Need tool list for caliper change out... TODAY (3/24)

[Agnem]

*sigh...

The Moosewagon, which I'm thinking of renaming the Moose Casket, because everytime I look at this thing funny it finds some new way to kill me slowly...

But I digress...

Right front brake caliper is locking up on me. Fortunately it was only about the last 3 miles of my commute in stop and go traffic and the hub didn't get too hot, but I'm sure the pads are shot, and the caliper is suspect and the likely culprit. It wouldn't be so bad except I just did a complete brake job on this truck including new rotors about a year ago. Using genuine (read expensive) Motorcraft parts. I live too far from work to try and limp home with it this way, so I'll be out in my thin ass dress pants doing a brake job on the right front corner before I can go home tonight. I'll need to get a buddy here to take me to the NAPA so I can buy a new caliper and pads. What size tools do I need to buy while I'm there to do this job? I seem to remember it is pretty easy, and probably comes down to just one size of Allen wrench and something for the brake line and bleeder screw. The bleeder screw I can figure because the new one will have one on it, and I can open it while I'm there, but I don't remember what I need to turn those retaining pins, or get the brake line off. HELP!!!!!

 

[dave186]

If the caliper comes with a bracket, which it should, you will need a 21mm socket and a breaker bar or 1/2 impact to get the bolts loose. be sure to loctite those bolts. I think the bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket are either 13, 14 or 15mm. I have seen the reman calipers come with various sizes. The banjo bolt on the brake line im almost certain is 15mm.

Ive done hundreds of brake jobs, all with reman calipers, on superdutys, its just been a couple years since I quit that job .

 

[sle2115]

What about brake hoses? I've replaced far more hoses causing a caliper to hang up than the caliper itself. Not hard to check, but a very possible cause as well. I've worked on many vehicles that just had brake jobs, including calipers that were hanging up to find the hose to be the culprit. You may have already eliminated this as a possibility, just wanted to throw it out there.

 

[Agnem]

Scott, I've thought about the hose, but to be honest I've yet to see a hose cause this problem for me. I know they can, but I'm hoping thats not it. A reman caliper comes with a bracket? That's news to me. Never seen that either. If it does, I won't be putting it on here. This is an emergency repair so whatever it takes to get me home. It sounds like a 3/8" drive metric socket set will do the job then. That and a can of brake fluid I guess. Figures... I've been driving the Moosestang all week. I thought I'd take the X for a spin today since it was parked where it was likely to get muddy when it rains. I should have left it at home. Thanks for the info!

 

[Zrock]

change the hose while your in thier. Iv seen them colapse internaly several times and look fine from the outside... for the extra few$$ it dosent take any longer to do the job

 

[sle2115]

Scott, I've thought about the hose, but to be honest I've yet to see a hose cause this problem for me.

I've had others say the same, but I've never had a caliper cause it! I guess we all see different things, but I've not had many issues with calipers other than them leaking from bad seals.

99% of the issues I've had with them hanging have been the hose, and I've replaced a bunch of hoses!

 

[OLDBULL8]

Mel: While your at NAPA get one of those plastic disposable painting coveralls, that will keep your dress clothes clean. Just a suggestion. Autozone has the reman or new calipers, reman I think for $65, $42 core last time I got them 2yrs ago. Had to change mine on the F350 up in the Yukon in the rain, had the tools but don't remember what they were. I don't think a 3/8" drive will be strong enough, had to use a wrench 21 or 22mm and a big hammer to get the 2 bolts loose. Good luck.

 

[icanfixall]

For the amount of time and trouble getting into this job I'm with Scott on the brake hose... Its just too easy to replace it now instead of later when you may find its really the problem.... And that might be after you have ruined another set of pads and a caliper..... I call it really cheap insurance....

 

[OLDBULL8]

Just checked Azone on front brake hose, runs anywhere from $22 to $30 depending on 2 WD to 4 WD manual or Auto lock hubs.

 

[Agnem]

OK, well I'm back from NAPA $300 lighter! OUch. They didn't have a 21mm socket, so I'm going to have to leave the bracket on and just swap the caliper. The Bracket very well may be the problem according to the parts counter guy. He says that they cause the problem a lot. I never would have thunk it. The core had a $60 charge, so that will be going back to them soon. I ruled out doing the hose, because I will not have anyone available to help me bleed the brakes, and I can't count on the hose coming off cleanly. I've seen a lot of rusted brake lines in my day, and they will just twist off, so I'm not touching that one until I'm home. The thing I hate most about these deals is it always ends up leaving me less than satisfied with the job that I did, and I end up doing it all over again the right way when I get it home. Double the time! Double the expense!

 

[zpd307]

with a recent brake job, i cant imagine that the caliper would be bad. how were your slide pins looking a year ago? were the pins bores rusty or corroded? they like to freeze up and cause problems. i cant remeber what year your x is, but ford came out with a new pin design because of that problem.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

What about brake hoses? I've replaced far more hoses causing a caliper to hang up than the caliper itself. Not hard to check, but a very possible cause as well. I've worked on many vehicles that just had brake jobs, including calipers that were hanging up to find the hose to be the culprit. You may have already eliminated this as a possibility, just wanted to throw it out there.

