New Engine Break-in Question

[towcat]

I got your 7% and raise you 2.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maryland_Route_135
http://www.mountaindiscoveries.com/images/ss2009/crosses.pdf


There is a sign at the bottom of the road that says "Prepare to meet thy God", no doubt put up by the local church, but there are quite a few Freightliner parts embeded in the rock wall that you hit if you don't get stopped.

Nice vid though... I've ridden over Donner Pass by train. Kinda wondered what the road was like down in the valley.

You get lots of nice decel cylinder cooling going down 135.

mel-
you've been out here. you've seen how long and steep some of the grades are. The vid only served to illustrate how some drivers who have been on the grade long enough to "forget" they must stay alert at all times.
if you would like examples of steeper, I can find some

 

[Agnem]

I think we should all just agree that this country has great places to break in an engine.

 

[THECACKLER]

Yeah, like Felton's Grade in Ben Lomond. I used to live on Hwy 236 at the top of the grade as you entered Big Basin and down on Hwy 9 in Brookdale. I loved it uphill but even more downhill because downhill was harder to keep control. I used to take Hwy 9 over to the Pit just for the challenge.
Anyways anybody have any insight on the front and rear seal leaks. I used the seals that came in the Felpro gasket set and that may have been a mistake. Regardless, I lubed with Assy Lube and set them in with sealant, and also used Rtv on the washer on the HB bolt but all to no avail. I also used copious amounts Red Loctite on the Flywheel bolts.
Any Ideas?

 

[icanfixall]

Red on the crank flange bolts.... Oh no... You will have some trouble getting them out. Should have used blue. It seals and breaks loose easier. Did you install any sleeves on the dampner or the rear of the crank.... If not then you probably have a groove cut into both because of seal wear. You probably saw the tiny alignment dowl on the front and back seal covers. Those are there for aligning the seal to the shaft. Also the seal must be alinged in the covers. Otherwise it will be wiping a large area of the rotating shaft. The sleeves are available and they are called speedy sleeves. The rear main seal comes with that already part of it from ford and international. Not a bad job... Just time consuming and messy....

 

[THECACKLER]

The crank seal surface looked good so I didn't do a repair sleeve. The HB had a very shallow wear pattern so I set the seal a little further forward (out).
What's the deal with aligning the rear seal in the cover? I got the tiny dowels on the cover OK and used Blue Hylomar in the tube on the gasket. I set the seal in about 1/16" recessed from the rear lip, visually the same as the old seal, with Permatex Aviation sealant around the OD and lubed the ID and the Crank Flange.
There's not much to go by in the Factory Technical Service Manual: they tend to leave a lot to your imagination. Being that this was my first diesel I was using my imagination a lot.
So you think I'm down for dropping the drive line to do a Flywheel Seal in the near future?

 

[towcat]

how "new" is your CDR?

 

[THECACKLER]

I don't know. I wondered about that myself. It was from the engine that is on now, but it had a seriously burnt piston that was most likely giving that puppy a run for it's money. Is there any way to test them, or do you think I should just swap it out with another?
All the parts on this engine are used and unknown. I just love it. (not)
Anyways, I like your question and welcome any suggestion. Well except for the one about my dog.

 

[rhkcommander]

Is there any way to test them, or do you think I should just swap it out with another?

If you see any chunks of rubber its dead, and I think there's a way to test it by blowing on it

 

[towcat]

I don't know. I wondered about that myself. It was from the engine that is on now, but it had a seriously burnt piston that was most likely giving that puppy a run for it's money. Is there any way to test them, or do you think I should just swap it out with another?
All the parts on this engine are used and unknown. I just love it. (not)
Anyways, I like your question and welcome any suggestion. Well except for the one about my dog.

change out your CDR asap before doing anything else on the seals.
if your CDR is jacked, you will be blowing oil out the seals.
get the break-in oil out and your favorite diesel motor oil in.
AND BEAT IT TO DEATH.....or at least try to

 

[THECACKLER]

Cool. I've got a loaded trailer set to pull up country Friday morning. I'll swap out the CDR with the one from my old 7.3. I didn't see any problems with blow-by from it. I'll pick up some oil and change it too asap. I had been using Rotella but I see many prefer Delo.
Not to start the debate again... but what good oil is commonly available nationally such as in a truck stop?

 

[rhkcommander]

I've been using delo 15w-40. gonna try rotella 15w-40 on my oil change unless people says it sucks then I'll keep doing the delo. said triple protect and i always thought rotella was better but i dont remember why now

been reading, most online say delo might be a lil better but both are good and just get whichever is cheaper at the moment. differences are minimal i guess. i got a 2.5g jug of rotella for 28$

 

[RLDSL]

Go with the Delo, Your truck and wallet will thank you. If running dino oil, delo holds up best over the rotella in hard use and burns off the slowest, not just personal opinion but that has shown in test after test Rotella has more detergents in it, but unfortunately that means less oil and thermal stability. Rotella is popular with beancounters due to price.in bulk, but they arent the ones watching it go down on the dipstick.

 

[rhkcommander]

Thanks, I had been reading and trying to get through the fanboys and to the facts. From the looks of it everything lines up with what your saying RLDSL.

Most people agree delo is better performance wise so I think I'll stick with it and see if I can find a big jug of it, I hear costco sells cases of delo for cheap!

 

[Diesel JD]

As regards availability I would guess you could get Rotella or Delo at a truck stop or similar outfit, don't forget Wal-Mart, may not agree with the politics of some here, or even me for that matter sometimes but they are cheap and in a pinch you do what you gotta.

 

[THECACKLER]

Thanks, but I don't do Walled Mart. I think they have had a lot to do with bringing this country to it's knees. I won't go into detail but it's their supplier price bargaining tactics that have sent the jobs to Asia.
Anyways, I decided to take my drain pan with me, run the John Deere Break-In Oil for perhaps 3-5Kilo mi., and if I have issues on the road I can decide if I want to dump the iol and go RT or Delo. I see there's two or more types of Delo available. Which is it I need?
On another note, following up with Towcat's recommendation, I swapped out my CDR wit a used one from one of the engines I parted while building this one. I had two spares and they both appeared to be the same. Both looked clean inside. Both passed air like they were wide open, and both held vacuum when I put my mouth to the little vent(?) hole on the front cover. So I pulled the one on the IDIT and it DID NOT hold vacuum. I do not know how these devices work to evacuate the Crankcase but 2 against one wins. I picked the one that I felt held the beat vacuum and slapped it back on. I am securing and tarping my trailer load today in prep for an early AM departure so I expect I'll know by noon tomorrow. What sucks is I'll be incommunicado while on the road.
The members of this group are such a valuable resource to me and as I'm sure so many others. I want to thank them for their invaluable assistance and frequent hand holding as I walked this valley of the shadow of cast iron and oil. It's nice to not feel alone.