Make your own like I did. I don't have to worry about fan clutches anymore.
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fan lock brackets by D Franklin, on Flickr
need a fan clutch
- Thread starter space ghost
- Start date
Make your own like I did. I don't have to worry about fan clutches anymore.
Slicknik
Full Access Member
interested in seeing your results , I run a Hayden rt now and the fan does lock up for me but I only have the dummy gauges to go off of. Up a grade loaded (over 3 tons) and egts are 1100 the fan locks right after the “L” on normal
Or machine one out of aluminum, doesn’t seem too hard
Isaac Ristow
Full Access Member
here is my results, I put the motorcraft clutch in before i went camping this weekend and i also messed with the spring before i put it in i **** some tension off the thermal spring so it would lock sooner. My results are good but its cooling down in wisconsin here. ambiant temp was 75 degrees my max ect was 210 but for the most part it hung around 195-205. I never heard the fan full lock in maybe due to the lower ambiant temp, when i was seeing 230-235 i had the hayden clutch and it never locked but ambiant was 85-95 degrees. but I was able to work the truck allot harder on this trip i never had to drop out of 5th on the hills and i was able to push my egt to 1100 for short periods climbing hills without the coolant temp quickly rising or really rising much at all. So far i'm calling the motorcraft clutch a win. btw my camper is 9000lb and my truck is a 84 F250 7.3 studded with a rajay turbo and almost maxed na pump. new copper brass wide short 4 core radiator, new motorcraft thermostat, motorcraft fan clutch, final charge coolant
The new Motorcraft fan clutch in my RV dropped the temps by about 10-15F. The original factory one was weak from age, but not very many miles. I suspect the RV hasn't reached 100k yet since the steering is all still very tight on probably all the original steering linkages and gearbox. It did newer shocks on the front, but not the rear. One shock wasn't connected anymore at the top and was totally compressed in. (!!)
My F250 at probably 250k+ is sloppy as heck even with a rebuilt front end, including the rag joint. Only the gearbox hasn't been replaced with a new one. I did put a junk yard one because the one it had was sloppy AND it leaked. At least the junk yard one doesn't leak.
Your modified motorcraft clutch was a win correct? Would a other brand modified clutch work just as well?
Isaac Ristow
Full Access Member
I'm not sure I'd waste money on a other brand clutch, the hayden I bought from the local auto parts was $150 and it was junk. I bought my motorcraft on ebay for under $70. I'm to the point that if there's a motorcraft version available I'll go the route because motorcraft is fords brand and usually is the most reliable brand for sensors and fan clutches thermostats etc.
Isaac Ristow
Full Access Member
I'll just say I've had good luck replacing the steering box input seal before its allot easier and cheaper too, I'd imagine the pitmitarm seal isn't too hard either just good to know for future reference
Slicknik
Full Access Member
@Isaac Ristow
thanks for the results ,
can you go into detail about how you relieved tension from the thermal spring ? What work you did to decrease the spring load? The videos I’ve seen only clocking the spring to make changes , use an old fan clutch for picture reference perhaps
I haven’t given up on my Hayden just yet.... but next weekend it will be tested going up the grapevine ,
thanks for the results ,
can you go into detail about how you relieved tension from the thermal spring ? What work you did to decrease the spring load? The videos I’ve seen only clocking the spring to make changes , use an old fan clutch for picture reference perhaps
I haven’t given up on my Hayden just yet.... but next weekend it will be tested going up the grapevine ,
Isaac Ristow
Full Access Member
I could go find a old one and make a video on what I did. Basiclly you just bend the spring around where the outer most ring hooks to the clutch to release some tension on the thermal coil spring
I couldn't really see where it was leaking from. The junk yard gearbox was cheaper than constantly buying fluid. It has never leaked a drop, I don't think.
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Slicknik
Full Access Member
@Isaac Ristow
ya I found one site will some detail but how much further did you place your bend from the original bend point ? 1/16” ? 1/8” ?
rt now the fan engagement is between the L and the hot which I can assume is 235-240 and I would like it to engaugr earlier at 210 or at the M/A point of the gauge
(Yes I understand the stock gauge is not reliable or accurate but it works and I’ve had done heat gun testing and know where operating temp is on the dummy gauge when the thermostat opens , ~185F)
ya I found one site will some detail but how much further did you place your bend from the original bend point ? 1/16” ? 1/8” ?
rt now the fan engagement is between the L and the hot which I can assume is 235-240 and I would like it to engaugr earlier at 210 or at the M/A point of the gauge
(Yes I understand the stock gauge is not reliable or accurate but it works and I’ve had done heat gun testing and know where operating temp is on the dummy gauge when the thermostat opens , ~185F)
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Isaac Ristow
Full Access Member
I didn't g very far, its turning to fall here in Wisconsin our ambient temps are dropping so I'll have to wait till next summer to see full lock engagement temp of the clutch
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I know that feeling well. I couldn't believe that I got home last evening and turned on my furnace.
