New To The Group - 86 6.9 C6 - 90k original mile F250 Lariat - 6 of 8 Glow Plugs Bad

[wildman7798]

So here I go with a very challenging beginning on my new truck. I did the Test light run and the Resistance test of all the glow plugs. 6 of 8 are dead. My hope is they just failed over time and present no issues coming out. This truck is a ****** with the exception of the early Banks turbo system. It is my guess the glow plugs are original. I have read and read on this and it's time to take action. My plan is to use the Ziggy method and follow the pistons to the top before I pull the glow plug. Any input or last minute advice is appreciated. The forums seem full of horror stories of swollen and broken GP's, it would be nice to hear some success stories before I start pulling these out - I would even welcome some encouraging words. Pulling cylinder heads is not something that sounds appealing. If all goes well my future plans are cranking up the fuel, adding some propane, some small stacks and get out there and burn some coal. I've had 3 Cummins 5.9's and figured when they all left along with the horses and trailers and nothing left to tow my diesel days were done....lol.. been whining for 2 years about not having a diesel truck and my cousin drops this on me as a freebie. Good to be in the group here....lots of good info. Thanks, Wildman - NW Washington

 

[whiteboyslo]

FWIW, mine was a lot like yours when I bought it. Basically stock, low miles, no mods except for a Banks system, and a few dead glow plugs (likely originals). Swapping the plugs on this truck was one of the first jobs I did (did the return lines and caps at the same time). There was no drama other than a couple of the connectors on the harness crumbling to pieces when I tried to remove them. A couple bullet connectors fixed that. Just make sure to use a 6-pt deep socket to ensure you don't round the GP or snap it off. A u-joint comes in very handy, too. And, of course, replace the GPs with Motorcraft units.

Mike

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. As posted above. Motorcraft Beru ZD9 plugs are what works for many here. They have been run for millions of miles and no issues like the autolites or champions have. Its a tight job getting under and around the hard lines of the injecters but it doable. Get some aerokroil or PB Blaster and soak the plugs before you attemp removel. Warm up the engine and let it cool down several times too. That stuff creeps into the smallest of areas and the heating and cooling speeds it up because the metal is expanding and contracting. When you break on loose spray some more on the plug. Work it in and out and feel it loosen up. If the plug starts to tighten up as your removing it stop. turn it back in till it loosens up and spary more. Watch in soak down the threads. Hopefully that will wet the tip and soften the carbon buildup. If its swollen it may help it slip out the head too. There is no garrentee that tips are swollen or burned off. If one comes out with a mising tip look closely at the end. If its carboned up then it fell off long ago and went thru the turbo or out the exhaust. Then that happens the piston top is damaged but runnable and the turbo gets some fin damage but runnable too.

 

[riotwarrior]

Welcome to OB for starters, best place for info on these old trucks bar none!

Now as for your GP woes...I pulled and replaced mine with nary a hint of problem what so ever. REALLY simple job.

Now your will likely be ZD1 IIRC flat spade connector on plug, however that does not preclude getting Beru/Motorcraft plugs.

Autolites and Champion are supposedly not the best and swell, some here have used those with good results, however many have had the swollen broken tip issue too.

Mine I pulled Beru, what did I install, Beru, what do I have for 8 new spares...ya...I'll say it again BERU!

I'll never ever use a Champion glow plug or spark plug ever again in my life if I can help it. I've not purchased champion brand in 32 years unless that was the absolute only plug that would fit....

Regardless, good luck with what you have, and post some pics.

Read through the FAQ and tech sections and Hall of Shame too so you keep yer money away from bad retailers...

Again welcome to OB

Al

 

[argve]

welcome to the site. lets see some pictures of yer new to you ride. Now I'm gonna go out in left field here and recommend using the constant duty glow plugs and use a push button on the dash to activated them. The reason for this is the stock controller system on the 6.9's leave a ton to be desired. they are known to fail.

