New guy w/ some IP Q's

[Pure Insanity]

Well not exactly new, been around a while, just never posted anything until now.

Ive got a 93 CC dually w/ a big flat bed w/ a gooseneck ball, 7.3 Banks waste gated Sidewinder, w/ a 5sp. Ive had it almost a yr and really havent driven it much due to how bad it smokes. REAL bad, as in a cloud of smoke follows it. !! The hotter it got the cleaner it would run but never fully went away. Its showing 384,000 but Im pretty sure its had a crate motor at some point. I got it mainly to haul my 2.5 ton mud truck, but Ill prob drive it daily I like it so much.

After searching on here and talkin to a bunch of older Ford diesel techs I pretty well determined it needed injectors. I got a set of new Delphi BBs from Pensacola Injector and an install kit.

The other nite I changed out the inj and last nite bled it out and fired it off. Its much better now, but still seems rich at idle, still see greyish smoke coming from the stack, but not nearly as bad and it was white smoke before. When I rev it up it goes from grey to black and back to grey again after letting off. FWIW This thing runs GREAT always has. Rolling into second when the turbo would come in it would start breaking the tires loose and hopping. And that was w/ the bad injectors...

OK so now onto my question. A friend of mine has had quite a few IDIs over the yrs and infact my truck belonged to him for a short time. (He buys sells and trades alot of Ford trucks.) He told me to back down the IP inside the triangle cover on the side of the IP 2 flats on the allen wrench and see how it does. At some point I recall seeing a post about and a video of the other adjuster on the back of the IP. On mine that screw it in so far its sunken into the jamb nut pretty deep. I dont recall what that adjuster was for or how much to mess w/ it.

Can anyone advise on which I should adjust and how much and does anyone have a link to that video. I thought I saved it in my diesel favorites but cant find it for some reason. OH and the boost and EGT gauges were stolen out of the truck at some point before I got it so I have no way of monitoring those right now but plan to replace as soon as funds allow. The probe and wires are still there if there is some other way of reading it using a Fluke or something.

Thanks.

 

[redneckaggie]

almost sounds like an out of time ip i wouldnt adjust the screw under the triangle cover. does the ip have two screws on the back of it? if there is two then which one is sunk in? that model should have one at an angle towards towards the top of the firewall. and one straight towards the firewall on the back of the pump. the upper one is the torque screw and the bottom one has something to do with the governer? which one makes a big difference.

 

[Pure Insanity]

Ahh yeah I forgot to mention back when I first got it I noticed the IP was retarded quite a bit from the OE mark. Top of pump towards drivers side. I adjusted it back to the OE mark. Ive been looking into getting a Ferret so I can time it right. Does what I have going on sound like its advanced or retarded still. Ill play w/ it a bit to see if I can clean it up some.

The adjuster on the back of the IP is sort of at an angle up and back towards the firewall. I hadnt noticed another further down pointing back at the firewall. Ill have to look tommorow.

Also just remembered, the return line kit I put on has leaks. After shut down I can hear it sucking air and the hoses are all wet. Gotta fix that next time I get a chance to work on it. Im going to trash can the spring clamps and put on real hose clamps...I should have known better. !!

For some more info as I remember stuff, the tach doesnt work and I guess what should be a sensor of some kind on the front right inj is broken off. I found that when I was doing the injectors the other nite.

 

[redneckaggie]

those leaks absolutely needs fixed that is the torque screw and let me dig around a sec and see if i can find goofy's video.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmu9ZUY7eis&feature=related

here ya go guys should come along later and tell you how deep it should be in that nut

 

[Pure Insanity]

Thanx! Thats the video I was looking for.

The leaks were noticed after I let it run for a while tonite to try to let it purge out the rest of the air in the system. I fired it off w/ the new inj and only let it run a few min last nite. It started REAL hard but once it fired it restarted no problems after that. I tried to move the clamps up tighter to the inj but it didnt seem to help. I hate spring clamps and should have tossed them when I seen them.

I havent tried driving it yet w/ the new inj since Im not happy w/ the current tune. Dont want to take a chance on something stupid happening.

Thanx for the help so far.