I agree with ^^^ and, were I you, I would replace ALL the brake-hoses at the soonest possible.

I can't count the times I have known people to replace a Ford caliper as many as three times for hanging up, when all along the problem was the hose sucking together.


What gets me is how the local mechanics can't seem to pick up on this hose business and they just keep throwing calipers at the problem.


For what it's worth, I prefer custom-built braided stainless hoses; the improvement in braking response and pressure is dramatic.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Right front brake caliper is locking up on me. Fortunately it was only about the last 3 miles of my commute in stop and go traffic and the hub didn't get too hot, but I'm sure the pads are shot, and the caliper is suspect and the likely culprit.

I know all the safety freaks will flame me good for this one , but I am tough-skinned and a poor boy soon has to learn poor boy ways or spend his life in the poor-house.


Taking into consideration that you are a grown man with good sense and you know the situation, here is what I have more than once done and would have done in your situation :

This sort of follows the old WWII adage of coming in on a wing and a prayer.


I would have completely removed the caliper/pad assembly and tossed it in back.

I would have, depending on just what I had available to work with, either PLUGGED that brake-line, or CRIMPED the metal line that feeds it.

I have done this, in the snow, on a remote dairy-farm, East of Horse-Heads New York, and safely brought fifteen big Holstein cows all the way back to Kentucky.

Crimping can be done with anything resembling a ball-pein hammer; the edge of a socket or side of a wrench struck with whatever rock or hammer that is available, just so long as you squish the line together such that it won't leak.

This crimping business is actually easier than it reads and I can do it in the dark, laying in mud.

ON EDIT: There is actually a brake-line crimping device/tool made just for such occassions; my uncle has one; it has a ball-ended press-screw sort of like a C-clamp screw and a matching ball-shaped pocket, straddles the line and presses/crimps a "dimple" in the line.

Of course, the crimped line is now sacrificed and will have to be replaced.

With the offending wheels brake-line now either plugged or crimped, you can finish whatever trip you were on and head back to the house, where you can do a proper repair with proper tools and parts at your own convenience.


You will make it back home safely because you are aware that you are now driving minus one brake, and you are also aware that it will probably pull to one side or the other when you do brake a little too hard.


Many many vehicles pass and meet us on the road every day that are in a lot worse shape and the driver neither knows nor cares; I know because I have reason to see behind their wheels every day and most of what I see is plumb scary ; rotors completely broken loose from their centers and just flopping around within the caliper is a common sight; pads missing the lining; calipers rusted frozen and un-movable.

Most of these people are soccer-mom types with big cell-phone bills and a boyfriend on the side.

A few weeks ago, a guy in a Ford Tempo drove in SCOOTING the locked-up right-rear wheel; he had already worn an almost new tire through the steel belts; the smoke was a-rolling.

Being on a monthly mail-box dividend, and it being the middle of the month, this guy was flat broke.

Half-a-can of P.B.Blaster, a few whacks with a hammer, and a used tire on the credit, and away he went; I doubt he will ever think to come back and pay for it.

These people don't fix these problems because they just stretched their funds to the limits to buy the new tires and before the next cell-phone bill comes due they will have forgotten all about what I told them they need to fix.

 

[Agnem]

Yea I would have considered that if I had had to go a lot futher. But I have NO TOOLS in that truck, which slowly will be remedied because each time it becomes F.O.R.D. (you know... found onthe road dead) and I have to buy tools to fix it, they stay in the truck. I now have a set of metric sockets and a wrench, a breaker bar, a 21mm impact socket and a can of brake fluid. Thanks to everyone for their advice and with your help I was able to buy the right stuff, and do the repair in the parking lot after work. Only took me 40 minutes start to finish, and I didn't get anything but my hands dirty. I still got the same pants on I wore yesterday. I'll be headed back to the NAPA today, to turn in my core, and pick up another calper for the left side. Since the right one came with a bracket, and the left one was Motorcraft using the original bracket, I think I want to match up both sides. I can also tell you that my usual belief that Motorcraft parts are better still holds true. The Motorcraft brake pads come on a lot sooner than the NAPA Premium ones do, which results in a momentary jerk of the wheel to the left in a panic stop. Nailed it hard enough this morning in rush hour traffic that I thought for a minute I was heading into the median. Since the pads I bought yesterday come as a pair, I'll throw the other NAPA pads on the left side to even things up. I will compliment Ford on the design of this caliper, because it is SO EASY to change these things out.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I still got the same pants on I wore yesterday.

Heck, we've got several customers and loafers that are still wearing the same pants and underwear that they were wearing back when Kennedy was shot, and they smell like it too.

The Motorcraft brake pads come on a lot sooner than the NAPA Premium ones do, which results in a momentary jerk of the wheel to the left in a panic stop.

That could also be on account of that bad brake-line that is sucking together and then having to be forced back open.