Talk to whoever supplys your cam for what they recommend
N/A IDI Turbo Conversion
- Thread starter BlueHound
- Start date
Oem? I would go unshimmed as long as your clearances are good
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
The Comp 910's have the installed height printed on the box.
bbjordan
Snow Monkey
It's not about the height, it's about the valve seat pressure.
...well ok, it's about the height too, but you need to meet the minimum valve open & close pressure, or face valve float.
...well ok, it's about the height too, but you need to meet the minimum valve open & close pressure, or face valve float.
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
Yes.
ShadetreeV
Full Access Member
Interesting thought, You got me wondering about boost referencing the lift pump. Searching showed a few quotes for benefits on Db2 pumps, does it really work on these engines?
Sidewinded_idi
Full Access Member
Pointless. The lift pump isn't like a gas fuel pump your thinking of and needing to reference. It doesn't see any resistance with the increase of boost so no point in referencing it. The ip sees the boost pressure but it's negligible compared to the fuel pressure it's making to pop the injectors (1800+ psi)
ShadetreeV
Full Access Member
Well said. Thanks for the input . And apologies for the tangent!
Macrobb
Full Access Member
I put a mechanical fuel pressure gauge on my '93 with the RD2-110; hooked to the stock vacuum sensor spot(aka right after the fuel filter/separator).
I'm pushing about 4.5 PSI at idle, and about 3 at WOT. It's remarkably consistent, within 1 psi. This, to me, is perfect - consistent fuel pressure is key for consistent timing.
Mind you, this is pushing 250 RWHP, more than any stock IP can put out.
Yes, you could do some boost referenced fuel pressure stuff... if you want to mess with the timing. Add more psi = more advanced timing, to a point. It might be useful, if your IP isn't tuned right, or able to be tuned for good timing at full throttle. Otherwise, it's just going to screw things up.
I'd probably only play with that on an experimental rig - take the inlet transfer pump out of the IP, and just control the fuel pressure "manually". Mind you, this pressure would need to be up to 150 psi, which would take a pretty beefy pump.
I'm pushing about 4.5 PSI at idle, and about 3 at WOT. It's remarkably consistent, within 1 psi. This, to me, is perfect - consistent fuel pressure is key for consistent timing.
Mind you, this is pushing 250 RWHP, more than any stock IP can put out.
Yes, you could do some boost referenced fuel pressure stuff... if you want to mess with the timing. Add more psi = more advanced timing, to a point. It might be useful, if your IP isn't tuned right, or able to be tuned for good timing at full throttle. Otherwise, it's just going to screw things up.
I'd probably only play with that on an experimental rig - take the inlet transfer pump out of the IP, and just control the fuel pressure "manually". Mind you, this pressure would need to be up to 150 psi, which would take a pretty beefy pump.
