Oils, lubricants, filters oh my

themechanicalford

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I am sure these have been discussed about our IDI’s with specificity on here but I’m not having any luck finding the threads. Does anyone have any of the best discussions saved?

I am looking for recommendations on all the filters, fluids and lubricants including gear, grease.

Also would like some recommendations on travelers vs delco motor oil.

Thanks!
 

Isaac Ristow

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I run delvac 15w40, all wix filters using a wix powerstroke filter, I use mystic red hitemp grease because that's what we use at work, I use atf and lucas trans fluid stabilizer in my zf5, tcase gets generic atf, front and rear ends get generic 80w90, atf in the power steering pump, I change my oil every 3000 miles and grease the chassis every oil change, I change all the other fluids every 2 years
 

themechanicalford

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I run delvac 15w40, all wix filters using a wix powerstroke filter, I use mystic red hitemp grease because that's what we use at work, I use atf and lucas trans fluid stabilizer in my zf5, tcase gets generic atf, front and rear ends get generic 80w90, atf in the power steering pump, I change my oil every 3000 miles and grease the chassis every oil change, I change all the other fluids every 2 years

just what I was looking for, thank you. Do you have any experience with tractor supply’s traveler oil?
 

u2slow

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My best advice is focus on doing the prescribed servicing regularly... not the brand of stuff you use.

I've been running walmart oil (by the pail) for ~20 years and whatever rockauto filters for at least 12.
 

Cubey

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All in reference to my RV (what I have been driving mainly for almost 2 years) except for engine oil, which applies to both:

I run whatever cheapest 15w40 I can find usually with an FL1995 filter. I put Valvoline Premium Blue last time. This time, it's gonna get TSC's Traveller oil because I got it so cheap.

Last year, I did a trans fluid/filter change at ~70k original miles on the original trans, but it had been serviced before due to the 4WD style C6 filter it had. The old oil was slightly dark but still very much red. I put in standard (not MaxLife) Valvoline Dex/Merc and it's still doing fine. I did the TC drain as well as the pan. (Replaced the pan with one that has a drain bolt too)

I put Lucas Red N' Tacky grease in the king pins and steering linkages.

I put the cheap SuperTech 85-140 conventional gear oil in my RV's Dana 70 open (not LS) rear end.
 

Farmer Rock

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I have always used shell rotella 15w 40 and napa/wix filters. Moly grease from tsc.
I have used traveler oil in a pinch and used to keep some on hand. I believe it is made Warren distribution which has contracts with the military so it must be pretty good oil. Like @u2slow said, it really doesn't matter what oil you use, it is more important that it's changed frequently,as in 3k miles.




Rock
 

Stu Bailey

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I believe it is made Warren distribution which has contracts with the military so it must be pretty good oil. Lol That can be true sometimes. I’ve seen some of the contractors we hire and they come to work more hungover than me haha but when it comes to products like fluids that are contracted said:
@Farmer Rock[/USER] but you know what I mean!
 

frankenwrench

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I have always used rotella myself and never had any issues but recently have switched to traveller from tsc. It's a good bit cheaper and we recently had a tsc built and opened closeish to my house. Still use the fl1995. I change my oil at 2500 miles per recommendation of ats, and also on my sister's na idi it clearly states to change at 2500 mi under severe duty on the ip inspection cover. I use red lucus #2 on all my grease nipples. I use mercon 5 atf in my zf5 and I use 75-90 full synthetic (generic) in the rear end. I should add about the rear end that I have an 03 super duty rear end as to why I use a different fluid as others in the rear end of my truck.
 

MtnHaul

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If you change your oil at 2500-3000 miles then any brand should be fine. From what I've read it seems that any oil with the proper specs is going to work well for 2-3k miles but might not provide the best protection as mileage goes up.

Delvac 15w-40
Synthetic ATF in the ZF 5speed--Currently filled with Amsoil but the Royal Purple I used on the previous fill seemed quieter and a bit smoother.
Wix/NAPA or Donaldson filters
For grease I like Texas Refinery products
 

Isaac Ristow

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All in reference to my RV (what I have been driving mainly for almost 2 years) except for engine oil, which applies to both:

I run whatever cheapest 15w40 I can find usually with an FL1995 filter. I put Valvoline Premium Blue last time. This time, it's gonna get TSC's Traveller oil because I got it so cheap.

Last year, I did a trans fluid/filter change at ~70k original miles on the original trans, but it had been serviced before due to the 4WD style C6 filter it had. The old oil was slightly dark but still very much red. I put in standard (not MaxLife) Valvoline Dex/Merc and it's still doing fine. I did the TC drain as well as the pan. (Replaced the pan with one that has a drain bolt too)

I put Lucas Red N' Tacky grease in the king pins and steering linkages.

I put the cheap SuperTech 85-140 conventional gear oil in my RV's Dana 70 open (not LS) rear end.
I welded a bung into my c6 pan and used a a magnetic plug, I bought a universal hydraulic filter housing that takes a spin on filter and put it inline with the cooler lines. I drained my converter aswell and I used john deere hygaurd fluid it shifts very nice. The c6 filter is more of a suctiuon screen so thats why I went with the spin on filter
 

Cubey

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I welded a bung into my c6 pan and used a a magnetic plug, I bought a universal hydraulic filter housing that takes a spin on filter and put it inline with the cooler lines. I drained my converter aswell and I used john deere hygaurd fluid it shifts very nice. The c6 filter is more of a suction screen so thats why I went with the spin on filter

The C6 pans cost next to nothing and I didn't have to try to weld on something. A cheap drian bolt kit and some red locktite for the nut that holds the threaded part to the pan might have worked well but eh. I'm not sure I could fit a spin on trans filter anywhere easily.
 

Isaac Ristow

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The C6 pans cost next to nothing and I didn't have to try to weld on something. A cheap drian bolt kit and some red locktite for the nut that holds the threaded part to the pan might have worked well but eh. I'm not sure I could fit a spin on trans filter anywhere easily.
I have access to a nice welder I welded a nut inside the pan. I put my spin on filter behind the bumper I also used a 6.5 gm diesel oil cooler for a second transmission cooler
 
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