Now your talking.
Although....Now for the average mortal not much applies. In my lame opinion
Good reply.
Thanks.
Although....Now for the average mortal not much applies. In my lame opinion
Good reply.
Thanks.
My timing retarded
- Thread starter chris142
- Start date
Along these timing lines I have a question to propose. My pump and injectors were both replaced 100k miles ago, from Oregon Fuel Injection. This year I pulled and tested my injectors, 2 were bad and the other 6 were low pressure. So I replaced them, but since then have had a very hard starting issue when the engine is completely cold. Could this be timing or should I look to fuel return? And before anyone asks, no I don't have a meter so I don't know where my timing is at. I took it to a shop who had a broken meter (learned after I got there) so I can't give a baseline.
Rather than hijack this thread, perhaps you start another so it stays clear.
Sorry op.
100 k pump, new inj.
No meter, or returns.....
You have your answer.
Not everyone agrees but common thought is 100k is a good lifespan.
You are most likely running retarded.
Go find a meter, (and a pump imho) .
Sorry op.
100 k pump, new inj.
No meter, or returns.....
You have your answer.
Not everyone agrees but common thought is 100k is a good lifespan.
You are most likely running retarded.
Go find a meter, (and a pump imho) .
Macrobb
Full Access Member
First, there are three types of 'cold start' issues:
1. Cranks and tries to catch, but dies within a few seconds, then requires a bunch of cranking to start - This is air intrusion, typically caused by a failing check valve on the return line of the filter head, leaky olive going into the IP etc.
2. Lots of cranking where it produces white smoke, but doesn't want to fire, then finally catches and runs. This is often glow plugs.
If(on a 7.3), you hear the glow plugs cycling like click-click(dim-bright), click-click,click-click you probably have a dead GP or disconnected plug.
If it's cycling like click...click(dim...bright), click...click, click...click, it's probably OK.
3. Starting rough and smokey, white/gray smoke after starting for more than 2 seconds - usually timing.
One test you can do is disconnect the glow plugs(or main glow plug wire; just keep them from getting hot) and give it a 1/2 second shot of ether into the air cleaner on a cold startup.
If it crank-crank-crank-fires right up, you definitely have a glow plug problem. If it fires then dies, you have air intrusion.
I'd be fixing those issues /first/, then, when they are checked, work on your timing.
I wasn't trying to hijack. I saw timing questions and thought this would help others fighting the same issues. Pump or injector wear adjust timing and it seemed a good place to ask since timing adjustments were being discussed. Apologies to the op, I wasn't wanting a take over. The advice of loosening all the lines is spot on, and it helps to have some form of tube bender to keep the flare ends meeting square. If everything is loose there is a 1/6 to 1/4 turn the pump is capable of making.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Ebay just had a great looking new kent moore j33300 meter for 90 bucks.Others listed ranged from 400 to over 500 bucks. Just the simple line clamp is going to cost us over 100 bucks these days. So I purchased this 90 dollar meter.. don't care if the display is red either because I have pleny of parts if this meter fails...
Update. The starting issue was fuel return related. I did the whole return kit a little over 2 years ago, so it's likely that in reinstalling injectors I damaged a piece and caused an air leak. However timing was retarded with the new injector/old pump setup. So I did have to advance to get back into the range of 8-9* BTDC. Like the op I was closer to 4*.
Two pieces of advice for those doing their own timing. A 3/4" end wrench fits the square block on top of the pump perfectly for rotating, and this Snap-on wrench will allow you easy access to the three nuts holding the pump in place.
Two pieces of advice for those doing their own timing. A 3/4" end wrench fits the square block on top of the pump perfectly for rotating, and this Snap-on wrench will allow you easy access to the three nuts holding the pump in place.
I dont have a square on my pump.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Got a picture of the top of the IP?
I wonder if they stuck a gm db2 on your truck
Ive never heard of a ford db2 not having a square to rotate the pump
Ive never heard of a ford db2 not having a square to rotate the pump
The square was a later addition to the pump line up. There are lots of Ford DB2's running around with out the "wrench lug". Other than convenience, the feature has no benefit, so rebuilding with the existing housing is still the most cost effective option.
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