Need Some Advice

[JeffMoss1]

I read Mel's article on static vs dynamic timing. I'd like to get the injection pump timed by a shop, since mel claims that it'll help my mileage...I don't care so much about power, really just my highway mileage.

I called a few shops around and asked if they use a timing meter or by ear. 3 out of 4 said they do it by ear.

The fourth shop said "yeah we have this little thing that we hook up to the engine and do the timing with." And then started to go on and on about how they've been doing this for "blank" amount of years etc etc and I have nothing to worry about.

What do you guys think, should I go with this guy?

It gonna be like $200 he said (i'm gonna take of the engine cover and the passenger seat before I get there to save him some time though).

 

[RLDSL]

Take that money and buy yourself a Ferret pulse adapter and an advance type timing light and do it yourself.
Then you don't have to worry about what goober does once you drop the truck off, and you have the tools for next time.

-------Robert

 

[RLDSL]

Oh...and what the heck does he need the engine cover and passenger seat removed for ???

 

[BROWNIEBOY525]

Oh...and what the heck does he need the engine cover and passenger seat removed for ???

iwas wondering the same thing but then seen he has a van. i would ask the guy if you could watch them or even see the tool that he uses if not i would not let him touch it.

 

[RLDSL]

iwas wondering the same thing but then seen he has a van. i would ask the guy if you could watch them or even see the tool that he uses if not i would not let him touch it.

My bad

 

[RedTruck]

I had mine timed through a local Navistar dealer for $80.

 

[RedTruck]

There could be a reason they charge $200. Do they time it on a wheel dyno? Most places that time that way say it's the only true way to time a diesel.

If not, I'm with Robert. Purchase the equipment and learn to do it yourself.

Paul

 

[JeffMoss1]

Ok...I should clarify...the guy said he'd charge $75/hour and since vans are a pain in the ass to work on it might take a little while. He suggested that I take off the engine cover (on the inside) so that he wouldn't have to. It'd save him some time.

Kinda funny I called the international dealer near me and they were like:

"Uhhhh...yeah we've got that tool...actually I think it's broken...yeah, it's broken, we haven't used that thing in a while..."

By the tone of his voice, I'm pretty sure this guy isn't going to use a wheel dyno.

K, now, what do I need to do it myself? If I get this pulse adapter for the 1/4 inch lines, what else will I need. I don't really know how timing works. Will I use that weird thing that's on the crankshaft pulley? I have a timing light that I got for free from a friend and I also have an engine analyzer thing that has all sorts of diagnostic things that came with it...I've just been using it as a multimeter but it has all sorts of tach, dwell options that I don't understand.

Will that be useful?

Jeff

 

[JeffMoss1]

Just curious, if they were to use a wheel dyno to do the timing would they just look for the max amount of power output at the same throttle position?

That sounds pretty interesting.

Jeff

 

[JwS]

I just did my van with the ferret and timing light, (btw, you'll also need a tach) It is a pain, the pump bolts are tough to get to, you need to pull the engine cover and air cleaner, and kind of crawl in there a bit with a light to reach the passenger side, the other 2 can be reached from the front. To see the mark on the pump takes a little mirror on a stick from the front (you might need a ground down box end wrench, I think 9/16?). Now the timing marks you need to hit with the timing light are down on the front pulley, so you have to kind of look down from the front passenger side and do your best from about 3 feet away.
So you can see it isn't a piece of cake, it may be well worth having it done if you feel like the guys know what they are doing, especially if you don't plan on doing it very often! I personally like to just buy the tool and do it myself.
Jay

 

[RLDSL]

You will need an adjustable advance typ timing light to go with the ferret. Set the advance for 8.5 deg btdc at 2000 rpm.
If you have a tach in the dash, just have a helper hold it at 2000 rpm, if not, you will need an induction driven tach, or a timing light with a tach in it like this
thing.

Timing any van is always a contortionist trick, but, then again, so is doing anything on a van.

 

[JeffMoss1]

OK, sounds like that's the best plan...here's a new question.

When I first got the engine rebuilt...I had to hunt all over the place for a fuel leak that was causing the engine to lose it's prime. I finally found it on the line from the filter to the ip. Replaced the line and when I do glowplugs and ignition...even when it's cold cold, it starts RIGHT up. Doesn't even seem like a full revolution...So nice.

Once its starts though, it spudders a bit and seems like its being starved, if i give it a little throttle, a second or two later it'll start to rev. If I do that for about 5-10 seconds, i can drop it back down and it'll idle perfectly...like nothings wrong. ***?

Does it sound like there's air in there still? It's weird because my old engine used to squeal real loud when there was air in the lines...this one doesn't at all, it just struggles for a few seconds.

 

[RedTruck]

While cranking hold the accelerator to the floor. Once it fires let off the accelerator. This holds the throttle at a higher rpm until the engine gets to temp (120 Deg. F)

It sounds like you're not doing that until after you get it started.

Paul

 

[JeffMoss1]

Yeah, if I do that it certainly helps, but I just thought that I shouldn't HAVE to do that if my engine was working properly.

So you're saying it's just because its cold out that it needs a little help for the first few seconds?

That's fine with me, as long as it sounds normal. I'm gonna take it tomorrow for about a 5 hour round trip, so I was just getting a little worried.

Jeff

 

[RedTruck]

It allows the idle to be set higher. It's normal and it's a good thing. Not only does it prevent the problems you're talking about, but it also allows the oil to build up pressure faster.