Back to automatic glow plugs

ugredydrtbag

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When I bought my truck, it came with manual glow plugs hooked to a push button on the dash. As I've driven the truck more, I've found that the connections to the button are unreliable, meaning that I have to push the button several times to engage the glow plugs. I Also want to use this space to mount a pyrometer gauge. Is is possible to convert my truck back to manual glow plugs? If so, What would that require? I've attached pictures to show the work of the previous owner.
 

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DirtyWood

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Here's a link for the manual GP conversion, https://www.oilburners.net/articles/glowplugbypass.htm

Basically just swap the two white wires in the pics. The white wire that is taped off to the side should be attached to the small post on the relay and the larger gauge white wire tied off somewhere.

Personally I prefer the manual setup because it has at least one advantage over the factory setup and that is the ability to glow the plugs as long as needed even if there are dead glow plugs or broken wires in the GP harness. With the factory setup failed/failing glowplugs change the resistance in the circuit and the controller will cycle off before the plugs have fully heated. So on the one hand the factory setup acts as a diagnostic procedure for the GP system but it can lead to hard starts if there is a problem and it's not fixed immediately.
 

BeastMaster

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Sometimes, the problem is in the relay. I had several relays fail on me. I suspect aluminum contacts.

The coil current on my original relays was 4 amperes. Almost pure inductive. Its hell on a cheap switch. I had some old spring-return toggle switches salvaged off old WWII military stuff, and the White Rodgers industrial contactor ( same one Wes uses ) and have had no more problems. The White Rodgers coil current is about 1/2 amp. Silver contacts. Quite a bit heavier than what I had. No way I'm gonna go back to automatic. Ive got a really good feel by now exactly when to juice my plugs and how much. And I don't have to ask my batteries to crank and glow at the same time. There is quite a a bit of thermal inertia. The colder the engine is, the more glow it's gonna need.

I'm not gonna beat a dead horse. I have electric fuel pump insuring the IP inlet is pressured up and ready to go. The first squirt of fuel oughta catch if the plugs are good and up to temperature. Now the whole thing boils down to having enough current to spin the starter motor fast enough to clear the ignition flashpoint temperature upon the "adiabatic" compression and fuel injection.

Its a physics thing...like making ice.

Water won't freeze if you can't get it below 32 degrees, neither will the fuel catch until it reaches above a critical temperature. Even though the whole cylinder may not reach ignition temperature, all it takes is one hot spot on the glow plug to start off the cascade. So, knowing I only have so much current and time to work with, I allocate my battery energy to first get the glow plugs good and hot, then use battery current to spin the starter. If the fuel injection system is working to spec, by the laws of physics, it has to catch. If it failed to catch, well I know I had compression ( by the sound of the starter motor laboring to compress the cylinder full of air ), I have to assume I got a squirt of properly atomized fuel, which should have immediately ignited upon contact with the glow plug element.

We are lucky in that we don't have that fuel-air ratio thing the gassers have, where excessively rich or lean won't catch. Ideally, we are always running lean. If we do run rich, the engine doesn't stop .. it just blows black smoke to all high heaven, as we don't light off the carbon in the fuel...the hydrogens get all the oxygens.

I guess waking up our old beasts is a lot like hunting...first, you try and miss a lot, and have to make several do-overs... For me, it used to take several tries...but by now I usually get a catch on the first compression. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the starting system. If the engine is already warm, I likely won't even need the plugs, but intake air and fuel temperatures factor in too. You get a feel for it. You've got almost a KWH of energy in the batteries. You don't want to squander it on fruitless attempts. The automatic option removes your common sense off the table.

Manually, you can destroy your glow plugs. I seriously doubt any of us here on this forum would do that. But I wouldn't put anything up to a neighbor or spouse who doesn't comprehend the physics that these beasts operate under. But a malfunctioning controller will. And leave you wondering what to heck is going on here?

The more you know about your beast, the more you will like it - primarily for me, it's pure simplicity.
 

DirtyWood

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If the engine is already warm, I likely won't even need the plugs,
This is frequently true in my experience. I've noticed that as long as the coolant temperature is at least 60F the engine will fire within .5-1.5 seconds of cranking. Since June 1st I've been making a point to not use my plugs and the worst crank time I've seen is about 2.5-3 seconds first thing in the AM--of course newer batts and starter do help when not using the plugs.
 

franklin2

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Is is possible to convert my truck back to manual glow plugs? If so, What would that require? I've attached pictures to show the work of the previous owner.
You would regret this move. I would repair what you have. Move the switch if it's in the way of your new gauge.
 

BeastMaster

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I saw a concern the switch is taking valuable dash space.

I agree The dash wasn't good for me either

I like the bottom seat frame, left hand side rear ( very close to my butt ), it's spring-loaded bat handle facing the driver door. Its protected from accidental operation there, and is easily reachable with my left hand while seated with the door closed.

My right hand will be on the ignition key, as I start the waking the beast ... First turn the engine power bus on ( hot in run ), hear the fuel pump come up and stabilize as the fuel pressure comes up, then with my left hand, raise the spring-return glow plug bat for the time I estimate should have got the glow plugs sufficiently hot ( 10 seconds on a really cold morning with ice, four seconds or so on a typical cold morning, two on a warm day, and often none of the engine has been earlier that day ) , then let it spring-return back down (off), while immediately engaging the starter via the ignition switch. If it didn't catch by three or four compressions, I have to assume I didn't clear flashpoint temperature. My left hand is still at the glow plug toggle. Goose it a bit more ( 3 seconds maybe ? ). Release and repeat the starter. I expect a catch - for me - usually on the first compression. By trial and error, I have got pretty good at estimating how much glow to give it without overdoing it.

I do not ask it to glow and spin at the same time, but I do attempt spin simultaneous with release of the glow plug relay.

When it's cold, I add a quart of kerosene in the fuel tank. It seems to help.

I also slip in a quart of walmart 2-cycle outboard marine oil per tank of diesel. I am of the belief that may help prolong the life of my electric fuel pump and IP.

I also use the Hot Shots Extreme as directed, as I have understood others on this forum saying they have had favorable results with it keeping the injectors clean. Its pretty obvious that if the injectors do not mist properly and dribble the fuel in, it's not gonna catch right.

I wouldn't make such a detailed post over this, however I remember when I first got this beast, I was reading anything others offered, as this kinda advice isn't in the textbooks...this is the kind of advice one usually shares over a beer.

Below, I post two photos of what I did.

One is looking in through the open driver side door. Look for the bat-handle toggle switch. The other is an under-seat view. Its best wired then fastened in its mounting hole.

One of these days, I'll get the wire dressed prettier...there's already a hole for the seat belt nag switch that the previous owner had disconnected and I didn't want it either.
 

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