The spring shops around my area won’t sell those add on springs like that, they say they put too much stress on the main leaf causing them to break. My sister bought a f150 that had something like that on it and the springs were all broken, hence how I found out. Personally I wouldn’t run it, there’s a couple spring outfits that have great prices, I haven’t used them as shipping to Canada would be brutal.

https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/leaf...MIyuLarYno5gIV0Rx9Ch1UhAUGEAAYASAAEgJMSfD_BwE

https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/

We use them on a f350 at work that had a crane added to the back of it. No problems so far. I suppose they are more for leveling than anything else. We all know anything you put on the rear is not going to increase the load carrying capacity of the tires or the axle.

 

[Cubey]

The spring shops around my area won’t sell those add on springs like that, they say they put too much stress on the main leaf causing them to break. My sister bought a f150 that had something like that on it and the springs were all broken, hence how I found out.

We use them on a f350 at work that had a crane added to the back of it. No problems so far.

Well, putting them on an F150 and then overloading them would break the springs, which is probably what happened. People do crazy things as far as loads and towing.

I saw a minivan pulling a 32ft (or more) travel trailer into a free city RV park a couple months ago. Sadly, I got no pictures. Needless to say, the back of the minivan was badly overloaded. If they hit a good enough bump, their front wheels would probably lose contact with the ground.

As far as stressing the springs, air bags couldn't have that issue since they sit on top of the axle and bolt up to the frame with brackets. They would relieve help pressure on the springs, not add more.

I'm going to wait until I get the front shocks one and see how it feels. Once I started paying close attention yesterday, I could feel how the front bounces from lack of shock absorption, which makes the rear react more too since it's having to take more of the shock.

Air bags might be the ideal solution for my wants/needs, but we will see.

 

[Selahdoor]

I'm agreeing with you on the air bags.

But then, I'm not driving an RV. And my ride is extremely harsh, as it is.

 

[Cubey]

I'm agreeing with you on the air bags.

But then, I'm not driving an RV. And my ride is extremely harsh, as it is.

Air bags are far easier to adjust on the fly too vs helper springs. Just use a bike pump to add air and check the pressure with a tire gauge. Helpers require loosening hardware and moving u bolts.

 

[Selahdoor]

If I installed air bags, I'd also install on board air, and a bleed/recharge system.

 

[Cubey]

If I installed air bags, I'd also install on board air, and a bleed/recharge system.

Eh, it adds a lot to the cost. If i was using it on a truck that had the bed loaded and unloaded, it might be worth it. Id probably only adjust it if its windy and i want less sway. I have more time than money so doing it manually is fine. And i could always add it later.

 

[chillman88]

If I installed air bags, I'd also install on board air, and a bleed/recharge system.

You're as bad as me, and this is why I have so many unfinished projects. "While I'm in here I probably should...."

I'm going with the springs probably were barely adequate for the RV when new. I'd imagine you'd see a noticable improvement in ride with the bags.

 

[Cubey]

You're as bad as me, and this is why I have so many unfinished projects. "While I'm in here I probably should...."

I'm going with the springs probably were barely adequate for the RV when new. I'd imagine you'd see a noticable improvement in ride with the bags.

My thoughts exactly. They put enough to get it off the lot and nothing more.

Reading up on RV forums, a lot of people say that the rear springs are crap on Class Cs, even today. Sometimes they come with Firestone air bags but usually not. People say airbags make a world of difference when they add them after having driven without them.

I have my eye on this kit because they "jounce" bumpers inside. In the event the bags go flat for whatever reason, you can still drive have a bumper stop. You have to remove the stock rubber ones to install them, so having that inside is nice. It's only meant to let you drive to a safe place to service it, but still.

https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=50470

Lifetime warranty on them, so... yeah. $300, half the price of new springs that will probably still be a bit overloaded.

I guess that 78 Dodge Class B I had was just a rare exception for that company (Xplorer) to put huge beefy leaf springs on it, unless they were aftermarket upgraded.

 

[raydav]

However, upon inspecting my tie rods, there is only one adjustment sleeve, on the left side. The right side has none! The single sleeve on the left side adjusts the toe for both sides at once due to how the linkage is tied together, so it seems.

My 84 was like that. But when I got the 89 for it's IDI it came with a two adjustment link. Look for a later link.

And no, you don't want to center the wheel by re-positioning it on the shaft. That type of steering box has a high center at mid range to provide less slack at straight ahead.

 

[Cubey]

My 84 was like that. But when I got the 89 for it's IDI it came with a two adjustment link. Look for a later link.

And no, you don't want to center the wheel by re-positioning it on the shaft. That type of steering box has a high center at mid range to provide less slack at straight ahead.

Nah, I don't need the link, but thanks. I see that "3 piece" tie rods are available to replace the "1 piece" one. But I hate to replace a part that isn't worn out yet. I'm hoping he new shocks help the situation.

The off center steeing wheel sometimes worse than others, maybe due to lane sloping, wind, etc as a result of bad front shocks. The bad steering stabilizer bushings in the front probably aren't helping. I need to figure out how to measure the ones that are closer up to the bumper, since there's at least 5 different sizes.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

But I hate to replace a part that isn't worn out yet.

I sure do understand that. The steering linkages all feel tight. I think most (or all) of the play in my steering is in the shaft. I'm going to see in the next couple of months. I'm going to replace the shaft first. Unfortunately. I'm also going to have to replace the linkages as well since a couple of the rubber boots are dry rotted. I'm NOT going to replace just the bad one. If I have to do those, then I might as well replace them all. Then it's on to the ball joints and pivot bushings. I don't know that those are bad but, "do it once, do it right". I'll probably end up doing the leaf spring bushings too just so they are all new as well. Then, if I still have play in the steering after all of that, it'll be Red Head time!

 

[dgr]

Have you tried jacking up the body in front an inch or three and see how the wheel moves.

 

[Cubey]

Have you tried jacking up the body in front an inch or three and see how the wheel moves.

What wheel, the steering wheel? No, I haven't. I only jacked up one side at a time when I did the brake pads last year.