New User with 2 1986 F350s

onetonjohn

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Thanks for the heads up on the head studs. I was thinking about the ARP studs. I think I'm gonna take the plunge.

Gonna take a second look for the crack. Ugg...
 

onetonjohn

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Are the cracks in the pic with four cylinders, or the close up of one? I don't see it or I'm hoping the sharp vertical indent to the right of the large circular indent next to the valve relief cutout is a dent and not a crack.
 

onetonjohn

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Thanks. I see it now. Going to break out the magnifying glass and inspect it more carefully. Do I have to replace rod bearing if I disconnect it to replace the piston? Or can I just re-install and retorque assuming I don't remove the bearing from the caps.
 

Hydro-idi

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You can remove bearings from rod & caps. Won’t hurt anything if you do that. You can surely reuse them if they are in good shape as well.
Cracks on pistons is something I have never trusted even though some will probably think it’s not a big deal. They take a lot of constant pressure and heat.
But who really knows. That engine could very well be fine with a small crack in piston for many miles. Just my .02.
 

towcat

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a suggestion for everyone in the future.
if you are cleaning gasket surfaces, get a can of the cheapest foamy shaving cream and fill the areas where you don't want the crap to fall into. use a wet/dry shop vac and clean up the mess caught in the foam when done. crap doesn't fall into the crevices and smells good when you are done. when I worked at a dealership, i had a customer come into the shop and ask why the can of shaving cream. I opened the drawer with the machete in it and said I just shaved the last nosy customer with the machete. he ran. :D
 

IDIBRONCO

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If you are going to all this trouble of rebuilding it, get a set of ARP headstuds.
You'll thank me later - not only do they give you peace of mind when it comes to blowing gaskets, but you can safely drop a turbocharger on there and make it not-slow!
Seriously... The headstuds are a good thing now, and a turbo later when you find one. It makes a *huge* difference in performance, especially under load.
Plus they're much cheaper for a 6.9 than for a 7.3.
 

onetonjohn

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I think this is good news. I looked at it close up with a magnifying glass and didn't see any cracks. Here's a pic through the glass.
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onetonjohn

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Now the issue is I really don't like leaks. Any reason not to re-seal timing cover, water pump (maybe replace), front seal, and pan gasket? Anything else I should do while I"m here? BTW: Oil cooler is dry.
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