Negative Air Intrusion — Start die, Start die, Start die....

[Juers]

1986 6.9 idi

Sat in the pasture for a decade until I finally hounded my uncle into giving it to me.

Have read and tested everything for air intrusion with clear line. Caps, viton rings, and braided line are new. New expendables, ie. olives, filters, etc. replaced. New lift pump and bypass-able E-pump installed. Schrader valve sprays good pressure. Return to tank bubbles even with lung power. Batteries are new and on smart charger over night. Block heater run over night–block very warm to touch. FSS checks out. Glow plugs checked. New FI copper washers. Air purged and fuel line in five-gallon can of fresh #2.

Starts easily, runs about one second, then dies. Start, die. Start, die. Start, die. Occasionally runs at idle, or anywhere else on throttle, for 5-10 seconds, then dies.

Repeat ad infinitum....

—

Fuel supply and return are strong on PS fuel rail, but Very weak along DS rail. Out of ideas. Full of frustration.

 

[79jasper]

Run a hotwire straight from the battery to the ip and try again.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[Juers]

K. Give me a moment. Already have one to the FSS. I’ll run to the other post.

 

[Juers]

Nope, no difference. Tried both posts.

 

[riphip]

Do you have a Water Separator next to the brake master cylinder? If so, have you pulled the ring to drain??

 

[Juers]

Thanks for the reply. Water separator already deleted. Will add a mod later after this baby runs.

 

[Macrobb]

Just eliminate /everything/. Grab a small electric pump(if you can), hook the output straight into the fuel filter. 5 gallon can of fuel into the inlet of the electric pump.
Empty the fuel filter, just to be sure. Then, power the electric pump and press in the schraeder valve on the filter until clean fuel comes out.

Power - Run a line from B+ to both terminals on the IP. Frontmost is FSS, rearmost is cold advance(housing pressure reduction).

Now, try to start it. Make sure to give it plenty of throttle if it does try to fire.



Check out what it took to get this one started:

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[Juers]

I could be that guy in the video!

#1 Done
#2 Done

Still same symptom at up and down throttle

Should I replicate their example and completely cut off the power except to the Timing, starter, and FSS?

 

[franklin2]

Maybe there something stuck in the injection pump. I know some of the guys on here have taken the fuel filter off, filled it with some sort of fuel treatment or transmission fluid, screwed it back on and cranked it till it got up in the injection pump. Then they let it sit for a day or two and then they try it after that.

 

[Juers]

It’s interesting you posted just that. It’s sitting with sea foam tonight. Back at it early in the morning.

Complicated story, but I definitely need this thing roadworthy in a week, because it’s starting to get colder and I need all-weather wheels. Wife has the car and I’m on a motorcycle.

 

[Macrobb]

If you've eliminated everything else, take the back end(cone where the fuel inlet is) off the IP. Check the inlet screen.

 

[Juers]

Yikes, that sounds scary!

It’s sitting in an ocean of Sea Foam for the night. If that doesn’t work, then I’ll remove all the lines and clean that screen.

Thanks for the advice!

 

[Macrobb]

It's actually not, though I didn't have time to type a proper response:
1. Remove fuel supply line from IP and filter.
2. Remove hex screw/"key" right above the "inlet cone".
3. Carefully unscrew the cone and remove.

I forget whether the screen is inside the cone or right at the rear of the IP, but it should be visible.

 

[Thewespaul]

I would pull the top cover off the IP and see what you see, I wouldnt be surprised if that pump is full of algae rust and crud.

Also you need either to run electric or mechanical fuel pumps not both, the electric pump will push pass the mechanical pump's diaphragm and into the crankcase.

 

[Juers]

You must be registered for see images attach

Thewespaul: removed cover last night. Interior looks pristine. Will visually check internals for a few other possibilities having to do with workings of the IP that I learned while lurking last night. I checked the FSS while the top was off. It apparently works with current.

Mcrobb: which “screw,” the upper hex bolt or the Allen screw directly above the cone?

Thank you, thank you for the help!