Oil cooler R&R question.

[MtnHaul]

My oil cooler seems to be leaking from where it inserts into the front header--no oil in coolant or coolant in oil, yet--so it looks like it's o-ring time, and probably also do the header gasket. I have read numerous posts regarding how to perform this task and it seems that techniques and opinions vary. As i will be doing this alone it seems like installing the cooler assembly as one piece--headers and cooler--would make it very hard to keep the header gaskets aligned properly while trying to get a few bolts in to hold it in place. So, my plan is to install the cooler in two pieces. First get the front header installed, then mate the cooler with the rear header and install. I read at least one member here doing something similar who recommended assembly lube to help the parts go together. Is this a reasonable plan or am I asking for trouble trying to install the cooler in two pieces? And are aftermarket gasket/o-rings ok to use or is this another part better sourced from Ford? Thanks for any assistance/tips.

 

[FarmerFrank]

Aftermarket is fine.

Some say it's easier to bolt the front header in first then try to install the cooler bundle with the rear already installed.

I prefer installing them whole. Just apply some aviation gasket sealant to both sides of the Gasket and it will stick to the headers


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[typ4]

Dorman (904-223) Oil Cooler Gasket Kit

im going to try this . it will be delivered today so ill look at quality and report back

 

[MtnHaul]

Thanks, yeah that aviation sealant is great stuff.

 

[icanfixall]

That top gasket is the front header gasket. Be careful becaaues the vans use a different front gasket.It has only THREE bolt holes. As for the header gaskets I would use a gasket sealant that drys and glue them to the block. 3M Weatherstrip Cement works very well for this but..Next time you have to remove them it will be difficult because they stick very well to whatever they are used on. I apply it to both the gasket and the part I want it to stick to. Let it dry and then place it one time. Be sure you have it lined up cause its a contact cement. I suppose gasket remover may help in removal next time but again. I have not tried that. I do use this method when I install a water pump. I cement the gasket to the pump ans NEVER have gasket issues. Once it becomes glued to the pump I use RTV on the other side as an extra sealant. Never leaks...

 

[hesutton]

Make sure you have the surfaces of the tube and headers free of crude/corrosion before you try and put them together. I agree with the engine assembly lube on the new O-rings and on the headers. You want the header to slide/slip onto the tube without needing to beat on it or need a clamp/press.

I've only cut O-rings by skipping the header/tube prep and used a press to get the headers on (trying to save time... ended up costing me time and $$$). Learned the hard way, you should clean the mating surfaces well enough that (with lube) you can press the header onto the tube with just the force of your hands.

I've used Permatex copper RTV on the header gaskets with good success.

Heath

 

[MtnHaul]

Exactly Heath. After reading one of your old posts regarding this repair I decided that worrying about a press should be avoidable if I clean it 'till it shines and use the assembly lube. I haven't used the copper RTV before but I may try it on this application.

 

[laserjock]

I think I used the Dorman gasket kit. They were nice pieces. Metal gaskets with nice thick silicone beads on them. Thought I had pictures but I can't find them.