 

[wildman7798]

Thanks for the support guys. I will be using the ZD's for certain. I am still not 100% sure about the manual switch. I will keep reading and listening, I know the majority probably say to add your own switch and I can see the logic in it. I have the feedback lines and nozzles to do yet as well as the other service issues that come with a truck that has been off the road for 9 years. She is a beauty though I must say. Typical things for this vintage, no paint on hood, stripped window motor nylon bushings. Soooooo.... I couldn't resist taking out one of the GP's, and it was one of the 6 bad ones. Used my 1/4" drive 6 point socket and it came out like nobody's business... turned right out and looks to be in great shape besides it is an open circuit. No swelling, flaring, burning....ect, ect. I'll be back at it in a couple of days, in my older age, hahahha, I treated myself to an overhead creeper, so I'll finish the removal once I get that set up. I'll get some photos put up of the truck and the GP's as it goes. Do I just load them to photo bucket and put the URL in the thread body? Again Thanks.

 

[Kevin 007]

The manual switch setup is stupid easy on for the 6.9 system. Just remove the purple wire from the GP relay and run a wire from a fused push button switch and your golden!!!

 

[Can30Diesel]

I have some constant duty supposed self regulating glow plugs which I have been running off a push button system for a couple years now. They work great. I have had the bad glow plug swell as well and I got mine out. Just take your time and remember the stuff previously said here already and you will be fine.

Looking forwards to pictures of your truck!

Welcome to the forum!

 

[wildman7798]

Some Photos from today.

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Not the best photos - but it's gives you guys an idea how she looks

 

[riotwarrior]

Damn fine looking truck for sure, you got a keeper! Thanks for the pictures!

 

[91idi]

More pics!!!! she is so purdy!

 

[Wicked97]

I have never been a fan of manual plugs. Wiring in a 7.3 controller is insanely easy on your truck.

 

[wildman7798]

Progress is slow but steady... ordering parts as I go, new return line and Viton O rings. Scored a set of (8) ZD1's for $55.00. Got 4 of the old Champion GP's out. One was a little testy, one corner of the end was burnt down a little, looks like it was nothing recent, but there was a small chunk of metal slag on the side of the element, it flattened out as I worked it out but it was a little odd and made me a little nervous coming out. (I'll post some photos of it tomorrow). I am curious about the factory GP controller and circuitry - I have not really seen a complete wiring diagram of it all - is there any other function of the GP's except in 5 to 10 second start mode - I hear things like after glow and other terms and am wondering what if any function is lost by using the bypass switch. I don't have a lot of confidence in aftermarket momentary switches anymore - we use them in the Demo Derby cars for engine start and the ones for sale today are crap - they fall apart, short out and don't inspire much confidence. As mentioned above I can look to upgrading to the solid state system. So far so good with this - will be glad when this exercise of "find the surprise behind the threads" is over. Have to find a Trac Loc for this beast next - my mantra has been "I'll never own another truck with an open rear end". hahahhahah

 

[wildman7798]

Update and some photos of "Project back on the road" Got all 8 Champion GP's removed - 2 Worked - 6 Failed - all the failed ones had a metal slag buildup at about the same spot on the GP causing some testy times coming out. The last one to remove seemed to be the most difficult and very little to no slag, not sure if was knocked off in removal and left in cylinder - doesn't look like it but can't be sure, I am ok with that it looks like. The slag is almost as if it's weld slag, anyone seen this before and where does it come from? Tried to scrape it off but it's pretty well welded to the GP but mallable enough to flatten out during removal. Got ZD's going in, a bunch of new Delo and some filters, clean the K&N and see if we can get her back on the road by the weekend. The fuel in both tanks is about half or a third.. any recommended additives for 9 year old fuel. I live in a very very damp and high moisture environment? Curious to see what you guys say about the buildup on the GP's. The revival and raising of the dead continues.

(2) working Champion GP's on left (6) failed on right

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Image of slag found on (6) failed units

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Slag found in almost same place on all (6) failed units

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[wildman7798]

So being new to the inside of a diesel engine, what is the metal slag welded to the side of my glow plugs?? Is that the result of coking or that? I figured someone would have chimed in on this. Thanks