Need help with Injection Pump Identification

[Dirtleg]

I received my new to me injection pump on friday. This afternoon I removed the old pump. While moving some of the parts around from the old pump to the new pump (solenoids and TPS) I realized the new pump has a kickdown lever on it where my old pump does not. The truck is a 93 f350 4x4 E4OD.

My instincts tell me the kickdown is for a C6 which would mean this is a 6.9 pump. Am I correct? Is it okay to run it or do I need to get a 7.3 pump.

I need an answer quick as the truck is apart and I need to make some decisions really soon.

If it will help at all I have the numbers off of the pumps.

New pump;
DB2831 4703 J
Serial # 5998714 Manufacturing # 1809121C92

Old pump;
E3 DB2831 5013 J
Serial #7499648 Manufacturing # 1816521C92

Other differences are the size and shape of the fuel inlet manifold on the back of the pump. It is a little longer than the pump I took off. Not much but noticable.

Also my old pump has what appears to be (it's covered by a plastic guard thingy) another adjustment screw on the back of the pump main body set at an angle. The new pump does not have that.

Hoping I can get some idea of what I've got.

If it is the 6.9 pump can I just turn it up to make it work?

 

[85hauler]

The new pump will work. It just not an exact match. Being a DB2831 means it has the .310 plungers which is typically for 7.3s (6.9s used .290) however the 4703 number seems a little early for a 7.3. Anyways it should work just fine.

 

[Dirtleg]

I guess it's kind of a moot point right now as it turns out the throttle shaft is in 2 pieces.

How hard would it be to swap the throttle shaft from the old pump to the new one? I know the cover came off easily enough. It seems it might be difficult to get the shaft by the pump internal mechanism in one piece however.

Not been a good day in the shop today

 

[85hauler]

The "internal mechanism" is the governor. If you remove the governor guide rod (which is screwed in from the outside of the pump) it will give you the room you need to replace the throttle shaft.

 

[Diesel JD]

If you mess with any governor components(even if you don't, really) have a secondary means of shutting off the engine(big hardbound book, solid clipboard or clean piece of plywood to clap over your intake to stop the motor if it decides to try to runaway on you. I would just use the new pump...especially if it has the .31 plungers as indicated. If you want to find out for sure what it is go to the Oregon Fuel Injection website and see what you come up with with that #. http://www.o-f-i.com

 

[Diesel JD]

oh yeah don't mess with that external allen screw...I don't know what it does...my pumps(old and new) both have it... maybe someone else knows what it is.

 

[Dirtleg]

Diesel JD unfortunately the broken shaft is on the new (to me) pump. Here's pics of the carnage.

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I had read somewhere that if you remove the top of the pump and don't put it back on correctly you will get the runaway condition. Unfortunately I don't remember where I read it. What is the critical issue that needs to be done on reassembly? I would assume it would have something to do with the solenoid and lever mounted in the cap.

85hauler thanks for the input I will give it a try as I am down until this is fixed.

 

[85hauler]

When you put the top back on don't just set it on it. You need to slide it on from the front to make sure the solenoid lever properly engages the metering valve linkage. Once it is reassembled apply 12v to the solenoid connection if you here it click then it "should" be assembled correctly.

 

[Dirtleg]

I have a question regarding the pump internals. If I turn the input shaft of my old pump the internals turn with it. On the new pump they do not turn. Is this due to the pump not being primed? I could see where there might be a hydraulic effect from the fuel that would engage the pump. What is the reality here?

I have gotten the throttle shaft out of my old pump and am ready to finish the job but am hesitant due to this new situation. As usual I appreciate the help.

85hauler, it appears that the solenoid that shuts the truck off pushes the metering valve linkage towards the rear of the pump. So as long as the solenoid is in front of the linkage and working it should do the job. I will have a secondary means of shutting it down on hand just in case however.

Here is a video that shows the issue. My old pump is the one that turns.

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[Agnem]

No question about it. The input shaft is snapped. That pump is done.

 

[Dirtleg]

Thanks for the clarification. I won't waste any more time on it.

 

[Diesel JD]

Where'd you get that thing from...if you paid anything for it you should get your money back.... its not even useable as a core... try this for a pump if you need one quickly https://portal.stanadyne.com/warranty/ppt/ppt_region_search_action.cfm
If you're willing to have it down a few more days you could buy from a mail order place. I just bought from a local dealer and so far I am very satisfied. I had my pump in hand that day. IDK if you have a turbo or what you budget is, but if you have some time and money to play with and a turbo, you should at least consider a Moose or Ken's pump.

 

[Dirtleg]

As far as the pump goes everything is taken care of. Nothing to be upset or worry about. In fact just the opposite really.

 

[Diesel JD]

Well that's good...care to elaborate?

 

[Dirtleg]

Lets just say some people really do stand behind the things they say and do. In situations such as this, what would seem from the outside to be a sour experience is turned into a very positive experience. Nuff said.