New member, new truck, need advice, ATS 093 Turbo question

[sw114702]

Well let me start by thanking everyone for making this such a great resource and thanks in advance for any feedback.

About me: I'm in my late 20's and live near Peoria IL. I love diesel engines and antique cars.

About my Truck: Just picked up a 1993 Ford F250 4x4, 5-speed, 3.55 gears, 215,000 miles. Originally a NA engine but a factory ATS 093 (correct me if I'm wrong) was added on 100,000 miles ago. At the same time I'm told that the clutch was replaced and an upgraded solid front axle was put under the front. It was used on a farm at some point for clearing snow which is why it still has the boss front plow mount/wiring which I will be removing to hopefully get some money back. Along with this truck I got a complete 7.3 NA out of a 91 truck that I have for parts. It is supposedly a good running engine with no major issues, although I never heard it run myself.

It seemed to run and drive pretty good when I brought it home but once I tried to start it cold the first time it had alot of trouble. I found out that 3 of 8 glow plugs were burned out so I replaced them and now the WTS light doesn't just click/flash and it starts easier so I think I'm good there.

Issues it has:

BODY RUST - probably not going to fix cause it is afterall an IL truck

Whole rusted through the passenger side exhaust manifold (see pic). I have a good manifold on my parts engine but it looks like I will have a tough time removing the old one. The bolts don't look very healthy, any advice? Heat them, cut them off, remove the head, leave it alone? It looks like I would have to remove the inner fender and go through the wheel well to work on it, probably have to tilt the engine a bit to get it away from the frame rail too?...

When I removed the air box I found the nasty turbo compressor wheel surprise (see pic). The wheel is damaged, I don't know if it is wear or of something touched the wheel to mow it down like that. I am assuming it has been that way for quite a while and will not blow apart immediately but I doubt it is something I can leave alone either. Would I be able to replace just the compressor wheel without removing the turbo. It does not look like a fun job to try to remove because the down pipe an Y pipe will not come out easily. Any advice here would be very helpful...

Finally, there is a small fitting on the turbo compression chamber/hat with a plastic line coming out that was lying there broken, can you tell me what that is for and where that line was supposed to run to?

Thanks!

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

First of all welcome to OB.

Second, thats not the factory ford version of that turbo thats the real deal ATS version with the 3" down pipe housing.

Third, that plastic line is for a boost gauge and if the line isn't hooked to a gauge you're for one sucking dirty air into the engine through that hose when you're not in boost, and 2 when you are in boost that is a major boost leak. I suggest you get a boost gauge though and use it. Also, if you don't have a pyrometer, I'd get one of those on there too.

That compressor wheel doesn't look bad, I've seen allot worse. If you move the shaft to the sides does it contact the housing if you try to spin it? Can you pull it or push it any? Any front to back movement is a sign of a bad turbo for sure. Side to side is fine so long as it doesn't contact the housings. EDIT: Never mind, I finally got the pic of the compressor wheel to load and I retract my previous statement. That wheel is toast. Personally I'd say thats probably from someone running the engine without an air filter, but Russ would know for sure. Russ, Typ4, is our in house turbo rebuild guy. I'd contact him and find out what he says.

That manifold obviously needs replaced. I have a few laying around if you can't find one. I think I even have one thats already ceramic coated. lol

 

[Sledgehammer]

Welcome from downstate Il.

I've had good luck on exhaust manifold bolts by using a hammer/punch on 3 or 4 faces of the bolt head to break the rust loose and then applying steady pressure with ratchet and socket. May not always work but it has worked well for me.

 

[sootman73]

Wow what an abused engine! Sorry to say but that thing cant run worth crap. That hole in the manifold is really bad with a turbo'd engine. That turbo cant be spooling hardly at all and couple that with the hole for the boost gauge you'r prob putting little to no boost into the engine.

It all comes down to how much you want to spend on it. I would be rebuilding the turbo with new compessor. some large chunks missing and it looks like it is contacting the bottom of the housing with a gap towards the top.

no the turbo is not easy to take off but if that thing lets go and sends pieces of the wheel into the motor..... well you know what that means....

sound like whoever you bought it from unloaded it to you to avoid those costs. Especially since they prob just quick cut the boost line for the gauge.

But welcome to oilburners. We'll help you as long as your willing to do the work

 

[sw114702]

Thanks for all the feedback so far, I will try to PM Type4 for some more specific turbo advice. The axial shaft play is very small if any and there is some radial play but it does not seem like much and you have to push pretty hard to get it to touch the housing. I'm glad to hear that the turbo is a good one that will likely be worth all the effort of fixing. The previous owners did not take good care of this thing but I am willing to give it my best shot and will keep you guys updated to my progress. I'm sure I will have some more fun stuff to report back on...

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

welcome to the site. congrats on finding a turbo with the ats upgrade.

as far as i am concerned that comp wheel is shot.

 

[typ4]

Yep its junk, pm sent .
But I will say if you take it apart and mess up something it will be more than just having it done. I work on turbos pretty cheap, or so Im told.