Need some ideas

[seawalkersee]

I have put new o-rings on the injectors. I can not see any leaks in the lines or the filter head at all. I do not have the water seperator (which is because it is built into the 7.3 filter head).

After it finally gets started (only way is to shoot something down the intake) it will start and run fine. Yesterday I let it run until it got to 190* (for the first time since it has been rebuilt) because I have been fighting it.

Is it possible that the IP is shot inside or something making this hard to start? I have a DB electrical starter so it cranks fast and there is obviously not fuel to it.

Just looking for some suggestions as to why this thing will not keep fuel to the IP (I think that is the problem).

SWS

 

[icanfixall]

If you can try this... Setup a can of fuel that is set above the lift pump. Place the suction in that can and run the motor. Then let it cool down for whatever time it takes for the motor to restart with diffuculty. If it starts fine then the problem is the lift pump check valves or the diaphram has a small leak in it. What condition are your injector o-rings in.... Did you replace the return line kit or just a few parts of it. Its better to replace the entire kit when you try to fix a leak. Saving the caps or lines is not worth the trouble or money saved....

 

[Agnem]

Does it start, then die, or just not start? Start then die is an air leak. No start at all... that's something else altogether.

 

[seawalkersee]

If I spray it, I can get it to start. 99% of the time it will run if it has been started within the last 24 hours. If it has been sitting for more than a day, it will start then die and have to be sprayed again.

If I let it run for a few seconds, it will start and run. Last night, I started it after it had been sitting for 2 or 3 hours. Fired up like a carbed engine on a warm day. Today I went to start it (12ish hours later) and it just cranked. I ran the pump and hit the schrader valve on the filter head and it took a second before it pumped out fuel.

I bought the o-ring kit off of ebay last year. The caps have a definate "click" when I put them on (with new o-rings) and there is no fuel leaking from them. The plunger on the side of the IP (drivers side bottom) is wet, but not leaking. I cleaned it prior to putting it back on and think the IP is most likely the problem. I can't see the pump bleeding off the fuel all the way back from the engine through the return....espicaly since it goes to the bottom of the tank.

I am going to put my old IP back on until after Christmas is over. I THINK all of my problems started after I put the one off of the 7.3 IDIT but it has been so long, I can not rememeber.
SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

Oh, and the caps, lines, o-rings, and injectors were all replaced. The injectors have very few miles on them and are a set of rebuilt e-bay BBs. I pikced up a Rotunda injector tester and will probably start rebuilding the ones that were in it, but hope the IP is the problem.

SWS

 

[towcat]

here's a suggestion....
I have installed clear PVC tubing from the filter bleed port to the plastic return nipple and the fuel return from the IP to the return nipple.
If you have air intrusion, it will be easily seen. if you have a drainback problem, it will be easily seen. I've been told PVC and diesel fuel is a bad idea but the ones in the pic have been installed for the last five years.
hope this helps the diagnosis.

 

[seawalkersee]

Where did you find the clear tube in that size? I know it's small, but what size is it? And which part is the fuel return from the IP? Is that a turbo only thing? Mine goes from the filter head to the first cap on the pass side front. It makes a "U" shape that goes all the way around the engine from the pass front to the driver's front. The return to the tank goes from the drivers rear cap which has two bungs on it. Did I not route something right? Or is that the hard line that goes back to the tank?

SWS

 

[Agnem]

ANY leak from the ip will result in air intrusion. That's the source of your problem right there.

 

[seawalkersee]

Yey....I mean booooo...Its 30ish* here and raining. Just what I wanted to do.

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

Different IP is on. Same IP that the engine originally had (was running with it) with the original lines. I have been cranking for a total of 10min or so between 2-3 days. I popped one of the lines off of the injector and there is nothing. Crank and crank and nothing comes out.

I read the article posted in the tech section (more like skimmed till I got to the intstall part) and there was no answer to a good way to purge it. Should I pull the cap off of the side and try to run it (for the fuel screw)? I am getting direct fuel at the filter head now.

SWS

 

[gonecrazyi]

Crack a couple lines at a time one on each side, while turning it over, until you get a little fuel. Tighten the line down and move to the next one. Once 4 or 5 are bled it should start and force the rest of the air out no problem.

Also check to make sure that the fuel shut off solonoid is working.

 

[seawalkersee]

Never got a response to this thread for some reason. I have not had a chance to work on it yet, but went over to dads house tonight to pull the old IP apart. Flipped over the top and there sits the selonoid and I think to myself...I never heard it click....the one on the bronco seems to be shot now and will not click. So...tomorrow, I am going to go out and check to see if it is powering up.

MEL. I read the article on the IP. There is a definate answer in there about having the rod in the correct place or it will run away. When you pull the top off of the IP, the spring actuated rod should be to the rear of the IP and the lever should go on the front of it correct? Or, does it go in the small cavity in the center of it putting pressure on both sides? I am going to look again to be sure I am on top of my game before doing the swap.

Now, if I can find an O-ring that will fit...

SWS

 

[icanfixall]

While cranking to purge out the trapped air do this at wide open throttle. You wont see any fuel squirting out till the motor runs. Idle throttle will only push a very small amount of fuel and takes forever to purge air...

 

[seawalkersee]

There is nothing at the injectors. I cracked the lines and took them off of the injector. I know it takes a while to purge, but there SHOULD be some fuel coming from at least one of the lines by now. I am going to check today to see if the selonoid is clicking when it is powered up. I think there is nothing when I hit the key, though it does have power to it.

SWS

 

[icanfixall]

The easy way to check the fuel shutoff solenoid is turn the ignition on. Then remove the wire from the pump. Listen and feel for the "click".... If nothing is heard or felt jumper a line from the battery positive to the pump. Feel it again. Now if you feel or hear nothing then the solenoid is shot.... I don't think both pumps will have bad solenoids...