 

[redneckaggie]

for the timing it is best to time with a meter but a local mechanic i know who has worked on these engines for years said that it should almost have a psd rattle to it with the high advance idle activated. I set mine like this as it was smoking almost the same pattern as yours and it cleared it up some then i put a set of injectors in and that took it all away. the only smoke i see now is black when i lay in to it real hard.

 

[icanfixall]

Theres nothing wrong with the return line spring clamps... You got a bad set of return lines on that buy.... Backing the fuel out is going to help. Just remove the triangle cover and use a 5/32 allen wrench. One flat will be enough. Do you know how many miles are on the injection pump. If not usually 100,000 miles or there abouts and they are shot. Read in the Hall of Shame who not to buy from if you need a pump. Two members here will fix you up with a pump. Just ask around...

 

[OLDBULL8]

iirc there are two different spring clamps Green and Red for different size OD hose. The hose itself should be quite tight on the cap spigot. Seems to me I ran into two different size caps couple years ago, 1/4" and 5/16". icbw

 

[icanfixall]

There are two differant size of return line kits. One is 1/4 inch and the other is 5/16 inch. This is why I posted that you got a bad kit. Pensacola is not known for doing the right thing as far as the Hall of Shame section says... Read it before you buy anything for these trucks... It may save you some trouble and money.

 

[Pure Insanity]

Thanx for the replys.

When the kit was ordered the guy they were ordered from asked what yr truck I had to send me the correct kit. The kit I got is 5/16. The hose seems to be of a decent quality w/ a woven cover on it like German diesels. Altho the hose wasnt real tight, a good fit, but not tight on the nipples and the clamps not real stout. Im going to change them out w/ small screw clamps. I read the Hall of Shame and seen where Pensacola didnt have a great rep on their remans, but I got new Delphi injectors, so I didnt see where there was much room to have a prob...supposedly a pop matched set. FWIW the inj I took out were all E codes.

Im a mechanic (mostly european imports) and while I do like the even tension of a spring clamp, I hate them. They never seem to open quite enough to remove a hose. The lighter guage ones dont seem to have enough tension and the thicker ones like rad hoses can be downright dangerous if they come loose while off the hose.

I priced a Ferret thru one of the local tool guys and will be pricing it thru the other that comes by our shop. Weve lost all but 2 of our tool guys in the last 3 yrs.

I talked to another guy today thats also a mechanic and has some more experience w/ the IDIs than I do and he said it sounds like I need to adv the timing some more. Im going to dial in a few more deg next time I get a chance to work on it. A temp fix until I get a Ferret and dial it in exact. Ill adv till it has a PSD like clatter and back it off a bit for now.

The IP I dont think has near the miles the inj did. Above I said Im pretty sure the truck has a crate motor, my reason is the whole motor, lines, inj, valve covers and other "tins" are all the exact same grey and theres no way the inj I just took out lasted 384,000+ miles. The motor has VERY little blow by. I removed the hose to the CDR (that was gutted and filled w/ strips of scotchbrite pads ) and the hose really doesnt puff much. I tucked it up by the master cyl when I drove it to the shop from where I had it stored and there was no splatter or anything below the hose and the hose isnt all slimed out w/ oil. OK back onto the IP. While EVERYTHING was the same color grey, the IP is not, its just clean shiney alum so Im thinking its been replaced. As much as Id like to just bite the bullet and get a Moose right now at the same time Im replacing the inj but I just dont have it right now to spend.

Whats the word on the adjuster on the back of the IP? The screw is sunk way into the jam nut.

 

[Pure Insanity]

Bump up. Still need to know about the adjuster on the back of the IP.

 

[93f250idi]

theres two adjusters on the back. one is torque screw an i think the other is something to do with the governor. the top is the torque screw it should be flush with the jamb nut. idk about the other one though

 

[Pure Insanity]

Thanx! It may have said where it was supposed to be as a baseline on the video above but I cant hear the video well enough to understand what was being said. Guess I need to watch it when noone else is home. !!

 

[91fummins]

just my 2 cents but my truck sat for awhile and when I installed the cummins I had a fuel leak where the return lines connected. I found that the return line was clogged between the front of the truck and the tank. I blew it out with and air hose and so far no more problems. You might check that out just to be sure.

 

[Pure Insanity]

Thanx fummins, Ill check that, but I am 99% sure it was leak free before the inj and hose swap.