Only one tie rod can be adjusted

[Selahdoor]

I highly advise NOT moving the steering wheel as it will throw out the turn signal canceling position and you’ll be lucky to get the steering wheel off again ever!

If you only have one adjustment that effects toe then I would be looking at worn out springs, front end bushings and bent steering linkages before band aid fixing.

Think about that...

The turn signal cancelling position IS currently off. The steering column, and it's part of the turn signal switch/cancelling... Is where it is supposed to be. But the steering wheel is canted. It is not where it is supposed to be.

If you put the steering wheel where it is supposed to be, you'll be FIXING the turn signal cancelling. Not throwing it out.

As for getting it off again... You are correct. IF what you do is to just pound the wheel back on, where you want it.


The flat spot that matters is on the steering shaft. That will not allow the splines of the wheel to slide easily over it.

But the corresponding space in the wheel is just an empty space. It doesn't care if it has a flat, or splines below it. It will easily go anywhere at all on the shaft.

Use a dremel to cut the right grooves in the flat spot on the steering shaft. Then the wheel will slip on, at whatever position you want it, and will pull back off as easily as it did in the first place. (I've actually done this before.)


On edit: My brother fixed one by getting out the round file, and hogging out the splines inside the wheel in the right place. (He didn't have the patience for the dremel. ) Creating a new blank spot in the splines in the right place. Yeah, it worked.

If you do this, make some marks on the wheel and the shaft so you can get it back together correctly, if you fix the real problem.

 

[Cubey]

Have you done the diagnosis steps yet?

Nope. I don't have access to my floor jack and stands right now. I will in about 6-8 weeks though. I have what looks like the original jack for changing tires is all. I was hoping for a quick temporary "fix" but clearly that's not doable. So, I'll leave it alone and keep dealing with the annoyance. It's been ~3300 miles, 10 months and 8 states, so I can stand it a while longer. It doesn't feel dangerous, I don't lack steering control, it's just off center and it feels awful to drive. It's seems worse on some highways more than others, maybe due to how the road slopes and which direction the wind is blowing.

 

[franklin2]

If it drives ok and tire wear is ok, you can move the steering wheel. Technically the only thing wrong with this method is you might get the steering box off center.

The steering box is made to be high in effort and tight in the center for a good tight road feel driving straight down the highway. The gear mesh in the box is made to when the gear is off center for making turns and parking lot maneuvers it's loose and easy to turn. If you have ever tried to "tighten" the box by adjusting it, if you over do it, you can feel this tight spot in the box.

The only way to really double check this is to take the linkage loose from the box like someone else mentioned, and then carefully turn the box to the end of it's travel both ways, counting the total number of turns of the steering wheel. Then divide that by two, turn it from one stop that amount, that is the center of the box and is where you should be at when the wheels are pointed straight ahead.

 

[Cubey]

If it drives ok and tire wear is ok, you can move the steering wheel. Technically the only thing wrong with this method is you might get the steering box off center.

That's why I would mark it with a sharpie before pulling it, so it can be restored to it's former orientation without worrying about it.

I'll think about it a bit more, since I can stop at most any auto parts chain store and get a puller.

I looked up a ton of pics on ebay and in youtube video of these style steering wheels and shafts last night and it seemed that only some had the flat spot, mainly the later ones. I guess the only way to know is to go get a loaner steering wheel puller, pull it and examine it for myself. Vans got left with older designs a lot longer than trucks, like the 1970s gauges around until 1991 when trucks got changed twice by that point.

 

[nj_m715]

buy an adjustable drag link?

 

[Cubey]

buy an adjustable drag link?

Yeah, it's an option but the existing isn't worn out yet.

 

[mblaney]

The steering shaft where it connects to the steering box input spline... is it off a tooth?

 

[Cubey]

The steering shaft where it connects to the steering box input spline... is it off a tooth?

I doubt it has ever been touched since it was assembled by Ford. It's possible the tie rods are original too, since everything else has been.

