I believe you can lower pistons some by machining wrist pin bushings off center. I asked my machine shop about this and he said it was a PITA but can be done. You would need to start with custom bushings that allow this.
New member. Questions.
- Thread starter Torinojts
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Torinojts
Full Access Member
Thank you **** for all the responses. The machine shop will never see anything from me again for decking block with out permission and for the length of time they had it. I will try and get some picks up on build in the near future. Thanks.
Those numbers are for a standard 7.3. If you have a factory turbo block, then, the numbers will change as the wrist pin is larger. I don't have the numbers with me now, but I should be able to find them later if that's what you need. But, a Mahle dealer should be able to find those numbers.
Heath
Heath
Jake_IN
Full Access Member
Sorry but I lol'd at that.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I saw it, but didn't want to be the one to respond anymore.
Torinojts
Full Access Member
Oops. #%$& auto correct on phone.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The non turbo pistons have a wrist pin diamater of 28mm where the turbo pistons have a wrist pin diamenter of 33mm. I can furnish the turbo piston numbers from Mahle if you want it... As posted by riotwarrior.. Every piston height needs to be checked. Ys just know the only piston you don't check is going to contact something. That height tool I posted is stupid simple to use. Set it on the block and adjust the dial indicater to zero. Then place it over a cylinder. Bring the piston up till the indicater just begins to drop down after its found top dead center. Read and write down that number. Move on to the next cylinder till all 8 are down. The right tool at the right time makes a job become easy..
HA means Hard anadoised
HAWR means Hard anadoised with ring
HA means Hard anadoised
HAWR means Hard anadoised with ring
Torinojts
Full Access Member
I tried getting ahold of Mahle no luck. Called 2 different part stores for pistons .010 under and they acted like I was stupid. So if you can post part numbers for a factor turbo engine that would be great.
The part numbers have changed over the last few years, not sure when they did, but it can easily be cross referenced.
The 7.3 turbo IDI piston with reduced compression height have a Mahle part number of 224-3512HA. They have a hard anodized crown as well. Add WR to the end of the part number to get them with rings.
The Mahle catalog is HERE. Print it off and take it the page you need to a Mahle dealer so they can order the correct pistons.
Heath
The 7.3 turbo IDI piston with reduced compression height have a Mahle part number of 224-3512HA. They have a hard anodized crown as well. Add WR to the end of the part number to get them with rings.
The Mahle catalog is HERE. Print it off and take it the page you need to a Mahle dealer so they can order the correct pistons.
Heath
Knuckledragger
blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain
Another thing to measure, as long as you are checking the work of the machine shop, is the valve protrusion from the heads. Usually doing a valve job will surface the heads and grind the valves with the result of a no-net difference for protrusion. but since your shop did stuff without asking, it would be a good idea to just check them. Gary (icanfixall) knows the factory specs, I think it is .060.
Me thinks we should tap into Gary's head for all that techno stuff, or have him write it out nice and concise list, specs, his takes, out takes, in takes, all takes.... 
Just saying
Al
Just saying
Al
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Me thinks we should tap into Gary's head for all that techno stuff, or have him write it out nice and concise list, specs, his takes, out takes, in takes, all takes....
Just saying
Al
+1
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
You guys couldn't handle the load of information I have about these engines. Thats why I hand it out when asked. You should see how the book recommends installing the raer crank main seal. There is runout to take into play as is the actual placement of the seal plate. Anyone thats done a rear seal and removed that plate will know about the locating pin. Theres an alignment called excentrisity too. The seal must be centered on the crank. It must not be placed sideways. There is an up, a down, a left ans a right along with the wear edge being at a right angle to the shaft. If one edge is pushed in more then the wear edge of the seal wil rub and not last very long. Getting into the vlaves is another monster you really don't want all the info on. Its not just angles and runout. Its seat width and depth too.
The depth of the intake valve is to be recessed 0.042 to 0.054
the depth of the exhaust valve is to be recessed 0.051 to 0.061
The precup can be from +0.0025 to -0.0025 or you have a 0.005 thousands tollarence to get into.
The deck thickness of the head is from 4.795 to 4.805 thick measured from the head to block mating surface up to the machined valve cover rail.
Need more.. I can help....
The depth of the intake valve is to be recessed 0.042 to 0.054
the depth of the exhaust valve is to be recessed 0.051 to 0.061
The precup can be from +0.0025 to -0.0025 or you have a 0.005 thousands tollarence to get into.
The deck thickness of the head is from 4.795 to 4.805 thick measured from the head to block mating surface up to the machined valve cover rail.
Need more.. I can help....
Torinojts
Full Access Member
Thanks for part number and parts book from Mahle. As for the heads I am going to have another guy I know check them over. I just received a factory ford service manual from eBay. I believe the spec were in there
I agree with getting the heads looked at by a second pair of eyes. When rebuilding my 6.9, the 1st machine shop said they checked the heads, valves, seats, and guides and they were "great". I pulled a few valves once I had the heads back to find they did NOTHING to the heads except clean them and check for cracks.
The exhaust valves all had pitting on the face, both exhaust and intake stems were worn, and all the valve guides were out of spec. I was not happy. I drove the heads 2.5 hours north east to Louisville, KY to Haas Machine. They did the head work the 1st shop was supposed to do.
The heads are critical to a quality, long lasting, rebuild. Get'm checked again.
Heath
The exhaust valves all had pitting on the face, both exhaust and intake stems were worn, and all the valve guides were out of spec. I was not happy. I drove the heads 2.5 hours north east to Louisville, KY to Haas Machine. They did the head work the 1st shop was supposed to do.
The heads are critical to a quality, long lasting, rebuild. Get'm checked again.
Heath
