My New 84 F350 Flatbed; got a problem....

[DieselHilux]

So I bought this from a guy here in Minnesota where I live,

The story I got was that it was the guys fathers truck, (a farmer) and he used it to pull a goose neck trailer.

Well he apparently left straight water in it one year (not good in MN...) and cracked the head(s)?

So it apparently has new heads on it, and new rings.

Also he said the clutch was repaced recently and it has some sort of a more heavy duty transmission in it???
Its got a fixed yoke and what seems to be an un-syncroed Low???

Then the starter took a dump and he left it sitting in a field for 5 years and then passed away, at which point his son inherrited it and sold it to me.

So I bought it for $900 and drove it home, it drove decently good on the hour trip home.


So upon getting it home I started making a list of things tht needed to be replaced and or fixed...

So far I have replaced:

Fuel Tank
Entire Exhaust
Injector return collars and lines
Rubber Fuel Lines
All (8) GP's with Motorcraft ones (OEM)
The GP controller
Lower Rad Hose
All the belts
P/S Pump
Radius Arm Bushings
All (6) Tires
All 3 Brake Flex hoses
Rear Shoes, Wheel Cylinders, Hardware

So that got it running and driving reliabily and so now I have a problem that I need help with:

The passenger exhaust manifold needs to be replaced, the rear most cylinder (7?) was missing a manifold bolt and as a result the damn thing warped and even with a new bolt still leaks.

I tried loosening the bolts but they are so stuck and rusted in there that I dont wanna risk breaking them off in the head, so what is the best way to go about getting the bolts out??

Should I heat the bosses with a torch, or what??

Also the damn Oil Cooler leaks oil where it bolts to the block, is there any way of removing it so that there is a minimal mess?? I know its got coolant and oil in it and that to me screams mess............

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So thats how it sits right now

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Thats where its leaking exhaust from

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New Shoes
BF Goodrich 235 85 R16 Commercial Traction T/A's
Load Range E 10 Ply

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New Radius Arm Bushings, I ground off those damn rivets and replaced them with grade 8 7/16th Flange bolts and nuts.

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Shiny new exhaust

 

[icanfixall]

The exhaust manifolds are easy to find on ebay all the time... New will cost around 75 to 80 dollars. Too bad the drivers side isn't the leaking side. Then all you do is remove it and the oil cooler comes out really easy. Otherwise the oil cooler is a tuff messy job to get out... Sorry. About removing the manifold bolts. First of all these are special bolts and usually only ford or international sells them. They aren't just a plain old 3/8 thread bolt. They have an interferance cut thread so they go in hard and stay in tight. Buy some Areokroil from Kano Labs. They have a web site. Its the best penatrating oil you can buy anywhere. Buy two cans and if you don't like it send back the unused can and keep the used can... You will not be sending anything back. Spray the bolts well. Warm up the truck and let it cool down. Do this several times. Even drive it but continue to spray the kroil on the bolts. It will creep into the bolts as the system cools down. Do this 2.3 or 4 times. Then the bolts will back right out.

 

[Brimmstone]

When I redid the engine in my 87 I chased all my threads with a good tap and used 3/8 grade 8 bolts with lock washers. They hadn't loosened up to the point where the exhaust valve burnt but I can handle going in and tightening them every once in a while if they do.

If you need manifolds I have a set on my spare set of head in the garage. You can have them for the shipping to you. It might be high since as I remember they are kinda hefty.

 

[Fordman75]

I came really close to calling on that truck a few weeks ago. But I decided I didn't really need 2 duallies. Looks like you got a good truck.

 

[gandalf]

I just checked the Kano Labs website. It's still there, and the Aerokroil is very prominent. I've heard high praise for this product. The only downside I've ever heard is the price. It's expensive, but it does work.

Kano Labs

 

[RLDSL]

Definitely get some kroil and go after it, those manifold bolts will come out. They are a prevailing torque bolt and have a lot of resistance. Replace them with regular grade 8 bolts and locktite and make sure to check the manual for the correct torque spec, it lists 2 separete torque specs, one for the prevailing torque bolts and one for standard replacement grade 8 bolts. The grade 8 one is much less if I recall as it requires much less to crank them down

 

[DieselHilux]

I came really close to calling on that truck a few weeks ago. But I decided I didn't really need 2 duallies. Looks like you got a good truck.

Lol its a small world we live in

Seems like its a good truck so far with the exception of the cab being rotten, but as soon as I find a good cab I will do a cab swap.

 

[Fordman75]

Lol its a small world we live in

Seems like its a good truck so far with the exception of the cab being rotten, but as soon as I find a good cab I will do a cab swap.

Yep, it's a small world.

In Minnesota the cab rot just comes with the territory. It's pretty difficult to find a truck that age that doesn't have the rusty cab.

 

[DieselHilux]

Well I will try and find one that is not quite as far gone as mine is lol..........

What year cabs will interchange with my 84????????

 

[Brimmstone]

I believe 86 was the cutoff year when they changed the body style

 

[Fordman75]

Well I will try and find one that is not quite as far gone as mine is lol..........

What year cabs will interchange with my 84????????

80-86 is a direct bolt on as far as the bare cab. A direct diesel replacement would be 83-86. I believe any 80-96 cab will bolt on but there are differences in the newer body styles.