 

[Cubey]

Nope, he meant springs. As they age they sag, thus shortening the distance from the knuckle to the steering gear. New springs should in theory raise the front end up back to factory ride height, thus restoring the original distance between the knuckle and gearbox.

Hm, I wonder if installing air bags in the rear would be a good way to help it back there. A full kit costs than than a single new leaf spring, and it's far less work to install them.

Front springs are cheap, and so are front air bags that install inside the springs on these vans

 

[chillman88]

Hm, I wonder if installing air bags in the rear would be a good way to help it back there. A full kit costs than than a single new leaf spring, and it's far less work to install them.

Front springs are cheap, and so are front air bags that install inside the springs on these vans

I'd do the rear air bags if I was in your position and could afford it. I plan on putting a set in my dually at some point too.

 

[Cubey]

I'd do the rear air bags if I was in your position and could afford it. I plan on putting a set in my dually at some point too.

Even with the new monroe shocks, it has a pretty good bounce at driveways and streets with dips, making it hit and drag on its skids. So yes i suspect it needs them. And it does that with no waste water back there. I wonder if its partly from basically no shocks in the front. I guess Ill find out after I put the new front bilsteins on.

 

[aggiediesel01]

Hm, I wonder if installing air bags in the rear would be a good way to help it back there. A full kit costs than than a single new leaf spring, and it's far less work to install them.

Lotsa good wrecking yards in Texas all up and down I-35 and east that I know of. Probably out west too, why not try to find a set of rear springs from a truck/van 20 or so years newer that likely rode unloaded most of it's life. That's gotta be cheaper than bags and likely less work for a better payoff.

Same for the fronts too. I bet the yards nearly give those away.

 

[Cubey]

Lotsa good wrecking yards in Texas all up and down I-35 and east that I know of. Probably out west too, why not try to find a set of rear springs from a truck/van 20 or so years newer that likely rode unloaded most of it's life. That's gotta be cheaper than bags and likely less work for a better payoff.

Same for the fronts too. I bet the yards nearly give those away.

The newest year with leaf springs to fit is a 1991 van. Vans got a lot of special/different parts from trucks too. My brake booster is only on 84-86 vans. It took 3 tries to buy a new one in a timely fashion. The first was totally wrong, and got broken in shipping anyhow. (Got a full refund, no return shipping cost). Second was sold out despite being posted on Ebay for sale, and wouldn't be back for several months they said. Third was from autozone on Ebay out of Tennessee. Their site doesn't have any and only one was up on Ebay. Got it and it fixed my poorly working power brakes.

And yes, i think the shot frobt shocks are why the rear still feels bouncy, its the front bouncing too much and making the rear tilt downward on the front's up bounce.

A lot of junk yards think their stuff is worth a lot. They want like $10-15 for used sealed beam headlights, treating them like composite

 

[franklin2]

If it drives ok, I would not mess with the ride height in the front.

I personally think air bags are more suited to a vehicle that is loaded and then unloaded. They are adjustable and that is their advantage. One disadvantage is they will not last forever. A vehicle like yours which is loaded most of the time would be be better served with a more permanent load assist. I would think a set of helwig bolt on helper springs would not be too hard to install and give you a permanent maintenance free boost in the rear weight handling.

 

[Cubey]

I personally think air bags are more suited to a vehicle that is loaded and then unloaded. They are adjustable and that is their advantage. One disadvantage is they will not last forever. A vehicle like yours which is loaded most of the time would be be better served with a more permanent load assist. I would think a set of helwig bolt on helper springs would not be too hard to install and give you a permanent maintenance free boost in the rear weight handling.

Makes sense. Better airbags have lifetime warranty though. Plus being able to adjust it much easier to suit the RV weight is handy. Sometimes its heavier behind the axle if the grey tank has water in it.

The helper springs run about $100 more for a set plus mounting kit. Probably is the bettter option.

There are 3500lb (3510) and 2500lb (9510) versions, not much different in price. Not sure which would be better. Too much help wouldn't be good either.

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Plus the 3" leaf mounting hardware kit:

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